XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ever!

Bought 1980 XJ650G 30,000 Miles Very Clean Unmolested Machine, Until Now..
Description when I bought it from a guy that has repaired and sold over 300 bikes, "Bogs down when you give it throttle" He said he cleaned carbs still did not help....Puzzled Look On His Face
THEN I BOUGHT ITStarted For 1 minute)
I can drive it 3-6 minutes
New/Cleaned Plugs it fires right up, hop on it, balls to the wall for about 3- 7 minutes then it starts to quickly lose throttle response (as cylinders foul out) until it is barely sputtering then dies,I pull plugs and they are all SUPER SOOTY won't even fire at all..

FACTS I KNOW
I've Cleaned The Carbs 5 Times Spotless, Perfect, Enrichment Circuts Were plugged thats it, now flowing like a champ, cleanest carbs Ive ever seen seriously,
No Boring Out Of Emulsion Tube From Needle, tube is shiny clean
Clunk Test Perfect
New Float Needles And Seats
Wet Set Float Height (Quadruple Checked)
New Air Pilot O Rings (Had caps over them)
New Battery
New Gas Tank Old One Was Rusty Inside
Jets are in correct spots Checked 3 times
Test And Shortened Caps, Got No Resistor Plugs
Cleaned Electrical Connections
Triple Bench Synced the Carbs

I've set the carbs anywhere from 1.5 to 3 turns out, still does it?
Im starting to think it is not in the carbs, like I said

If I pull the plugs and lay them on the block grounded sometimes it has a bright snapping spark other times seems weak, also they will let out a random spark outta nowhere after you shut it down?

Is It Possible To Have A Electrical Problem, Heat Related Like this?

So after 80 Hours And the last carb double checking, with new plugs it idled so smooth and ran PERFECT for about 7 minutes then plugs toatally fouled out again, now nothing but shit in my life again, cleaning plugs barely helps this problem which I find odd?

I Think Its Some Kind Of Random Weak Coil Problem, At This Point..
All I Know Is, Im About To Blow A Hole In It With A .44 Magnum..

Please Help

I Have Spent At least 80 Hours On This Bastard

Im A Experienced Mechanic, Not Full Retard...
Lay it On Me

VALVES THE ONE THING I HAVE NOT YET CHECKED, Is This the Problem?

Once Again Please Help this Is the Only Thing In My Life To This Point I Have Not Been Able to Fix Myself....Its Killing Me, My Girlfriend A Is Starting To Dislike Me Cause Of This Bike...Kidding Just Kidding
8O

 

the carbs cant operate properly if the valve shims aren't in spec.

Also, test your primary and secondary resistance on the coils.

 

I have had similar problems before. My first suggestion is to replace the main and pilot jets if they are not OEM. The reason is that aftermarket jets are not usually identical to the OEM . All my bikes have Mikuni carbs and only genuine Mikuni jets preform well in them. Other jets will work but they cause mixture problems.
Seems like you have checked most all other possibilities except valve adjustments. I can also see that a broken petcock diaphragm would suck fuel and cause your problems, check that also.

 

Valve adjustment. As the bike warms up, the valve clearances will get tighter. If the clearance is too tight, they won't close fully. You'll burn a valve if you run it like that (if they aren't burned already). Valves wear into the seat, reducing clearance.

Check the clearances, get them in-spec. As an experienced mechanic, it'll be a breeze. BigFitz52 has an excellent write up on it. It can cause all of your problems.

Once you get the valves in spec, check the compression. If you've already burned a valve (or have issues with the rings) you'll have more work ahead of you. But get the valves in spec before checking the compression, as an out-of-spec or burned valve will drop your compression.

If the compression tests good, expect to redo the carb sync and mixture, as out-of-spec valves will throw these off.

 

Re: XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ev

Thank You For Your Replies,
Tonight I Will test The Coils, I Did Check the PLugs Going To The Coild And While Turning Over The Voltage Fluctuates Like It Should..
I Will Check Valve Clearances!
Jets Are Stock Sizes , Couple Of The Main Jets Flathead Slots Are Messed Up But The Bowl And Hole In Them Is Unscathed, Captain Torque must have done this shorty before I bought it, still shiny copper from his screwdriver marring it up...

