Oily Substance/ Dirt in Rear Brake Housing

Hey everyone- Just wanted to get your opinion on a recurring issue that keeps affecting my rear brake housing.

At the end of last season, my rear brakes were not functioning all that well. Asked a local mechanic to help me take a look as I didn't have a lift available at the time. When the rear wheel was removed, there was an oily substance and a lot of crud in the housing that was preventing contact between the brake pads and the contact surface. I cleaned out the housing, replaced the shoes and tried it out. It was not brake shoe dust- it looks more like engine grease. It was a temporary fix, and now I'm looking for a permanent solution.

All of the gaskets and the seals look good to go- there was no visible leakage from the final drive component.

Is there a gasket I'm overlooking? Is there a gasket that sits between the housing and the plate?

Is it worth it to purchase a new final drive component off of ebay in order to help further clarify where the issue lies? Thanks so much for any insight.

PS. The mechanic quoted me at $600.00 to replace the gaskets in the final drive assembly.

 

I have the same issue with my final drive since I took it apart to inspect the thing due to a different issue.

To be honest $600 is absurd, and you may not want to use that mechanic. I did mine on the garage floor in an hour with only a 12mm and 14mm socket.

There are bearings involved, and you need to be careful not to mess them up.

If your not mechanically inclined, it may not be worth it to do yourself, but I would find a different mechanic.

Look at the gasket cost through xj4ever at the top of the page. If I remember correctly, you'll spend like $80 max on the two gaskets and replacement crush washers for the final drive drain/filler bolts.

 

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/YamahaSe ... Shaft3.gif

After removing the rear wheel and draining the rear diff fluid, you crack the 6 bolts on the inside of the final drive hub.

Then loosen and remove the 4 bolts holding it to the swingarm.

Remove the final drive and completely remove the 6 bolts you already cracked.

Carefully remove this plate trying to keep everything level as it's withdrawn.

Replace the two seals (probably more like $50 total with rear diff oil), and assemble in reverse.

Nothing which involves 10 bolts should cost $600.

On the link above, you want parts 19 and 22.

 

Thanks so much for your feedback. On the diagram listed, it doesn't list the names of the actual gaskets (the listing starts at 24 for some reason and what I need is 19 and 22). Thanks again for your help; its greatly appreciated.
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use the xj4ever link at the top of the page. Easiest and fastest way to get the correct parts.