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Torque Wrench and Castle Nut Size

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Flatwound, Mar 27, 2006.

  1. Flatwound

    Flatwound Member

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    After a new tire replacement, I want to check the torque on my front axle. Also, since I'll soon be replaceing my fork seals, I know I'll have the front wheel off and on again.
    So, 2 questions for fellow XJ owners-
    1. What type of torque wrench do you like to use? I have seen the Husky at the Depot for around $49.00, and a similar design at Pep Boyz for $18.00 (American Tools). Also, Manny Mac and Joe had an older 'analog' style that uses a long pointer and scale for $9.95. Are these older style considered to be accurate?
    2. What size is the Castle Nut that goes on the end of the front axle? I measured around 22mm, but I don't want to buy the wrong size socket. My shop manual specifies 78 ft/lbs. for the torque, which sounds on the high side.
    Thanks for your comments-
    Bill
    '82 XJ750J
     
  2. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Let me put my calibration technician hat on here. I have run tests on SnapOn, Craftsman, Harbor Freight, and quite a few other units. In my experience, my $12 cheapy from Harbor Freight came within tolerances straight from the factory. You can get much tighter tolerances with the high end wrenches, but for our use, the cheap ones suffice easily (my cheap one worked within a reasonable 7% variance on the linear scale full range). I would avoid the beam type (mechanical pointer) because, while it worked fine for our father's cast iron heads, we deal primarily with aluminum and the fudge factor is not good for our parts. That said, have at. I would have any wrench you buy checked initially to verify it's tolerances and make sure you buy a case (or make one if your handy enough). Proper storage and use of your wrench will ensure it is what you need when you need it. Tips; ALWAYS store your wrench with the unit dialed down to it's lowest setting, do not use it for a breaker (one way only!), resist the urge to use it as a regular wrench (use it only to torque, nothing else), put it away immediately when your done with it (this will ensure you don't drop it inadvertently), keep it clean (I store mine in socks with a bit of oil to prevent rust). If you should ever drop it, it's accuracy is immediatly suspect, have it retested. How's that for a primer?
    About your nut, it is 22mm and will use all of the 77 ft/lbs that are called for. You can loosen up just a hair to match up the pin holes if you need too, but I can't think of how this might happen given the six holes in the axle. Let me know if I missed something.
     
  3. BlueMaxim

    BlueMaxim Active Member

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    Thanks for the info Robert. I didn't know about dropping the wrench. If this does happen what should I do.
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    "If you should ever drop it, it's accuracy is immediatly suspect, have it retested." Somebody near you should be able to check it out for you. I know that SnapOn and Craftsman will let you send your wrench in and calibrate it for you for a small fee. If someone has a test bench in your town, they might just help you out for a few bucks or beers. I would suggest looking in the yellow pages for calibration facilities or labs. Hit Google as well. I've dropped two wrenches and I'm embarassed to have to bring them into the lab to have them checked but you can't be too careful working on airplanes! Just make sure you pull it out only to use it immediately and put it straight away when your done and you will minimize the chances of having it drop. Don't set it down on the bench to "get back to it in a minute", you'll drop it sooner rather than later. Get in the habit of only putting it down in it's case. Hope that clearified the question for you Max.
     
  5. BlueMaxim

    BlueMaxim Active Member

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    Cleared thing right up for me Robert. And thanks for being careful on airplanes. We pilots appreciate it.
    I have one of the harbor freight wrenches so I will have to find a place to get it calibrated if I do drop it. I also went into my garage last night and loosened the setting after I finished torquing down my engine mounts. Good to know these things! :)
     
  6. Flatwound

    Flatwound Member

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    Robert- Thanks for the quick and detailed response. I was also suspect about the accuracy of the beam pointer type, so I think I'll stop by Harbor Freight and check out the selection. Also, thank you for the size of the front axel nut.
    Bill Carroll
     
  7. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Max, "Blessed are they that romp in the fluff, for they shall be called aviators", sigh, my eyes kept me from being a pilot, but I still get to work on them! I worked Quality Assurance for near 2 years and learned a lot about detail and care for tools and equipment. To easy to kill someone in this business. You would be amazed at some of the stupid things I saw people pull working on motors. Bill, should you pass by Harbor Freight, they have a wonderful impact socket set that covers from 8 to 30mm (SAE too!) for about $20DUS. It has about 30 sockets in it with extensions in 3/8" and 1/2", all wrapped up in a nice injection blown plastic carrying case. I couldn't find the numbr on it, sorry. That should cover your bases! They also sell a cheap (but very functional) electric impact gun designed to work off of 12VDC. Just plug into the cigarette lighter and pop those lug nuts! It includes a few sockets as well and runs about $25 on sale (which occurs every other month or so). Great companion purchase for the socket set. Hope you score what you need, Rob.
     
  8. Brian750R

    Brian750R Member

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    I know the snap-on ones are a little pricey (hey mine was $160(im fairly sure) and thats student discount price) but ill tell you, having a HUGE 1/2 drive tourque wrench that goes from 25-130ft-lbs, in ALL chrome, that makes the most beautiful click with a lifetime no questions asked warranty... hell i could run it over if i felt like it! and get a new one within the week... now thats a tool.

    If your using a cotter pin on an axle (and this applies to every cotter pin you put into every castle nut of your whole entire life that you may happen to encounter) always make sure to have the pin with the flat side, towards the inside, and turned so that when you bend the top piece out, it comes up into the middle of the nut...not out to the side NO SMILY FACES

    the reason for this is that the cotter pin is much stronger sideways then it is from front to back. Try to bend a cotter pin to the side, and you will see just how much stronger. It is signifigant.

    P.S. no affiliation with snap-on... i just really REALLY love this wrench, i know everything already that robert said aboutsotring them (spot on by the way, very good advice) it is SO hard to resist the temptation to use it for everything all the time, and then go out and find thigns to tourqe just to hear it click...sighhh
     
  9. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    You are so right Brian, I love my SnapOn wrenches too, the ergonomics are unparalleled. I picked up the cheapies when I was unable to get home to get my babies. They will work and are cheap enough that if someone else decides they want my wrench, I'm not out the hundreds of dollars that owning fine tools cost (haven't lost many, but even one is too much). Great lesson on cotter pins, good timing. I like your analogy, going to remember the smile. I don't use too many, I tend to swap out with spring pins (or hair pins as some of us call them), they are reusable but they are also easily monkey'd with so beware! Keep smiling and rolling!
     

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