 

Re: XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ev

Thank You Manbot , I just rechecked the compression tonight , 147-153 on all cylinders! Its Valve Time...

 

High 140's and Low 150's is great compression.

In all those times you did the Carbs, ... did you check the Jets to be absolutely sure your Carbs have the correct Jets and have not been altered by the PO.

 

Valve adjustment is a important part of a healthy running XJ motor but out of spec valves won't cause a set of plugs to be carbon fouled In 5 minutes. You have some carb issues to attend to. For some reason you are getting way too much fuel. Float level, slide operation, jet size are all related. I know you have checked them but something is out of wack.
Is the air filter clean and no obstruction in the air box? I have seen a few bikes with rats nest built in the air intakes. A plugged exhaust can also foul plugs.
Check that vacuum fuel valve diaphragm, it might be leaking.

 

Glad someone else is thinking jets Rick, that's my first thought. Its hard to tell if they have been modified just by looking. Most people don't have the tools to accurately measure the orfice hole Easier to replace them and be 100% sure they are the right size

 

Ok Just Got Back From Checking Coils All Leads From TCI Check Out, Primary Coils Check Out At 2.5 Ohms

CHECKED MY VALVES!

#1 E .008 (.203) I .004 (.102)

#2 E.007 (.178) I .004 (.102)

#3 E.006 (.152) I .005 (.127)

#4 e.007(.178) I .004(.102)


SHOULD BE
Intake .11-.15 mm
Exhaust.16-.20 mm

So my valves are a bit tight, would this really kill the bike like that?

All 4 plugs foul equally perfect pitch black soot..
I Checked all Jet sizes, where all stock and 5 times checked the jet placement< I can tell you off the top of my head where they go Ive checked so many times...
Main Fuel Large, Pilot Fuel Small,
Main Air Small, Pilot Air big Small Air Next To Mounting Plate Bolt Hole? Right? Thats just off the top of my head, If I take carbs off for the 10th time ill post pics....

I am the third owner that I know of that couldnt get this bike going...

Could My 1980 Carbs Jets just have super course threads on the mixture needles? They Seem Chunky? Has anyone seen that?

 

How did you check them? if all you did is look at the number on them that's no guarantee they're right

Some people drill jets, it could have been done to yours by a previous owner

Stock airbox or pods?

 

Everything is bone stock, bone, bone ,very well taken care of too not one stick bolt on the thing. I read the numbers on them inspected them, triple checked placement per xjforums, the jets and emulsion tube where all good, clean no clogging, I polished up the tubes, needles, clunk tested, enrichment circuits were plugged on all 4, checked diaphragms perfect. enrichment valves polished and cleaned, new float needles and seats, polished part on float needle hangs on, floats are the right side up, measured all float height w MM ruler and then wet set floats. I did have one main needle or what ever that thing is that goes into the emulsion tube stuck up inside of itself a bit, so i disassembled that and got it functioning again that was 3 weeks ago..Almost everything I listed about Ive done 4
times at least, Not even Kidding..I'll race anybody at putting a set of the boots back in...
Another question I ask is. If the petcock was restricting the fuel it would be revving higher as the fuel ran out right? Opposite of my problem? Cause on prime the petcock pours gas out but on the other two it just pump pumps it out lightly at idle?(petcock works if i put steady vacuum to it)

 

The guy that I bought it from was a 60 year old man who bought it when he spotted it in a garage he was driving past, he said the guy was also about his age, 350 Bucks....BAM I purchased a little piece of evil....

 

Re: XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ev

Sure hope you find the answer cos I am in exactly the same boat with my XJ550!

Also doing my nut but fortunately in the UK I can't get my hands on a gun

 

Go back and re-wet check the floats; and do a good bench sync.

