Ignition Cut-off issue

Hello everybody it has been quite a while. I sold my 82 XJ650J about three years ago when I needed the money. I was unbelievably fortunate enough to find my old bike for sale on craigslist and be able to purchase it back.

I have run into an electrical issue which is my weakest point with working on bikes. I can do engines, brakes, suspension. Carburetors and electrical systems for some reason baffle me. Anyway, here are the symptoms of what has been happening:

-It will keep running when you turn the key to "off"
-It will keep running when you attempt to turn it off with the killswitch
-The neutral light will stay on even with the key out until you turn the killswitch off (there is still a drain on the battery when this happens)
-You can start the bike with the key out.
-The bike will continue to run if I pull the main fuse (the main fuse is hot to the touch as well)

-If I remove the ignition cutoff relay under the tank then I can shut the bike off with the key and the killswitch but the bike will still attempt to crank with the key out.

-If I separate the connector in the headlight that runs to the start button and kill switch the bike will not turn over so the problem has to be past that connector.

That's about all I can remember right now. I have a multimeter and a battery charger. I am not very good with the multimeter. I know what continuity, resistance, and voltage is but I do not know how to actually track a problem down with it. I have a manual but have a hard time reading wiring diagrams. Yes, I am electrically dumb.

Does anybody have any ideas or advice?

 

I think I may have it figured out. I mentioned that when the ignition cutoff relay is out the problems no longer persist. I am able to turn the ignition switch off and the killswitch works. When the ignition switch is off with the relay out there is no additional draw to the battery. If I plug the relay back in the with the ignition key off there is an immediate draw on the battery. I believe the relay is stuck closed completing the circuit regardless if the bike is on or off.

 

" I do not know how to actually track a problem down"
Looks like you do actually.

"Yes, I am electrically dumb."
Also, apparently incorrect.

"I think I may have it figured out." -1sim37

 

Doesn't mean I am correct. Time will tell.

 

I think you figured it out.

The inputs the relay gets from the various switches are "on" or "off" so a short circuit in one of them would simply result in the relay getting inaccurate "information" so to speak, but not make anything get warm. When things get warm, there's generally a short circuit somewhere.

The relay is purely mechanical, and you may even be able to carefully pop the cover off and diagnose it. I don't think anything's "stuck" though, the behavior you described isn't correct no matter what state the relay is in. I'd be more inclined to think you'll find it full of green chalky corrosion and/or burnt or melted bits.

 

" If I plug the relay back in the with the ignition key off there is an immediate draw on the battery."
if your sure this is correct, something is wrong. with the key off that relay should not be able to operate.
try the same test but this time after you turn the key off, unplug the key switch, now you know it's off.
seems like there's a lot of voltage going around with the key in the off position. i'd take a close look at the key switch and prove it works as it should

 

I will take a look at the key switch again. I did take it apart and cleaned the connections last week. Is there a simple way (or at least a way I will understand) to find where the short is actually occurring?

 

Excellent call on the relay shorting. I managed to get the cover off and it is absolutely covered in corrosion on the inside.

 

New to the xj series. But on the late 80s model BMW models especially the 87 k100 there was a constant problem with that relay welding itself when there was an attempt to start the bike with a low battery. If you open it up and clean it, nail file works really good to clear off any snags caused by it welding itself. It should be fine. IF its the same root cause and problem, you might want to go ahead and check the voltage at the relay too see what's getting to it. I haven't heard of this problem with the xj series being caused by low batteries but I have run across a lot of electrical problems and power loss being caused by fuse boxes needing to be replaced. I hope it helps and remember I am a total newb of the Yamaha's here.

 

Edit it was the starter relay causing the starter motor to stay engaged and active on the beemers.