Latest to fall for the SECA's charm

Hi Everyone,

Just took delivery of my first motorbike - 1982 XJ550RH SECA - found the bike online and after negotiation got her delivered for a cool $100 - the PO said he had it working but through his life situation the bike (and a short in the front brake mechanism) had become neglected and thus was stored in a barn for the last 7 years, which has now left it in a, non running, state.

Most parts were told to be stock (except the handlebar & exhaust which have been modified) and i also have no manuals so am on the hunt through ebay before doing anything other than cleaning the bike up.

With my limited knowledge of biking and mechanics in general, I realize potentially I have bitten off more than can be chewed however I am here, I want to learn and like everyone else, you gotta start somewhere, right?

In addition, I have only scratched the surface on how awesome this forum is in the recent weeks of research and so far your focus on safety, safe biking technique and notes of support & encouragement have been reassuring to read (esp as a noob).

Also worth a note - This bike will not be rode (?ridden?) until fully restored and inspected by a qualified mechanic. Not that I don't trust myself but just to be extra cautious with an older beast.

Over the coming weeks and months I would like to share the project as it develops through photographs and in return pick some brains over mechanical issues. I did take lots pictures to show you guys the state she's in & rather than thumping up loads and filling my allowance here, I've started a gallery at this address

http://jameskphotography.pixieset.com/y ... caproject/

The Password is SECA

**please use UPPERCASE letters or it won't allow access**

There are pics in there illustrating items which do need attention, leaking oil and broken parts (i'm sure you'll spot more) and would appreciate feedback, questions and help finding issues i may have missed (see image attached also).

Introductions over...here's a question - is anyone on here on Vancouver Island?

 

Yep! got your work cut out for you.
Having said that it looks to be all there,and a large proportion of that work is clean,polish and lube.The cheapest bit.
Nice starter and worth the time mate,looking to follow along on your journey.
Good little bikes.
http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/class ... jzbea.aspx

 

Looks like a good base there fella, might be worth trying to get your hands on a steam cleaner or jetwash and see how well it comes up. Speak to the guys around here when you get into the mechanics, especially Bigfitz, the guy's like an encyclopaedia when it comes to XJ's

 

Welcome. Well, you do have your work cut out for you. Take your time. Be patient. If it takes a year, so be it. First, do a compression test to see if it's worth fixing. If the numbers are good, have at it. If the numbers are low, getting the valve clearances in spec could help (can't hurt). Bigfitz52 (XJ god and "Safety Nazi") has an excellent "How To" on checking and setting valves. TAKE NO SHORT CUTS!!! Don't be afraid to ask questions. And above all, have fun.

 

Welcome !! Good to hear you're safety-concious.
Build it right, or fix it twice !

 

That's a good idea... But the qualified mechanic will be you. 8O

 

Welcome JayK. I've had a quick look at the pics and I think you are very brave for popping your cherry on a bike that's clearly in need of such a lot of work. It looks like you got it for a good price but I'm sure you are aware that it'll take a fair bit of expenditure to make it roadworthy. As bmarzka has already said take your time to assess whether the bike is worth fixing. Go through all the necessary steps to resurrect the engine and listen to it running before spending a lot of time restoring it cosmetically. Check the underside of the frame tubes for corrosion. Both XJ's that I own have corrosion in exactly the same place which is on the lower left side of the frame just forward of the kick-stand mounting. The inside of the frame tube is likely to be far worse than any visible corrosion on the outside. Anyway, good luck and have fun.

 

That's rough, going to be a challenge. Looks like they used glue for the carb seal!

There's a link in my .sig with a list of things to check and how to do them. You'll need to invest in a lot of cleaner and elbow grease, but you'll have a lot of help in everything else from these forums!

 

You have a lot of work ahead of you. You may have better luck rebuilding the pink bike with the training wheels. Keep up with the pictures.

 

right now, get a can of "Kroil" and put it on every nut and bolt and screw. at least twice

 

My suggestion is to accomplish a good compression test on the motor before investing any money into the bike. If the motor is bad then you have a parts bike and it would be time to source out another bike for restoration.