You're going to need to do a vacuum sync; BUT FIRST THINGS FIRST:

 

I have seen this same problem several times before. Same symptons caused by jets being the wrong size either by the PO drilling or aftermarket ones with the wrong size orifice.
I believe you bike has Mikuni carbs. There are 3 styles of pilot jets that will fit but only one will provide the correct mixture. The VM and BS style jets have the metering orifice in different positions and they will NOT preform the same. If you have the wrong one your bike will run super rich and foul plugs.
Here is a pic of the pilots.
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-39.html#products

Get the valves in spec with proper jets and you will have a happy bike.

 

I know you said that your jets are stamped the right size. This chart is for drilling jets, but you can also use it to measure your jets.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=28026.html


Just chill out, you'll get this.....

 

It has the Hitachi HSC32 its stamped on them with a stamp (thats how clean they still are) My pilot jets are little needles , with the tiny tip still on them, They had the brass caps over them when I got it...I'll pull the carbs again, I don't think you guys realize I really spent 80 hours and really have pulled the carbs 10 times, I feel like I'm wasting my time doing it ...I'll post some pics of the carbs...never once has a single thing Ive found wrong with the carbs even slightly affected how it ran, Now I know everyone on here says carbs carbs carbs, Thats the basis I went by, but I even wet Checked the floats 4 times off the bike. I assume you think I'm missing something and it seams like I am but I meticulously went through everything as per the church of clean...I repair electronics I know how Important It is to be meticulous...

I will pull the carbs again maybe tonight for pics,
right now I have the top off for valves, looks like I need to start
shimming....

 

My bike has the same problem according to my bf. He keeps insisting that it's burning oil and fouling the plugs that way. I told him he may be wrong. I took the plugs out when I pulled it out of storage and sure enough they were fouled but it doesn't look like oil really. Looks more like it's burning something else. Thanks for all the info! That and the stuff I got off the list will be very helpful when I start working on it this week!!!

 

Air filter not blocked?

 

Take the cover off of the ignition pickup coils. And the left side cover over the TCi.
Maybe a little cooling there might be a clue.

 

Re: XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ev

okay so I pulled the carbs out again, pulled all of the Jets out and.........get ready for this SHlT...

 

The four main fuel jets were obviously drilled out by rainman, I wish I could show you the pics, I took a drill bit roughly the size of the hole in the main fuel Jet and put it through it its drilled out crooked as hell I mean bad.Also the bottoms of the larger of the two air jets look like someone deburred them a bit with a bit, would this seem like one air jet someone would mess with as well? I'm assuming the factory wouldn't do a noticeable deburring job like that? So I gotta get new jets and I'll let you know the verdict...Thank you so much for your help....

 

You still have to GET YOUR VALVE CLEARANCES IN SPEC.

Ignoring it or pretending it doesn't matter won't make the requirement go away. The valves need to be in spec to properly sync the carbs. Until they are, you won't be able to get the bike running properly, even with the correct jets.

 

Sooty carbon fouled plugs are caused by incomplete combustion, which can be a symptom of a way too-rich OR a way too-lean situation. Additionally, an engine which has not had the valves adjusted and/or not in synch is basically impossible to diagnose properly, and will leave you chasing your tail trying to diagnose/remedy:



RICH, LEAN, or possibly even ritually UNCLEAN or OBSCENE: THE CARB REBUILDING FAQ:

Let us begin by warning you, though: an engine that is out of synch may perform AS IF it has a lean, or a rich, or a hanging idle, or a no-idle, or a run-away idle, or any variety of different conditions------if your engine (carbs) have not been synched, then that at is the #1 issue that you should attend to first, before you even READ any of the guidelines below and go and try to adjust and fiddle with things and change settings THAT AREN'T THE CAUSE OF THE REAL PROBLEM!!


Question #1: Why Isn't It Running Right?:

Below is a semi-useful "general rules-of-thumb" list to help you recognize and diagnose fuel-mixture problems.

All of these descriptions assume that the carburetors are cleaned and operating properly, are stock (no jet kit), the valves are adjusted properly, and the engine has been synched.

If any of the above procedures, tasks, actions, or activities have NOT been checked or performed, then do them first, or otherwise all your other efforts will barely even give you "casino odds" at striking it rich and determining what the real cause(s) of your symptoms are......



