Help again ;-) Seca Routing of clutch and Front brake cable

Hi again

Successfully removed the old handlebar after a lot of trouble with stuck screws and really worn screwheads...

Mounted my new "almost" straight handlebar (approx. 68 cm long and no elevation).

The cables (clutch, brake and throttle) are obviously a "bit long, but I managed to route the throttle (and choke) cables pretty good. Atleast they don't have any noticable "drag".

But the Clutch and brake cables are causing some trouble.
The brake cable I routed straight up behind the front light "box", on the inside of the instrument panel mounts and then over the handlebar backside round and over to the frontside to the brake lever.

However it seems like it's not releasing back fully, cause the brake's on the frontweel are just a tad "on". Not much, and I can easily turn the wheel by hand, even giving it a little spin.
I can hear that the brakepads are touching the disc.

Should I be worried?
Will they wear down enough to release the disc completely?

Anyone have a picture or instructions for a good way of routing the brake cable? Or is it possible to get a even shorter one (it's only like 30 cm long or something)....?

I don't worry much about the clutch cable, it's a bit bent and stiff, but the clutch seems to be fine. Same with the throttle.

 

Re: Help again ;-) Seca Routing of clutch and Front brake ca

Shit!

My headlight doesn't come on after refitting it....It's raining now and I have now garage, so I'll have to go bug huntin tomorrow

Hope it's only a missed connection, but I do remember getting all the connectors really nicely connected.,,,

 

You need to fill out your signiture section in your profile so we can clearly see what kind of bike you have. I assume it's a seca due to the short brake cable being used. Your master cylinder is mounted on the frame behind the headlight?

1st have you lubed the cables and made sure they move freely prior to reinstalling them?

2nd Check and see if the arm on the master cylinder is moving freely (the arm that the cable is pulling up on)

3rd the brake pads sticking may be related to problems in the brake caliper and the piston is not being pulled back into the caliper. It might be worth trying to spray some bake cleaner around the piston and see what kind of crap comes out. You may have to resort to taking the unit apart and install new seals.

 

The Secas headlight is designed not to turn on until the engine is running.

 

Re: Help again ;-) Seca Routing of clutch and Front brake ca

Thanks for the input guys.

I don't think the brake pads are "on" (ie not released fully).
Made a testrun yesterday. After going for a couple of km's NOT using the front brake discs, only the rear brake. And the discs are not "hot", only the right one is close do "body warm". The left one is completely cold.

I guess that means that the master cylinder fully realeases the pressure on the pads? And the only reason for one disc to be a tad warm is that the pads are touching it a little bit. Maybe the caliper needs a little grease to allow it to be completely drawn away from the disc?

I am not very conserned about it. It has probably been like that for quite some while, I just didn't notice before I actually checked after rerouting the wire's.

Learning point? Always check the current state of things and make a mental note of it before you change anything. In that way you will have a reference point to check things up against....

Oh! and the headlight not coming on was caused by a bad connection.

Nick, the headlights come on whenever I turn on the ignition, before the motor is running on my Seca. I don't know if it's supposed to do so, but I believe others also have it in this way since I have read in another thread that the starter may not kick completely in whenever the headlight is on and that a way of ensuring that it does kick in all the way is to turn off the headlight...
This seems to work on my bike. The thread may have been related to another model though...

finally, the bike is completely different to ride with the drag bars, More agressive and I feel more "in touch" with the bike and the road doing curves.
I think it's better than with the standard handlebars...

Now I only have 3 problems to solve....
1. The Choke cable is not realeasing back easily, will have to reroute it.
2. The choke lever will touch the tank when torning the steering completely to the left, which causes the engine to be killed (flooded) if I do so. Not nice when having to wriggle myself through rush hour traffic. Will have to come up with a solution to this one. for now I just unhooked the wire from the choke lever...
3. The mirrors, aww! Can't see much in them. the angle is completely wrong and they are corroded so much I can't really adjust them much either.
Actually I broke off the entire part of the right handle where it's fastened trying to adjust it with a wrench... :-( I can "glue" it with some nifty compound liquid metal stuff I have, but the issue of adjustment still arises.
Think I will get a couple of replacement mirrors and fasten them to the handlebar itself. was thinking about getting a couple which goues on the handlebar ends (into the handlebar hole). But I think that will add to the overall width of the bike, which again is an issue when going in dense traffic inbetween lanes....

brgds
Dev