unable to pull oil filter

searched around a bit and didnt find anyone with this particular problem..

ive had my xj650j for about a month and just changed oil today. I picked up a filter too and intended to install it, but when i went to pull the main oil filter bolt (12mm) i saw it was partially stripped.

Tried with my 12mm (12 point) socket and it stripped. Then tried a vice grip as tight as I could get it and stripped again. Tried tapping it from all angles with a hammer, etc but nothing..

Guessing the oil filter hasn't been changed in a long long time -- and if i can get it off, the bolt will likely need to be replaced

So, just like in the "Stuckness" chapter of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance," Im stuck!

EDIT: referring to the "ByPass Valve Assembly." The external 12mm bolt head is stripped, not the internal threads. though the threads appear seized

Any other Ideas for getting the Oil filter cover off?

I read somewhere there is a thread-on filter conversion kit.. can someone point me to a modern/working link?

thanks

 

about halfway down is the oil filter stuff, spin on kits and stock parts: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... rt=15.html

If you can't get any grip on the bolt head you may need to grind it off and slide the filter and housing off. Then you can try to turn the portion of the bolt that is left.

 

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-da ... =41486:3:0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZP05y32aJw

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=38256.html

 

The threads aren't seized, it was overtightened like so many others have found.

The bolt is HOLLOW and the head is undersized (to prevent overtightening.) Torque spec is only like 11 ft/lb but your plight is not unique.

A new bolt is a commonly available (through motorcycle channels not the hardware store) item, or you can go with the spin-on kit.

I'm partial to the fins, myself.

 

I had a similar issue but bolt was not as bad. Try a cordless torque wrench with a socket that is close to the proper size. I would not try the pneumatic torque wrench as too much power and chance of damage.

Heating the bolt (even hair dryer) may help in the process too.

 

maverickbr77 s idea is not so easy, as the washer is part of the bolt head, best method is a long thin cold chisel & get a bite on the 'washer', tou just need to knock it 1/8" then it will turn with grips.

 

If you can force an under-size socket to go on then you may have some luck with an impact driver.

 

"Damaged Bolt Extractor Socket"



NAPA, AutoZone, Sears

 

Right on guys,

Thanks for the tips. Gonna try the socket extractors first, then will move to a chisel or grinder, etc...

either way not gonna go at it today since i JUST put fresh oil in. When i do take another stab at it, planning to swap for the screw-on adapter instead of continuing to struggle with the stock filter.

 

The stock filter is no struggle at all once properly installed.

 

I want to second both Adrian's Sears link and Fitz pic of the bolt extractors. We keep some around not just for the bikes but also some old tractors. An extractor and breaker bar make a short work of a fused bolt, just make sure you have a replacement nearby.

 

a bolt extractor and maybe some heat is all you need....

 

Slackard, I had the same problem when I bought my bike. Bought myself a gator grip socket attachment from home depot for around $10. The things works great. Then get yourself a new bolt. Good luck man.

 

penetrating oil never hurts either

 

Man vs. Oil Filter Bolt: and the winner is….Man! But not until after a long struggle and an overflowing swear jar. Tried the craftsman stripped bolt socket, vice grips, pipe wrench, etc. etc.. Grinding it down till it popped off was the solution that worked for me. The whole time I’m fighting it, right there in front of my face, in raised letters on the oil filter cover is “1.5 M-kg”; like some ominous warning from an engineer long ago saying “better not over tighten this one buddy.”
Went with the upgraded 17mm hex bolt, anti-seize compound and installed with torque wrench. Should be good to go for next time.

In reference to the remark by Fitz: Just wondering; has anyone had trouble getting one of these off after PROPERLY installing it?

 

Congrats!!!!!

 

I've never had an issue, but I change the oil twice a year (once when I winterize it, and once when summer hits - different oil each time) and use anti-seize.

 

Which is only 11 ft/lb. And which NOBODY ever seems to notice, or if they do they don't know what it means. (It is the torque spec.)

