Replacing a carb body...Is #1 identical to #2/3/4?

Recently broke an ear off of the float holder when removing the seats...

DAMN

I have a buddy with an old parts rack, but by sheer shitshowery, it's missing the #1... Are any of them identical? Can I swap any of them for the #1?

 

The #1 body is only bored for the fuel rail on the right, the number 4 is only bored on the left and the 2 & 3 are bored both sides.

Only 2 and 3 will swap without requiring modifications for the fuel delivery.

 

So, I COULD plug it at my local machine shop, but it may be more hassle than it's worth...

Damn, I was hoping to get away with not breaking the rack.

Any one ever soldered/welded on the carbs? Are they pot metal?

 

I'm pretty sure they're aluminum. You'd need an Al plug and a decent TIG guy. Not sure on the alloy of the body casting though. Hopefully someone will come along with more knowledge of nonferrous metals. I'm a steel guy.

 

I suspect the body is aluminum. Bowls are often pot metal.

I had a welder build up the float pin pillar on a Mikuni once. Then finished with a file and re-drilled the pin hole.

 

That's an idea. The mechanic at my work is pretty good with a tig, but I don't think he's ever done anything quite so detailed. Might as well give it a try before I buy a new one, anyway.

I've seen lots of people use "fuel safe" epoxy for similar repairs, but I'd rather not risk it. Broken down 500 miles from nowhere is always interesting, but not always fun.

 

You could drill and tap in a round post - then drill the float pin hole.

 

That would be another route. There are a lot of people who seem to be good with brazing this stuff.

Here's my question...

Does anyone know for sure that these carbs are ALUMINUM or POT METAL.

I can't seem to find anything on it.

 

stick a cork in it
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tapered-rubber-plugs/=pqfhpr

 

Here are a couple ways to fix it.

Http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... art=0.html

Http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=262240.html

 

I don't know for sure, I can generally tell when I have something in my hand but I don't have one here. What I do know is they are fairly precision devices, and precision stuff isn't usually made from pot metal.

There is also different % zinc in various pot metal. They welder I use can sometimes weld pot metal if the zinc content is low enough.

 

Back in '09 I had a broken float post on #1 for an XS11.
Took it to a Jewelry maker who had a a laser welder. He fixed it in 45minutes.
Cost was $80. To me it was worth it as #1 was hard to find.
Pic of the carb below was mine, shows a before and after.
Laser weld repair