Neat little electrical gremlin

I have had this problem from day one and have posted once before about it and still cannot figure it out. I am hoping someone out here might have the same problem or a solution.

In order to use my left turn signal, I have to engage my right one first.
My left signal will not flash or light up at all until I push the button to the right first. When I flash once to the right, the left will flash and will flash after just a breif moment even after I have turn them off or they go off automatically. Wait more that about 30 seconds, the left will not flash again until I push to the right again. I have gone through the wireing and cleaned everything, electro greased all the connections and even tried another original Yamaha flasher relay. I still have the same problem with the new flasher. I have run out of ideas.
Anyone? Looking your way Rick-o.

 

Have you changed the switch? Wonky connections within the switch could cause such an issue.

Jim 8)

 

I have tore the switch down, resoldered all connections and packed the unit with Dielectric grease. The switch works fine I am not getting any OHM variances or abnormal voltage drops when it is operated.

 

How long are your Alternator Brushes?
Really!???

Is your switch a Push-Click Cancel ... or, a Move to Center Cancel?

How's the Bullets to those Signals Lights inside the Headlight Bucket looking?
Think we need to get in there and put a little crimp on 'em?

 

Never thought about the alternator brushes. To be anounced. Now next project.
It is a push click button. I push it in and it clicks to center and dissables the turn signal.
I am a little confused of the "bullets". I am assuming these are the bulb sockets?

 

No.

The ends of the wires that get plugged into electric current sources within the headlight Bucket ... have little "Bullets" at the end.

Shine them with 800 sandpaper.
Twist-up a small roll of 800 and do the inside of the receptacles; too

 

I have cleaned all connections associated with the turn signals. I removed the connections from their housings, cleaned with sandpaper until bright and shinny and filled the sockets with dielectric grease. I OHM'ed all associated wires and did a voltage drop test across all connections. I had a little resistance in the right rear signal but was corrected with a sufficient ground cleaning.Everything was good with the wireing harness.
Told you it was a good one.

 

How much grease have you put into your switches.

I Know it is nesassery but I am not a big fan of electro grease. You should only use enough to coat the contacts. If you pack the swiches you will get shorts across the contacts. This grease is designed to allow electricty to flow through it but protect contacts from damage.

Never pack swithes with grease like you would a bearing.

 

I thought dialectric grease was non-conductive. The back of the can I have says it's an insulator. I ran some on a towel and used a multimeter to measure the resistance of it, and as far as I can tell, the needle didn't move until I actually touched the probes together.

 

That's what dielectric means.
A dielectric, or electrical insulator, is a substance that is highly resistant to the flow of an electric current.

The idea of grease is to waterproof components. The connections themselves must be good and checked for high resistance or disconnection with a multi meter. High resistance connectors are a major PITA when chasing a electric fault. I just check them all. At the age most of these bikes are it is a really good idea (every connector on my XJ was "green"!).

 

It's a good idea to use some grease on the battery connections and terminals to stop corrosion (that can leave you with a flat battery)

For switches, inspect, clean and meter check they work. You can take the XJs control switches apart, check where they connect with each other and clean that spot with a bit of 600 wet 'n dry. Reassemble dry.

For connectors, clean and check for high resistance by testing for voltage drop. If you want to use grease on them connect them first then force grease into the connector where the wire enters to keep water out.

REPLACE the factory Fuse Box!

 

Original problem.
capy,
Is your bike fitted with a self cancelling unit?

 

It is a self cancelling unit. I even cleaned all connections associated with the cancelling unit in the tach.
I had this problem from the day I bought it from PO. I changed all bulbs. I do not have a replaceable fuse box assembly, mine are in the gauge cluster but I did pull everything, cleaned and replaced all fuses.

 

I have the same problem! Mine started after I changed a busted left switch pod out

 

i seem to remember a similar problem with mine when i first took it home (it was in rough shape). ended up being a ground issue.

 

Did you bother to check the Alternator Brushes.

If everything's working and the switches, contacts, flasher and cancelling unit are A-OK.

You probably don't have enough juice to power everything.
That traces right back to the battery.
And ... with the bike running ... alternator output.

Just look at the brushes. 11mm is the limit. There might even be a line to show you the wear limit.

 

Think I found my problem. My left rear turn signal fell off today. Apperantly the "spring" inside the the stay was broke. I am not sure if the stay is part of the common "ground" on the signal system but as soon as I can aquire a set I will inform on if it fixes the problem. If you have a set lying around think of me. I have paypal and am not affraid to use it.

 

Nothing that new, sorry buddy.