Take as many photos of everything you do, it will help when putting the bike back together. Also get a box of string tags and mark every item, knob, bolt, screw, thingamabob that you take off the bike. Hard to remember what is what months down the road.

Have fun

Hope this helps

 

JayK, some of the comments here are sort of negative. Don't get discouraged. Do what makes you happy.
I gave my father-in-law a 1949 Massey-Harris Pony tractor. He put $3500 in to it for restoration. It will bring $1000 max, at auction. But, it made him happy.
I have a 85 XJ700 Maxim. Bought it for $1400 in 2006. Probably spent $1500 on it since then. And I'll keep spending money on it because ... it makes me happy.
Best of luck, my friend.

 

I just had a chance to go through the pics.

First off, it's not an "H." It has a body-color front fender, black lower fork legs and a blacked-out valve cover plus your post says it's an '82. That would make in an "XJ550RJ" (the H, J, K are model year designators.)

Yes, the bike IS quite rough; but it's nearly complete.

Believe it or not, the bike in the pic below was in similar, if not worse shape when I got it, having been kept outside for at least 4+ years straight, here in Michigan. Although the original paint and graphics were still there, my engine and cases were in similar condition to yours but I had a rusted-out Kerker 4-1 to replace too. It took quite a bit of elbow grease; but the result was well worth it.

 

So where to begin....thanks to everyone for the handy words of realism & encouragement. The informational tips and links will prove invaluable as the project proceeds.

I was unable to get my hands on Kroil & chose to try out the liquid wrench, i heard they weren't too bad a substitute.

Realistically, I agree that this project will take time and patience, in my head i gave myself an 18 month window to learn/work and combined with a budget of under a grand, will hope to get it working again.

Thanks Bigfitz for the clarification correction, after rechecking the VIN (which is 9 digits) against the posting in MODEL IDs and VIN's. It is an 82 with a 4U9 beginning which would definitely put it into the RJ category.

On the back of that, is there mechanically speaking much difference between the manuals?

 

Nope. There's only one factory book, for the RH. The aftermarket book is the Clymer, and it's full of gaps.

All of the 550 Secas are essentially the same, mechanically.

If you've mapped out 18 months and expect to sink $600 ~ $800 into it then you've got a realistic goal. Start by ensuring the motor is in viable condition (check the valve clearances and then do a compression test.)

 

OK, hi everyone, loving the forum details and how to guides, makes DIY work much less stressful and the bike is definitely moving in the right direction.

Bringing up to speed, we have compression and spark - decided to strip the carbs and found them to be gunked up with varnish....now cleaned am in the reassemble phase, but have 2 issues I need some help with.

The gaskets which were caked to the float bowl are unsalvageable. As a result i need to either make or buy new ones....any tips out there on places to do this? Have heard Lordco may be an option.

Next item tripping up progress ....2 of the fuel inlet needles have a little quirk, the spring teats seem stuck, in a compressed position and not "springy" - are there any known remedies to this (is there anything it can soak in to dissolve what i think is the gunk inside) - other than replacement?

Thanks for the help

 

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewforum/f=23.html
Anything you need will be here.

 

I would replace the needles & seats while you are in there, could save you grief later (setting fuel levels ect)

 

If you want to make your own Lordco and Canadian Tire have sheets of gasket material that can be cut to spec.

 

PUT YOUR BIKE INFO IN YOUR SIGNATURE!

I keep forgetting you have a 550R.

Manual: what are you working with?

Email: PM me with your email address, I have all sorts of cool 550R stuff I can share.

What kind of compression numbers did it make?

I might have some less-battered head pipes you can have for the cost of shipping, depending on how "pristine" you're going on the resurrection.

And I have plenty of the head pipe flanges; again just the cost to ship. You can pick thru my boneyard although I've already put a lot of parts on a lot of member's bikes.

I do love my 550 Secas.

New pic: final ride of 2013, on December 28, seen here first, and no, it's not a retouched photo: