New member advice

Hey Guys, I'm a new member here. Love the site and information compiled! I feel like I've learned a lot already.

I just got my first XJ...1981 Yamaha Seca 550 (I've had Harleys in the past) and I've gotta say, I'm excited to see how this turns out! I've decided to do a cafe "brat" build, and I'm open to any suggestions/tips y'all might have for me. Ive currently got the tins, pipes and bars pulled, cut off all of the little brackets on the back of the frame and cleaned it up. I've got the wiring harness pulled apart, trying to track down the wires that I need to keep, and those that I can cut out. I'm not planning on running blinkers, or really any guages other than a speedometer.

The bike itself is in pretty good shape...the only repairs needed are fork seals, carb boots and an oil leak coming from somewhere near the exhaust...maybe valve covers?

Thanks again for any tips, and thanks for this great site!

 

Before you do too much cosmetic work, check your valve clearances and do a compression test to ensure you have a viable motor to begin with.

Seca 550 right side covers are like gold; if you're not going to use yours then I'm sure you wouldn't have trouble finding a ready buyer. Likewise original exhaust systems/mufflers.

Be careful cutting up the harness; there are some features that are somewhat counter-intuitive (like the "diode block.") Eliminate the wrong component and you'll have some entertaining issues.

 

I appreciate that! I'm looking at the wiring right now...going through and labeling what I need to keep, but this wiring harness is ridiculous. I'm getting all sorts of turned around. I was wondering if it would be easier to strip it all out and rewire what I need...but then there are components like the diode block...no idea what they do, and if I need to keep them or not.

Also, the seller started the bike up for me before I bought it. It was about 5 degrees (F) so it was pretty cold blooded, but it sounded strong. No oil smoke, funny noises etc.

When you say right side cover...you're meaning the plastic battery cover?

Thanks again for your help.

 

yes, the battery cover is a very popular piece because they have a propensity to come off on the highway. they come off because they crack at the rear where they grab the grommet. if yours is not cracked, it is worth a decent amount of money to someone. I recently saw one sell on ebay for $71 plus shipping.

CN

 

That went cheap.

Going price for a 550 Seca RIGHT side cover is usually over $100 if it's in undamaged condition.

We have a sometime-member in the UK that went to all the trouble to make up molds to make replicas, but then he got a bee in his bonnet because orders didn't immediately flood in. But the price still worked out to around $100.

Myself, I like my 550 Secas either pretty much stock, like my '81:




Or "lightly" modified (my daily rider, an '83) this pic is from December 28, last ride of last season:




But then again, we've seen some really nice Cafe jobs on the site as well. This one's my favorite:




Here's his build thread: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=43430.html be inspired!

Welcome aboard. The site's not all "shafties," we love a good 550 around here. Any flavor.

 

loving your bikes fitz. where can I get one of those rear bars like you have on the black xj? I think the wife would love one of those for her 550. I know I would, there is nothing back there to grab when setting the bike on the center stand. I suspect that's the reason you see so many rear fairings with the left side broken off. like this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-Yamaha-XJ5 ... f8&vxp=mtr

and this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-Yamaha-XJ-55 ... 11&vxp=mtr

I love the handle bars on brobergs café. but I haven't seen anything like that for sale and he doesn't list them specifically in his build thread. they kinda look like clubman bars but not quite.

CN

 

WOW! Gorgeous bikes there. I haven't yet decided if I'll be using the side covers yet, but that's good information to have. I'll see if I can post some pics of the bike. I usually have trouble due to the file size being to large, and I have no idea how to resize them.

As far as the oil leak goes, (I can try to get a picture on of that as well) oil doesn't pool, but the front side of the jugs is wet with oil from the bottom of the valve covers to a few fins below the exhaust. Are the valve covers a common leaky point on these engines?

 

RE: pics. Get a Photobucket account or equivalent; then the size and file size limits aren't an issue. My stuff all comes out of PB.

RE: Valve covers: yes. The cover is actually pressed against the gasket/head by the rubber/metal composite "donuts" on the hold-down bolts. Those bolts have stop collars to prevent overtightening, which limits how far they can go. The donuts do the work; if only the gasket gets replaced (common) it will continue to leak.

Valve adjustment is an every 5K miles thing: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html and once you replace the gasket and donuts you can re-use them for multiple subsequent adjustment checks. The original is usually dried out and dead.

 

for pics I use flickr.com and post bb code of the pics I upload to flickr. but before I upload tham, I crop and resize them to 1024x760 so they upload quickly and load quickly when viewed in the forums.

CN

 

Some pics

 

Thanks for the tips! I'll look for the gaskets and doughnuts. Hopefully that takes care of it.