Typical Symptoms of a Lean Fuel-Mixture Condition:

- Poor acceleration; the engine feels flat.

- The engine won't respond when the throttle is snapped open, but it picks up speed as the throttle is closed. (A too-large main jet also mimics this symptom.)

- Idle speed falls after you blip the throttle, then creeps back up.

- The engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats.

- A lean pilot circuit condition can be responsible for a creeping or hanging high idle, where the rpms stay high then slowly drop down to the set point.

- The engine surges or hunts when cruising at part-throttle.

- Popping or spitting through the carb occurs when the throttle is opened. Or popping and spitting occurs through the pipe on deceleration with a closed throttle.

- The engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool.

- Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed.

- Fuel levels that are too low will cause a lean condition.

- In cases where an overly lean fuel condition is suspected, the application of a small amount of "choke" may decrease or eliminate the symptoms.



Typical Symptoms of a Rich Fuel-Mixture Condition:

- Engine acceleration is flat and uneven and loses that "crisp" feel.

- The engine "eight-strokes" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles.

- The engine's idle is rough or lumpy, and the engine won't return to idle without "blipping" the throttle.

- An overly rich pilot mixture is usually the culprit when the idle drops low then slowly recovers.

- The throttle needs to be open continuously to maintain acceleration.

- Black, sooty plugs, a sooty exhaust pipe and black smoke from the tailpipe that stinks of unburned fuel.

- Poor fuel economy.

- The engine works better when cold. Performance falls off as it warms up or the ambient temperature rises.

- Engine performance improves when the air cleaner is removed.

- Fuel levels that are too high will cause a rich condition, as will a choke system that is slightly hung open or has leaky plunger valves.




Some common causes of a high idle:

- A lean air-fuel mixture condition, which can be caused by a variety of problems......vacuum leaks, plugged or too-small fuel jets, etc. Old or "stale" gas may also cause a lean fuel-air mixture to occur temporarily (until the fuel is used up!).

- A vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system.....intake boots, internal o-ring seals, etc.

- Mixture screws not properly set or adjusted.

- Vacuum piston sticking or stuck in a partially raised position.

- Idle speed screw set too high, or set to create a "proper" idle speed when the engine was cold (and thus results in a "high idle" once the engine reaches operating temps). The idle speed when the engine is cold should be modulated via the use of the choke (enrichment) control system.

- Butterfly valves opened too far; synch screws out of adjustment.

- Throttle cable wear, adjustment, or throttle lever brackets installed incorrectly or interfering with other nearby objects (cylinder head fins, etc.).

- Choke (enrichment) circuit is stuck "open"....this can occur even if the choke lever is rotated to the fully closed position, if for some reasons the choke plungers are not fully closing (cable wear, cable adjustment, bent finger brackets, or installation problems). In addition, even if the choke plungers are "closing" fully, if the choke plunger valve face or its seat are worn or scarred, this will allow fuel to leak part the plunger and richen the mixture even if the plungers are closed.



Why your engine seems to be schizoid:

A hanging idle---one that stays high and slowly comes down when decelerating---is a sign of lean mixture. The opposite case, where the idle drops dangerously low then rises, is a sign of rich mixture.

A bike that runs better when hot is probably lean, and a bike that runs better when cold is probably rich.

But sometimes a bike that can be adjusted "just right" when cool, but actually starts exhibiting signs of running lean (hanging idle) as it warms up. And if the idle speed is then re-adjusted while the engine is warm, but eventually falls and the bike dies (especially when sitting at a stop light). Or if the pilot screws are adjusted, then it's too rich when cold---all in direct contradiction of the above observations.

Experience shows that this is a sign of worn throttle shaft seals.....the aluminum carb bodies expand with the heat, but the steel throttle shafts---resting comfortably in a nice cool airflow---don't heat up and therefore don't expand. Once the shaft seals get old and hard, they no longer are able to flex and fill the gap.....so the carb starts drawing air around the shafts, leaning it out.



Why does my engine sometimes backfire when I first turn on the key (without attempting to start the engine)?:

- When you kill the engine, the intakes will still have some remaining (un-burned) air-fuel mixture remaining in them. Upon powering up the bike (turning the key on), the ignition system will apply 12 volts to the coils, thus charging them. Of course, that constant current is not good for the coils, so few seconds later (if the engine is not started) the TCI shuts down the coils by grounding them (to protect the coils from overheating) which cuts the current to the coils and thus triggers a spark to the plugs. If there is enough un-burned fuel in the intake manifolds or the combustion chambers, and if the valves are held open by the camshafts, a backfire thru the exhaust header and/or thru the intake manifolds/carbs/airbox can result.



Why are my plugs carbon-fouled (dry, sooty black deposits)?:

- Carbon fouling is the result of incomplete combustion----for any reason. It is most often associated with an overly rich fuel mixture (whatever the cause), but can also be caused by an overly lean fuel mixture (or poor spark, etc.) In a lean-mixture condition, most of the un-burnt mixture gets pumped out the tailpipe, but some fuel droplets remain in the cylinder and add themselves to the next intake charge. That's not a very precise way of metering the mixture, so when it's finally rich enough for a spark to ignite, that particular charge may be too rich, resulting in incomplete combustion and plug fouling. So carbon-fouled plugs can be due to rich or lean conditions.......your Colortune spark plug will tell you for sure. If you have a light blue or white-ish flame, intermittent flame, and/or intermittent flashes of yellow within an otherwise white-ish flame, then your fuel mixture is too lean.

And by the way.........if the spark that happens to ignite this overly-rich mixture is the "wasted spark" (which occurs in each cylinder at the top of the exhaust stroke, it will occur JUST AS THE INTAKE VALVE IS OPENING ---- so the backfire pressure wave may be directed back up the intake tract!



Why are my plugs oil-fouled (wet, oily black deposits)?:

- worn or broken piston rings, excessive wear or damage to cylinders, *leaking intake valve stem seals.

* while bluish smoke from the exhaust can be caused by worn exhaust valve seals, that situation will not foul your spark plugs. Consider what happens: oil pools above the valve guides, and coats the valve stems every time they rise. These stem "seals" really aren't seals, they are more like wipers, and their function is mainly to wipe off the excess oil from the valve stem. Now, when these stem seals get old and hard, they leave an excess amount of oil on the valve stem, which then drops down into the path of the exhaust gas flow as the valve opens and the oil is evaporated off, leaving blue smoke from the exhaust. But note that none of that oil ever enters the combustion chamber, so it can't foul the plugs.

Of course, any excessive oil coating an intake valve stem will end up going through the cylinder, but intake valve stem seals rarely fail on these engines. Unlike the exhaust valves, which are constantly baked by superheated exhaust gas, the intake valves are bathed in cool and moist (with gasoline) air.



Why is the inside of my carbs covered with a brownish-green goo?:

When fuel mixes with water and sits around for a while, this is the result. Nasty looking, nasty smelling, and you can bet that the tiny passages inside the carb body are plugged solid with this stuff! Definitely time for a full rebuild.......

 

Re: XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ev

Bigfitz as soon as I can afford the "TOOL" I will check valve shims and re-shim them.. I know this has to be done and I plan on taking care of it asap...Thanks :wink:

 

You don't need the tool to check them.

(I paid $12 for mine.) Plus there are alternatives.

 

If you have zip ties or some 12-2.... you don't need "the tool" personally I hate it +I couldn't get it to work. Others swear by it.....

 

That's a great post Chacal, many thanks for that!

If you are confident about your valve clearances, and your carb cleaning, you have and intend to keep pods and non standard exhaust, you have upjetted but are sooting up badly.....

Given that sooting up badly can be a result of lean or rich mixtures and I don't have a reliable base point to head for re the jet sizes, would now be a good time to get the bike dyno tested to see if I am running rich or lean?

Appologies for piggy backing this post, it's just that there is such a big overlap with my issues.

 

My thoughts on this..... if you are able to, switch back to stock everything..... get yourself tuned nicely, then you have a known good baseline for your modding adventure

 

I can certainly go back to stock jets and needle position but the bike has been hard tailed and standard airbox and exhaust is not an option for me. I think I will go back to standard jets and needle position anyway and then dyno it, gives me an excuse to have the carbs off again, havn't done it this week and getting withdrawal symptoms!

 

Pulled the carbs 10 times, spent. 80 hrs on them and never noticed the jets were obviously drilled:..........ok

 

I bet those carbs are pretty shiny on the outside!

 

Spent 80 hours on the carbs and still won't even check his valve clearances... 8O

 

Fitz - some people just dont get it.... He asked, the answer is been given to him, not our problem anymore....

 

He checked his valves; post on the first page. He just has to get them in spec before trying to sync anything. I think he's on track.

 

Missed that on the re-read, sorry.

He's got 3 out of 4 intakes plus one exhaust valve running tight. You're right; just needs to get 'em in spec to be able to sync.

 

Dino-ing a Normally Aspirated antique with very-basic CV Carbs is a waste of time and money.

The only real adjustment is IDLE and Supplementary Richness.
The Timing is FIXED.
There is NO adjustment to the Ignitor.
NO Fuel Injection Duty Cycle Frequency to re-program.

Hit the Road..
Plug Chop.
Have someone follow you with Tools, gloves and extra Plugs.

Not to rain on you parade, ... though:

Fine-tuning CV Carbs for Pods is a formidable challenge.
Despite what has been suggested, written and formulated, ... there are problems --> Decades Old <-- which are still unresolved and subject to eternal experimentation.

You are proceeding down the Yellow Brick Road following scores of others who have ventured down the well-beaten path without arriving at Oz and never meeting the Wizard.

If I were in your shoes, ...
I'd reinstall an Airbox and Boots.
Achieve a state of excellent Fine-Tuning with the stock set-up, ... FIRST.

Then, ... experiment.
You'll have somewhere to return to if you cant dial-in those Pods.

 

You sound like a person who hasn't ever used one

A good dyno operator and afr will put you spot on with jetting,needles and pilots across the whole range in a fraction of the time you'll waste doing plug chops

 

I would just like to pop in and let you POLOCK know that 80 Hours would be an understatement Im sure (most of it wasted obviously).. But the tops and bottoms of the main fuel jet holes look fine, but put a bit through them and you can see the holes are drilled crooked maybe 2-3 degrees off of pitch , not oblong holes just crooked, thus giving away that , Rainman was in fact hired to drill these, and triggering in my head "The last thing I need to fix it" once again!! OK So assuming this is the golden key to my problem, you would think whom ever did this to the bike killed its ability to run , Ever Again, for more than 5 minutes, Knowing this don't you think he would have reversed the damage he did, I mean he did not even take out the pilot screw brass plugs to do a carb adjustment after the drilling.
As far as the valves go, As vital as they are to the operation of a bike, I have never seen anything in my life not run more than 5 minutes cause of a valve adjustment (with good compression), on the same hand I know it plays a vital part of how efficiently the engine functions, and reacts to changes elsewhere.

I appreciate all you guys have done for me, I cannot list all of, but I know the elite crew stepped up to help me, I appreciate it guys, you do alot for the XJ's..and there owners..

I'm working on putting in my order for new main fuel and pilot air jets as we speak...With your supporting vendor Len...

Please read all the posts before you flame me..

I'm gonna post after its fixed...I'm not gonna be that guy...

See You Later...
TIM KLOSINSKI
(25% Polish)

This ain't over till the "Fat Lady" sings....
This XJ is the "Fat Lady"...

 

Pay the money.
Put the Bike on a Dino.
Start it.
Run it up.
Now that you have it wide-open; you get the results of a "Pull Test"
Just exactly what are you going to do besides tweaking the Pilot Mixture Jets.
Nothing!
"You're going to have to rejet!"

You can't Advance or Retard the Spark.
You can't remap any Electronic Control Module.
There's no place to install a Performance Improvement Chip.
There's no "Plug-'n-play" anythings to swap.

So, ... NOW you're back to GO without collecting 200-dollars.

