Rear-to-front wheel conversion

Research the term "unsprung weight" is my only comment on this subject.

Fitz, out.

 

If I raced my XJ on the track I would surely pay attention to "unsprung weight". Heck, if I needed a perfect bike with amazing performance and handling, I wouldn't go for an "83 XJ...

Also, I am not sure a skinnier 19" wheel weight a lot less than a 16" wider wheel.

 

I have not seen this before, so I thought I would give the topic a bump in case others missed it.

 

My bike had one of these conversions and honestly I feel that the bike handled better than before. Felt a bit slower though.

 

So I have finished the conversion on my 1983 XJ650 Maxim and I would like to share my thoughts on this.

I must say that the bike handles a lot better now. It is easier to control the bike especially when getting in/out of curves. Two other people have tried my bike before and after the conversion and thought the same thing - it does handle better.

Now, for the actual kit... oh boy, that took about 6 hours to install - I was lucky that I was in a shop where I had access to different size grinders, whole bunch of bolts and spacers, lifts, jacks, some other machinery and helping friends...

1. As per instructions, I needed to re-drill the holes in the wheel to accommodate the new hub - and it appears no one owns a 7/16" drill bit. Maybe it was just a coincidence, but I asked 3-4 people who had drill kits but no 7/16. I was lucky we found one at the shop.



2. The instructions are not clear on how much material needs to be cut on the brake side. I did what I could:


Now, the filler cover goes on the brake side of the wheel and needs a 1-2mm clearance (as per instruction). This clearance is crucial. If there is no clearance - the wheel would be very hard to turn. The cover stays still (with the fork) while the wheel turns.

When I test fitted the cover I didn't have any clearance.


I didn't want to spend hours re-cutting the wheel again and again so I just made a spacer to go between the wheel and the cover.

3. a) The original spacer (from the right side of the front wheel) is also too long and needs to be cut and tested and cut and tested and... On this picture I already cut more than half of the spacer. This spacer is also very important because it "determines" if your wheel will be centered or not.


3. b)You also need a spacer front the original front wheel that goes between the 2 bearings. This spacer also needs to me measured and cut to fit properly between the new bearings in your "new" wheel.

4. One of the 6 bolts in the kit that hold the brake rotor was different from the other bolts, it was longer and had wrong threads so I had to find a new one. Of course I didn't want 1 bolts that looks different from the other 5, so I got 6 new bolts.


5. When you test fit everything, make sure you are doing it with the speed sensor - it does change the fitment a little.

6. Instructions say it might be easier to fit the wheel if the caliper is removed. It SHOULD say: "There is no way of fitting the wheel unless you remove the caliper from the fork".

7. Instructions say to use 120x90x16 or maximum 130x90x16 tire. In my case the 130 tires was a little too big and it rubs on both forks. Very lightly, but it still rubs. Stick with the 120 - just in case.


... it's not an easiest thing I've done. If I didn't have access to the shop, all of the tools and a friend's help - i'd probably give up on the conversion.

Total damage - 175$ and about 6 hours of labor.
It looks better. It handles better.
Final result:



- Alex

 

Looks good. I think a 18 inch Seca rear wheel would look better.
7/16ths drill bit isn't a common size, most drill bit kits skip over that one so you have to spend more for the full range kit or just buy the missing sizes you need later.
My son in law put a 110/90-19 on his 86 Max (had to space the fork brace/fender 1/8th up from the fork mount), he likes the way it looks/handles better. BTW: it was a cheaper mod: tire-$120, 4-1/4" lock washers that were 1/8" compressed that I had in the shop. 8)

 

HI ARE YOU STILL DOING THE KITS I AM VERY INTERESTED IN USING ONE IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE THE DRUM BRAKE INSTEAD OF THE SINGLE DISK

 

HI ARE YOU STILL DOING THE KITS I AM VERY INTERESTED IN USING ONE IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE THE DRUM BRAKE INSTEAD OF THE SINGLE DISK

 

hi would it be possible to use the virago 535 rear wheel as its a spoked wheel and would look good

 

will the speedometer still work on this?

 

i'd love to have a kit for my 80 xs1100

 

You'd have to compare the overall OD or circumference of the conversion vs. a stock front wheel/tire; as long as that dimension is close, it doesn't matter how you arrive there. I see a speedo drive in the pic above but it isn't properly engaged with the fork ear.

 

Is this still available and does it require machining to install? I have an 83 xj750.

 

Install tip:

If, by chance, you're a bit excited after making all the modifications to the wheel... and end up using a bit of wood you find in your buddy's back-yard to install the bearings...

This is all hypothetical of course. :|

And you hypothetically crush the bajesus out of one of the bearings..

Most auto-parts stores have replacements! Just bring in the, uh, hypothetically-crushed bearing and they can do a cross-search on the p/n.

 

Figured I should post a picture.

If anyone is thinking about buying one of these kits, I highly recommend them. It's really an easy conversion and the outcome is amazing.



+1 very satisfied customer!

 

I'm in.

 

How much extra weight does that add to the front. I imagine that has a big effect of wheelies. but it does look cool

 

Cafe-xj750...I thinks this rocks & I really do want this kit...please let me know if & where I can get this. I started a rebuild on an 82 xj650 j & I am turning it into a bobber.

 

Send him a PM. I don't think he checks this forum often, but I'm pretty sure he has e-mail notification on for PMs. He is currently looking for a few more depositors for his next run.