When I bought the bike, it showed 19,xxx miles on it...what is considered high miles for these engines? Or perhaps a more accurate question (though highly subjective) would be how many miles before a major overhaul...assuming routine maintenance has been performed at recommended intervals?

I do really appreciate the help. My brother is also building a cafe bike. He's got a 1978 GS750...so far it sounds like he hasn't found a dedicated source for information and advice like this site. Lucky me! Now I just hope I'll be able to spank him...

 

Jb,

Welcome to the club. The diode block keeps current direct to its specific component. Should a particular component short or is damaged the current doesn't travel to and possibly ruin other components. Makes it easier to troubleshoot certain electrical issues. Hope this helps.

Roc

 

My point about the diode block is that while it's physically located in the headlight shell, the diodes IN it belong to various other circuits on the bike not related to the headlight.

The luggage rack on my '83 is a long out-of-production "period accessory" from the '80s; it's a GSM SportRack. I was lucky enough to find it on eBay.

As for the motor, 19K is still "young" yet; but assume that regular, required maintenance HAS NOT been done. Valve adjustment was commonly overlooked and should be one of the first things you check. We have a member with something ridiculous like 220K miles on a 550 that's had nothing but proper maintenace its whole life. Generally speaking, you're looking at 50K ~ 60K miles before needing a cam chain; and nothing else really as long as you keep the valves in spec and the carbs tuned.

 

Awesome! Good to know. I'll surely change all fluids, replace leaky gaskets and bring all the maintenance up to par.

Thanks for the electrical tips. I'm looking through the wiring diagram and I want to make sure that I'm not cutting out something necessary. I would have made a mistake with the diode block, and there are a few other components I'm unfamiliar with...such as...

Pickup coil
Ignitor Unit
cancelling Unit
start circuit cut off relay

I realize this makes me sound like I shouldn't be building a bike...I'm probably I'm not as helpless as I seem...I could just use some help identifying the definition and function of these. I'm sure I know the function of some of these under a less proper name. Thanks guys!

 

Pickup coil: The little units under the ignition cover that the trigger plate sweeps past to fire the ignition.

Ignitor unit: The TCI "black box" the heart of the ignition system; responsible for spark advance and firing the plugs.

Cancelling unit: The automatic cancelling unit for the turn signals. The stock turn signal system will shut off on its own once the bike has traveled "X" distance or been in motion for "Y" amount of time (I don't remember the exact parameters.) This component is what does that, in concert with the stock (proprietary) flasher unit.

Starting Circuit Cutoff Relay: Prevents the motor from turning over when the bike is in gear with the sidestand down, or in gear with the stand up unless the clutch is pulled in. It's part of a whole "safety interlock system" that (on the 550s) includes the sidestand switch, sidestand relay, clutch switch and cutoff relay.

What you shouldn't be doing is venturing this deeply into modifications without benefit of a circuit diagram, wiring diagram and SERVICE MANUAL.

Was the bike at least running halfway decently before you charged into cutting it up?

 

CN

 

Thanks for the info. The bike runs like a top. I wasn't able to take it out, for the ice covered roads, but it idled and throttled up smoothly. No funny noises or smoke. It had been the previous owners "daily driver". Actually quite a clean bike.

 

I wish you'd had a chance to ride it in stock trim, without the fairing, before you ripped into it.

Anyway, it's great that it ran good, but please don't neglect the valve clearances and proper carb service. Look in the "XJ FAQ Suggestions" forum; I've done all sorts of how-to's to supplement the manuals. You've seen my DR.

Oh, and CN is correct; I forgot the reedswitch. It's how the magical cancelling unit knows whether or not the bike is moving.

If you ditch the self-canceller due to a switch to silly ahem, er... sexy LED signals or somesuch hang onto the cancelling unit. No longer available; original MSRP $109.00.

 

I do also wish that I could have ridden it. I've only had Harleys (no stranger to working on bikes, just usually not stripping harnesses), and the seller kept commenting on how snappy this bike is for being a 550. He also raved about the way the bike sounded. Apparently between the engine and pipes, the upper register really sings. Something to look forward to.

I will be sure and save the reed switch and cancelling unit. I've also decided that it isn't worth stripping the harness down to the mere "6" wires that it would take to ride at a bare minimum. There's no sense in it. I'll either clip or zip tie the pigtails of wiring that will no longer be in use. The rest of the harness can stay put and be hidden by the tank and seat. I very much want this to turn out well, and would rather not get bogged down in the later stages trying to undo some wrongs done by taking out the wrong component.

 

The humble advice of someone who keeps things far too long, and changes his mind far too often: Don't clip the pigtails off.

 

Welcome! Our members have a plethora of XJ knowledge, and Fitz is our go-to guy for 550's, so you're in good hands!

 

Hey - Just wondering how thi is going, any updates?

I also pm'ed you, I'm wondering if you would sell some of your parts.