Gas tank rust removal

What is your guys opinion on the best way to remove rust from a gas tank? I've heard and researched several different ways electrolysis, boiled out, put nuts or bolts and shake the crap out of it, even one where the guy used distilled water and sand!! Just curious on what you guys think work best. Thanks

 

Don't put in anything in there (like aquarium gravel for instance) to shake around, you'll go crazy trying to get it all back out.

It depends on how bad the rust is. In my personal experience, I've done a 550 Seca and a 650 Seca tank, both lightly-to-mildly surface rusted inside using phosphoric acid (concrete "etch" from the lumberyard or home improvement store) with outstanding results. (AFTER learning my lesson about the aquarium gravel idea with one of them.)

More serious rust generally requires more drastic measures such as electrolysis, etc.

 

I did try some nuts they weren't too bad to get out. They didn't do a real good job though. I knew the sand sounded like a bad idea lol. It's probably considered moderate surface rust. The acid might do what I need it to. Do I just dump it in straight? How long do I let it set?

 

If you do acid, it's the rinsing, drying, re-oiling steps that are critical.

I would assume you would vary the level of acid and the time (applied) to remove the amount of rust that you have.

This would actually be a good time to use WD-40, followed by oil.

"do acid" - lol

 

Lol yeah I caught that! What would you rinse it with? Then coat it with like motor oil?

 

If you want to use something use an old chain! Easy to retrieve...Electrolysis works well - do a search on this forum

 

Never thought about a chain that probably works pretty good

 

I used the product pictured below. I used two jugs (per tank,) dumped it in "straight" and let it sit for an hour, rotated the tank a bit, another hour, rotated again, another hour, etc. for most of an afternoon.

Then I flushed it thoroughly with water, then WD40 (you can buy it in qt. cans and displacing moisture is why it was invented and the only thing it's good for.) Then blew it all out with my shop vac and then followed it with a "slosh" of a mixture of gasoline and motor oil; then a rinse with "lawn mower" gas, then a full tank of premium.

I used multiple layers of aluminum furnace tape (pictured) but you might want to fabricate or buy (chacal carries them) blockoff plate(s) for the opening(s.) Remove and tape over the gas cap opening.

 

Ok cool thanks Fitz. Looks like this might be my snowed in day to try to derust my tank since we got about 10 inches of the crap! Lol

 

Evaporust works great

 

I second that ^. I haven't tried it in my tank yet but I am confident it will work. Was going to try what Fitz recommends but bought a gallon of Evaporust a couple weeks ago to test on some parts while I changed front and rear wheel bearings. Don't know what's in that stuff but it's amazing on rust. Couple days in the stuff at room temp rust damn near will wipe off.

Roc

 

I got an issue with my tank. I thought it was just light surface rust on the outside. But I gave it a rub down ready to treat and prime for spraying anf noticed some tiny holes in the bottom of the tank. So I guess the will have gotten into the tank from them right? And once the rust is treat, is there anyway I can seal them without welding/replacing the tank?

 

this is what you need...

http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Restoration_c_17.html

CN

 

newb21, by the time you poke around those tiny holes your going to have a big hole. plumbers solder and a sheet metal patch can fix a lot of things like that

 

I had a bang around the holes, the metal has thinned, but is pretty stable, other than the holes. The POR15 pack comes with a reinforcing patch so I think I'll give that a go. Say's it's a permanent repair

Thanks guys.

 

I can't imagine how you could properly position a patch inside a tank. Time for the soldering iron otherwise it will all end in tears

 

you would cave in the area in question in a little, solder on the patch from the outside and let the Bondo guy worry about making it look right. more work but i don't have much faith in liners

 

if the holes are just pinhole, then the por 15 doesn't need any outside patching, it will fill them on its own.

CN

 

After alot of thought and advice from here I think I have ultimately decided to take my tank to the local radiator shop and have it boiled out. Has anyone on here ever done this?