You'll pay $250 ~ $300 dollars to hear DynoMan say:

"You're going to have to re-jet!"
"You're going to have to re-jet!"
"You're going to have to re-jet!"

That's all you get.
That's all she wrote!

 

I wonder how much time that $250-300 would have saved the OP

At our charge out rate for 80 hours about $5000

I can do it either way but given the choice I'll pay the money and use a dyno anytime, faster results, make changes there and then and repeat

A plug chop while ballpark is still only best guess

 

Valve denial. Gotta love it.

While you're waiting for the magic carb parts; how about you get your valve clearances in spec? SO CARB TUNING MAKES SENSE?

 

Re: XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ev

Wow what a bunch of dicks, I basically lost all respect for you guys in a couple of posts....

1 I did not spend 80 hours on the carbs alone... Where the f*** did you get that? Did I say I Spent 80 Hours On The Carbs Alone?


2 Theres two totally separate conversations going on and I wasn't the one That pissed off Rick, But Im the one you guys obviously think did, Why?


Why don't you dumbass' get your shit together, like I f@cking said and figure out who the f@ck your pissed at....typical brainless internet muscle move there boys...


The f***ing Dyno post has absolutely nothing to do with me, I didnt piss anyone off, so f*** you...


So than to the guy that hijacked my post and got everyone pissed off at me for some reason f@ck you too....

get back to f@cking reality...

Girlfriends quote "Wow.... People Are So God Damn Stupid"...

 

I don't think anyone is mad at you; they all just want your to understand why it is that you bike isn't running correctly even after all the work you've done. Fixing what has been screwed up by a PO takes a methodical approach. The advice you've been given comes from people who have been in your position, and have successfully recommissioned their XJs.

 

Well, I guess Spiderface will not be getting quick repsonses anymore to his posts......I am sure this guy will stop using this alias & will reappear under some new name.....

Spiderface, you need to get an attitude adjustment & your girlfriend too....or just get a new girlfriend.....

This guy is getting nasty after 12 posts.....let's forget about this guy......

 

Here are the posts you put up before I said a negative word....

POLOCK="Pulled the carbs 10 times, spent. 80 hrs on them and never noticed the jets were obviously drilled:..........ok"
Insult


jmilliken+"I bet those carbs are pretty shiny on the outside!"
Insult

Bigfitz+
"Spent 80 hours on the carbs and still won't even check his valve clearances... "
Insult

jmilliken
"Fitz - some people just dont get it.... He asked, the answer is been given to him, not our problem anymore...."

This last one was even after I had thanked everyone...

Every post taking a stab at me...

Thats why I posted that..

Someone got pissed at me thinking I was fussing when it was the other guy arguing abouth a dyno or some shit...

 

Spiderface, you must be rather thin-skinned......every one of these guys that you mentioned is here to help.......not to make you feel like you are an idiot....they offer free advice with a twist of humor.....don't be so sensitive to their answers.....it is all in fun.....relax......

These are great bikes worthy of restoring but takes time & patience that some people just don't have.......

Sometimes, you just have to put up with sarcastic answers......Sarcasm......it is way of dealing with all the bull&^*t in the world.

Welcome to XJBikes......& let's move forward.....

 

Re: XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ev

spiderface this is why i thought you spent 80 hrs on the carbs.

"They had the brass caps over them when I got it...I'll pull the carbs again, I don't think you guys realize I really spent 80 hours and really have pulled the carbs 10 times, I feel like I'm wasting my time doing it "

if i misinterpreted that i'am truly sorry. heres some other true things.
i don't care that you might need glasses.
i don't care that you have no respect for me
i don't care that you can put f@ck in almost every line of your post.
i don't care if your bike ever runs
i care even less what your girlfriend thinks

 

Re: XJ HELL!! Fouls Plugs, Can't Ride More Than 5 Minutes Ev

Same reason I thought he had, before he said that 3-4 of us had said the check the jets and make sure they hadn't been dicked with

Anyway hopefully now with the right jets in it'll be sweet,problem solved and back to being one big happy XJ loving family :wink: