Who wants to rebuild carbs?!?

I am looking to get some prices for some to totally rebuild my carbs. I am talking about the throttle shaft seals and everything. I will be buying the complete kit for the carbs from chacal. Please let me know. thank you.

 

The person is you, and the price is free; plus you get to learn how to do something that you will be doing again if you continue with old bikes.

 

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... n+own.html
Or
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14692.html

 

Base, it's not hard. wanna come up, (or i can come out some day) and I can teach you?

actually, let me slightly rephrase that.... it is hard, if you aren't careful and/or legitimately don't know what you are doing. most of the knowledge is contained on this site, but everyone's comfort level is different. And if you do it wrong, you are in for a big headache....

 

if you want to ship the parts to seattle, I would be happy to do it for you. pm me to discuss the details.

it's not rocket science, but having the proper tools and some prior experience is a good idea.

and if you are interested I could powder coat them for you while I have them apart.

keep an eye out for updates to my DIY powder coating thread in the coming weeks...

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/diy-powder-coating.45324/#post-402837

CN

 

Ask Rick-O-Matic... He did mine and is one of the best I know of.
It will cost you about $300 but well worth it if you want them done right.

 

PM me. I am in South Jersey. I can either rebuild them or walk you through how to do so properly.

Typically you are looking at between $50 and $100 in gaskets, o-rings, fuel needles, and so on plus your time.

A successfully and completely rebuilt rack takes upwards of 10 hours. Most shops would charge $100/hr and not do it right, and anyone who isn't a shop will either want more than you can afford or won't do it right.

I personally recommend (and most others on here will agree with me on this) that you rebuild your carb rack yourself because that way YOU know it has been done right. Additionally you learn how they work and what causes problems so down the road when you have to store the bike for the wintry months we have been experiencing in excess you know what you need to tackle to get the bike back in top shape for the riding season.

Also take note that rebuilding carbs is only a third of the 'running bike' process - you must also adjust your valves with the appropriate shims AND finish by tuning the carbs to each cylinder, then each cylinder/carb combination to the other three.

All of that is assuming there aren't any other problems - most are easy to diagnose, but all can prevent you from riding.

Like I said, PM me and we can make arrangements to get YOU learning how to make your bike run right.

 

Let me start with, thanks for the all the help. I think I am going to tackle the rebuild myself. I am going to order HCP18863 Aftermarket Hitachi carb DELUXE COMPLETE REBUILD KITS from chacal.

I have already checked valve clearances and all are in spec. I did that first. This bike has been sitting for a little bit and I had the carbs off once and drained a did a light cleaning. But I think I rushed through it. I really just want to hear this thing fire up. It will be my first bike. And I will kinda be bring it back from the "dead".

So again thank you for your help.

 

Good...

Take your time, and take pictures, and those little labels on a string, great for identifying each item. Use 4 different containers for each carb. Have a few cans of carb cleaner, a welding tip cleaner kit (cheap, like $3.95 @ home depot) some green scour pads, and detail brushes. Really helps to have compressed air and a dremel tool with brushes. A hand held impact driver helps with stubborn screws.

Your going to need some silicone grease, Chacal carries it.

Best part of doing it yourself is that you will know it is done right.

Don't take all 4 carbs completely apart, do one, then on reassemble if you have a problem, you have the other ones for reference.

Hope this helps...

Make sure you have a good size area to work with.

 

The first time I removed the carbs I had 4 containers where I put all if the stuff in. Covers, diapharms, fuel bowls. Cleaned the jets in the fuel bowls and have carb cleaner shooting 20 feet from the jets. Sprayed cleaner up the tubes that go to the starters (choke). I even sprayed the holes on the side of the tubes. As this site says the carbs are Zestfully clean. How ironic I actually use Zest. But the bike won't start.

 

ATLANDF ALERT! :lol:

Hey when we find somebody to rebuild the OP's carbs we'll let you know...he can do yours! By the way, did I mention it will be double the price for you though? :twisted:

 

Three moving parts to the carbs, throttle shafts and butterfly, diaphragm, and float valve and floats. Bench sync the butterflies, then dry set/wet set the floats. The diaphragm needs to pass the "clunk" test.

Other than that, it is a matter of getting the carbs, orifices, jets and passages as clean as possible.

BE CAREFUL OF HOW YOU HANDLE THE CARBS WITH THE BOWLS OFF DUE TO THE FLOAT PILLARS BEING EXCEPTIONAL EASY TO BREAK OFF. I usually leave the bowl on until I am ready to work in that area of the carb.

If you have any mechanical ability, this is an easy project. Just stay organized, take notes, take pics, and mark everything so you know where it goes back.

have fun

hope this helps

 

Yeah. This is where I am with it and I am completely intimidated. Haha

 

trust me, once you actually do it, you will find that there isnt anything to be intimidated by.

Points of pain to look out for:
* work on an old white sheet or blanket in a well lit area
*if this is a first for the carbs, get 4-6 cans of carb cleaner
*dont skip ANY steps.
*get jis screwdrivers or easy outs and replace all the screws
*take pictures before you take that next piece off. I have probsbly 2000 pictures of various carbs on my phone.....
*organization- muffin tins (ok) bag + tag(much better), label directions. Each of the carbs have some slightly different parts
* valve shims - get a metric feeler guage. Not a standard with metric conversions. But a true metric one. Use the top and bottom of spec blades. No more figuring and guessing.
*carb jets are soft brass be careful
*carb pilot screws are soft brass. Soak with kroil or pb blaster. GO SLOW! You do not want to break off the tabs or strip these screws. Chacal sells stainless replacements. Worth it
*protect your float pillars
*when wet setting your floats, if you felt it bend, you bent it too far

 

So I took the carbs apart and I removed the diaphragms,needles,seats and floats and am having them ultrasonic cleaned. When I was looking at the jets, some are messed up by PO. Should I replace them? The ports are clear. Please advise.

 

By messed up, I suppose you mean the slot on top of the jets?

If you don't want to replace them, you could cut a new clean slot at 90 degrees to the other.

I would recommend you use a Dremmel with a cutting disk of the right thickness to match the screwdriver bit you plan to use for these jets.

If you don't feel confident with your skills to do so, have the slots cut by a machine shop or buy new jets.

 

Sorry that is what I meant. I wasn't sure if I should replace them or just go with it. I wasn't sure if that would effect performance.

 

Is there any need to disassemble the butterfly valve, if the carb will be soaked in Berryman's Chem Dip?

Does the Float Needle Valve have a rubber tip or is mine just 'that' dirty?

Is it safe to put rubber, plastic carb parts in Berryman's Chem Dip?
There is conflicting information when I Google Berryman.

Should I be as nervous as I am as a virgin traveling into the Church of Clean?

TIA

 

Base,

Sounds like your on track. Don't mean to HJ just want to try to aid Stump right quick. The butterflies will have to removed in order to replace the inner shaft seals and we don't recommend dipping a assembled rack. Chemicals like Chem Dip are great to use when they can be rinsed completely off a part. IMO the "hat trick" to our bikes is the carbs. Not extremely difficult but until you learn how to set them up, dial them in and maintain them it will be difficult to keep her on the road. Hope this helps.

Roc

 

OK now, slow down.

First off, unless you removed the butterflies and extracted the throttle shafts, the carbs are not fully disassembled and should not be submerged.

If you want to truly and completely rebuild the carbs, you do need to remove the butterflies and throttle shafts so that you can replace the throttle shaft seals.

As for buggered up jets, examine them very closely. If the inner walls are scratched, or the openings to the bore are all torn up and not smooth anymore, the jet won't flow properly. Be sure somebody hasn't "cleaned" them with a drill bit.