Blowing my 10a fuse with the turn of the key - WTF?!

My 1985 700 went out recently on an off ramp. Walked it over to a parking lot where I roll started it.and it died again shortly after, giving me dead battery symptoms ie dim headlight, dim neutral light, click click click BS. Finally got it home in my truck and started with what I know: cleaned the carbs - easy, needed to be done soon anyway; refill and charge the battery - distilled water, 1a slow charger. Still nothing! Got a little crazy: pulled the whole harness, cleaned all the connectors with electrical contact cleaner and put a bit of dielectricc grease in all the female ends. Now I have power to the lights and horns but no turnover. Jumped the solenoid and got like half a turn and some smoke from the starter - haven't tried that again since! Then I found that the 10a fuse was blown so I replaced it. Blew it again, right when I turn the key?! I'm running out of fuses and sanity. I need help, TONIGHT, these are my only wheels for a while!

Nevarez.ja@Gmail.com
FASTER!!!

 

Not familiar with that bike's fusebox. Is it blade or tube style? I assume the latter.

 

Blades behind the indicator lights, tube behind the battery. It's the 10 amp blade that keeps popping.

 

You have a dead short somewhere in that loop or something that draws current to do 'it's thing' is bound up and therefore drawing way too much current for that fuse. Since there are very few things on an XJ which can do the latter especially at only 'key on' (but many on cars like actuators and motors), I'd vote for the short. Using a wiring diagram you'll need to trace those wires to find the short, could just be a pinched + wire somewhere. Also are you sure you got everything wired back in to it's original mate? Does everything else work wiring wise (ie blinkers, horn, etc.)?

My rule with working on wires is to have something nearby besides my bike or anything else I care about for that matter to break when things go wrong-I'm always sure I will feel the need to release some pissed-off-ed-ness when doing the wire rodeo! Seriously though you must step back, breath, drink a brew if it helps, and then just be methodical and patient-you will find the offending situation that way.

 

probably a wire rubbed bare inside the headlight bucket.

daveF

 

Just cleared the bucket...I am positive that I put it all back together properly - it really only goes one way! I'm all out of beer and I don't have anything I can afford to break, but good ideas haha!

 

So it's not quite the turn of the key...it's the flip of the ignition switch. Looking at the schematics, that narrows it down to the switch, diode and TCI. Diode just checked out with flying colors. I'll TS the switch tomorrow, that's easy. I can't find anything about testing the TCI...anyone? Beuller?

 

Could be wrong but I'm pretty sure the only way to test it is to swap in a known good one. They are somewhat expensive and sometimes hard to find. I know there's a guy that fixes them for the FZR's, only charges for shipping if it's a lost cause. If you find out it's the TCI (although I thought it was a CDI on XJ's, on my phone and can't double check) I can get his info for ya, he might be able to help...

 

I suspect starter motor...you mentioned smoke being emitted!

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=21932.html

 

Adrian1, I DID say that...thanks for that link, I'll start there before tci. RhettB3, I've heard about this Robert guy, seems a busy one. Spending money is a little less an option for me...maybe as a last resort...

 

Robert hasn't responded to any posts in a LONG time, and I don't know if he's still doing TCI work.

I would still suspect a short in the headlight bucket. Open the bucket, pull the loops out so then can 'hang free' and not contact anything. Don't disconnect anything..........

Just because all the connectors are cleaned, doesn't mean that you don't have a bare spot rubbed in a casing somewhere especially where the wires have to go through a small hole.

Now try it and see what happens.

Next question.............. WHICH fuse is the one that's blowing? There's several different ones.

Dave F

 

Bingo! I see all sorts of conclusions being jumped to and wild guesses being substituted for diagnosis.

 

Don't feel bad about the responses. People here are trying to help. I went through all the wild and crazy suggestions and this is the one that worked for me. You need a wiring diagram to Identify the circuit the fuse is on. In my case it was the signal circuit. Buy a 10 amp circuit breaker it will save you from buying fuses as it resets every 10-20 secs as it cools. Do not use a breaker /fuse that is rated higher than your circuit.( YOU WILL BURN STUFF) You can pick up one at Auto-Zone or Advanced Auto parts cost about $5.00 or less. If your neutral light is dims start there on that circuit and work your way back. On mine it was part of the signal circuit. I started disconnecting switches and components one at a time that was on that same circuit. Stopped blowing when I unplugged on my turn signal relay. The relay checked out good. so I was lost again until I read a post that had me disassemble all my signal lights and it ended up being corrosion on the bulbs combined with a crushed wire where the previous owner did lay the bike down causing the wires to pinch. Don't get frustrated. If you find the correct circuit and have a proper wiring diagram for your bike. you will find the short. Hope this helps.

 

Different guy, this guys name is Don, seems to be an FZR guru. As others have stated though your problem most likely lies somewhere else, I was more or less offering up an "if all else fails."

 

Ok guys, this seems as good a place as any since we are already on the subject.

I have an 82 xj1100 and i keep blowing the headlight fuse. I switched out the old set of handlebars and dash setup along with em. I got all the wiring hooked back up and everything went good. Took her out today and after a few minutes, noticed I had no dash or headlights. Switched out the fuse and gave it another go. She goes for a while, then pops the fuse again. I think (but by no means positive on this) that it's happening when I use the kill switch to cut the motor. Put the multi meter to the contacts and I'm pulling 12.3 amps while not running. I hate electrical and this is driving me nuts.