As far as getting it back off if installed correctly: I've done NUMEROUS oil changes (multiple operational XJs) on mine with zero issues. But I'm a major fan of torque wrench use.

 

slackard,

When you have a go at your seized bypass valve(oil filter bolt), try the stripped bolt socket and a looong cheater bar/pipe.

I just had the same situation on a new to me Maxim. My bolt head was just slightly rounded. I was able to get a decent grip with a six point socket and apply some massive torque via a 5' cheater pipe on the breaker bar. It broke loose ridiculously easily after the fight it gave me with an 18" breaker bar.

Get some help to hold the socket and extension on squarely.

 

Order your NEW Oil Filter Bolt.
The one you got is toast.

There's enough Purchase on the "Shouldered" section of the Filter Bolt to get a good bite on it with a SMALL Pipe Wrench.
You need to use a section of Pipe to add leverage.

The Down-side is:
The Header Pipes have to come off.
That fact, alone, can further complicate the job.
Big-time.

If a Header Pipe Collar Nut is seized, ... scrub the mission.

As I have always said:

"Don't do anything that will make your bad situation ... worse!"

 

got the filter off today and swapped for a new one..

stuck with the vice grip and made sure to get good purchase.. then with a 2nd set of hands used a punch & hammer to tap the head of the bolt as I applied constant pressure on the wrench, which did the trick. call it the dual-man hand operated impact wrench

There was no big O-ring on the filter shell, just a buttassload of gasket compound.. it resealed good and hasnt leaked yet so good for the moment -- i guess. Still had to use the vicegrips to re-install

Will be ordering a new bolt or (more likely) the screw on kit soon.

Thanks to all for the advice offered.

 

The previous owner who used gasket compound to seal the oil filter on is a complete idiot......that's a new one.....learn something different everyday on this forum....does not surprise me thou.....I guess he wanted to make sure it was a tight fit & would not suck air thru oil filter......lol

 

• Coat the first 22mm of the New Filter Bolts Threads with AntiSeize Compound.
• Lube both Filter Bolt O-rings with Oil
•>> Get yourself --> 6-Point <-- Sockets for BOTH the Drain Plug and Filter Bolt.

(FRAM Filters come with NEW O-rings ::: Included ::: )

 

so yea, if you read my most recent post in this thread I got the oil filter cover off, but found there was no o-ring between the block and the filter cover, just a bunch of gasket sealer..

No wonder they had this thing so damn tight! now its leaking a bit and I dont want to overtighten again...

obviously i'd want to get a new o-ring (or the screw-on kit), but im not certain where the gasket sealer ends and the filter cap begins..

anyone have a closeup photo of the filter cover where the large oring seats (oring removed)? guessing there is a channel that the oring sits in, but all i see on mine is a flush surface covered in gray goop. I dont want to start marring it up with the wirehweel or x-acto without knowing what the end product should look like...

leaning more and more towards the screw-on retrofit... too bad im dirtass poor

Thanks in advance.

 

Here's a pic of an OIL COOLER flange, from the side that faces the motor.

The o-ring and groove are identical to the filter housing (this flange goes between the filter housing and the block on oil cooler-equipped models.)

This is what your filter housing (with o-ring in place) should look like from that side.

 

Here's one of an actual housing I found via Google:

 

Money thanks a ton bigfitz.. just what i was looking for.. on mine that groove is completely filled in with gasket goop... JEEEEZ!

local shop has the oring on hand but they close before i get off work today.. So it was in the past and so shall it be again in the future -- hurry up and wait!

Existing cap isnt leaking too badly.. maybe 8-10 drips while at work today so hoping should be ok for the drive home from work (~20 miles)



Thanks again

 

The Filter Dome and Bolt O-rings are $12.95 at the Dealership.

BOTH come FREE (in the box) with a FRAM Oil Filter.

 

Rick is correct; the FRAM CH6003 comes with both o-rings as do the Wix but I don't have their PN memorized.

 

right on.. thanks for the exact fram part number...

Went looking on amazon and also found the Wix # for anyone interested:

Wix 24934 - includes both orings