new paint... im starting to regret this

So today I decide was a good day to paint the maxim. Its an 82 xj650 that I picked up for 60 bucks three years ago in shambles. It didn't run no spark, carbs were full of green fuzzy stuff and just about nothing worked brakes, lights and all the cables were froze up. The bike was a lovely shade of puke green than was clearly spray paint. It was so bad I thought it was going to glow the first time I rode it at night. Yeah it really looked like glow in the dar green. Last winter I did a full over haul on the brakes stainless steel lines and all. New wheel bearings, tires, and of course cleaned the carbs and replaced all the cables. I couldn't stand the color don I also did a quick bomb can job of my own. Well this year I decided to sand it down and and put a nice paint job on it. And this is where it got frustrating I sanded down everything smooth and went to spray the primer surfacer and instant curtling. :/ So I did the only thing I could do I bought some stripper and started working. Turns out there was no joke 7 coats of spray paint 3 coats of primer and the factory paint. It took 4 rounds of stripper and I was finally down to bare steel. The side covers were another story due to not wanting to damage the plastic it was alot of hand sanding. Well it got late but I did get the primer surfacer on after about 8 hours of work since I started and thats where it sits more pics and updates to follow.

 

Did the overhaul include the valves? But... I wanna c some pics what color are you doing? What kind of paint are you using also? I need to do my tank.

 

I will post pics soon I only have my phone and cant get them to up load so they will come tomorrow. Im using ppg paint and its a metallic black its actually a paint code off a cts-v I always have loved that color. And yes I have done the valves.

 

I rattled my tank last year came out real good, it took like 4 days but came out great. Pretty sure I just used a 2 part krylon. If done right it can come out pretty good. I used a combination of sanding methods but I did bring it down to the metal. The incredable irony of this is that in my shed this winter a gallon jug of copper based hydrocoat(very heavy) fell and dented the tank good. Good for you though hope it turns out good sounds like your on your way!

 

Ill never spray can anything of value again. Im useing real paint this time, andthe headache that the spray paint caused was not worth it. Spray paint never looks as good as the real deal it never fully hardens gets all gummy if u accidentally get gas on it and if u do decide to do it right it all has to come off.

 

Might want to check this post out....could help

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=45495.html

 

I may have been unclear im not useing spray can paint im using a high quality DuPont paintand dupont primer surfacer and primer sealer

 

I may have been unclear im not useing spray can paint im using a high quality DuPont paintand dupont primer surfacer and primer sealer

 

With what ever type of paint you are using, once you are satisfied with the finish, either clear coat or paint coat, I would suggest Spray-Max as a final finishing coat as it is gas proof and about $24 per can. One can did two coats on my tank, the badges and the side covers. Way cheaper than a body shop two part clear coat job.

Just a suggestion

hope this helps

 

Thank you for the advice I am using a base coat clear coat paint system so it will have clearcoat on it. And I work in a place where we do paint on our wreckers so I can do the work my self (with some asistance from some great people I work with) so cost is just supplies. All said and done the paint will ony cost me 100 bucks for the paint simply because of the color i wanted. Reducer hardener and both primers were kindly donated by the company I work for so it aint to bad. Just alot of work :/ but these maxims are great bikes I think im in love with mine??

 

Im sorry guys im not trying to come across as rude im doing all this on my phone so I relry to keep it short and sweet i greatly appreciate all of u guys on the forum

 

Im sorry guys im not trying to come across as rude im doing all this on my phone so I relry to keep it short and sweet i greatly appreciate all of u guys on the forum

 

It is all good...

Many on this site have limited resources to get work done so sometimes people here offer different and unusual ways to accomplish a task.

Generally though, they are all here because of the love of these bikes and to share the personal knowledge gained by owning and recommissioning these bikes with others that are just learning.

Hope your bike comes out as nice as you wanted it to..

 

A lot of the basecoat clear coat systems do not say they are fuel proof. The clear coat Bruce suggest is fuel proof. Chacal also has a nice write-up explanation of the strip, sanding, prep, primer, paint and seal system required to accomplish a good paint job whether rattle can or with a gun. He also sells the necessary stuff to do it. Hope this helps.

Roc

 

If he is using an automotive 2-part clear, it will be fuel proof. I would go with Kyle's approach with sticking to same brand through out. There usually is no problems with mixing/matching primers/base coat/clear coat, but every time you mix manufacturers you increase the risk of non-compatibility. Sure, the company may refund your money for the paint you used, but not for messed up paint job or your time and effort. Like I said, if kyle is using an automotive paint with a 2-part clear, there really would be no added benefit to throwing the sraymax into the mix... JMHO

 

Yeah mad_bohemian you hit it on the head its a lot of effort to prep and I would really hate to mess it up on the final coat it would probably make me give up on the paint all together haha I have over 50 labor hours into it where im at but as we speek im laying the top coat so today she should be dont I really wish I could ride today though fist day abouve 60 since October

 

Well let me be clear, if I had a bodyshop with a down draft heated paint booth with a paint supply room with a professional choice of primers, color coats, clear coats and the air guns to accomplish a professional paint job, I wouldn't use a can of Spray-Max either.

However, not having any access to that stated above, and limited on funds, and a dirt floor shed to paint in, it was the best I could do to have a paint job that looked good and was gas proof.

I was just offering information that helped me prior to knowing the whole story, my mistake.

 

Bruceb im sorry im not trying to make anyone mad I greatly appreciate everyone on this fprum without you guys my bike would syill be in shambles. But for the record I dont have a paint both or any other high end paint supplies yes it dupont but but there are diffrent grades of dupont paint as far as the gun is a cheep 100cc gun from carquest nothing fancy. And its far from a paint booth we are a full service wrecker service I pulled 3 heavy duty semi wreckers out sweeped and washed the floor threw some paper over a bench and painted I could have done it in my garage at home with my 2.5 pancake compressor. And cost yeah supplies cost money but they do no matter how u do it.. I feel like im being treated like a spoiled brat because im using actual autp paint? Anyone can do it I had no experience before this project. So guys at work gave me advice and I went on u tube. Im simply sharing my experience and what I think I did wrong for everyone to see isnt that to point of a forum? I was just trying to add the the forum that helped me so much

 

i painted my own stuff with two part single stage dupont, single stage because if i got it right the first time i wasn't pressing my luck for a clear coat.
15$ harbor freight gun, prep prep prep, read all the instructions twice, set the gun up on some plywood and go for it.
the best way to cut the cost is get the same color as your car, now my old ford ranger and my bmw match. and if i ever get a toyota fj i'll make sure it's blue like the seca

 

I'm not mad...not at all...nothing to be mad at...just clarifying for mad_bohiem why I posted about Spray-Max.

I hope your bike turns out just the way you want it.

This forum is for information, assistance and camaraderie.

Often much is lost in print that would be understood in a face to face conversation.

Good luck to ya

 

Thank you bruceb and your comment is still use full for anybody else that may happen to read this thread so your more than likely going save someones effort because they listened to you this painting can get very stressfull the devil is in the details :/ hopefully will have pictures tonight

 

I understand completely Bruce. When I started painting my own stuff they didn't have anything like the Spray-max clear, or I would have used that instead. I'm glad they have that option now, it helps out guys who don't have the space or funds for a compressor and gun, line drier etc...
I was just clarifying that most 2part clears are fuel proof already, so there would be no additional benefit to adding the 2k, but there is potential risk...

and p.s. we all know you're not mad.. that's ME !! see the name over to the left there... LOL :lol:

 

Kyle, you are doing the best solution for the price. The only thing you need to make sure is that the clear coat you use is a two part urethane clear, this is very fuel resistant. Just like the Spray Max 2K (which I'm sure is urethane type). I purchased some two part urethane clear from my local automotive paint store. The clear coat and activator for around $60.00. That is more economical than buying 3 cans of Spray Max for around $75 plus shipping. The reason being that you will have enough left over to do 4 bikes. And with the Spray Max, once you hit that button and mix it, you have 48 hours to use it and then throw away what you don't use. With the automotive type its good for a couple of years if stored properly unmixed. Don't get me wrong, the Spray Max is a great way to go and gives awesome results for anyone that doesn't have the spraying equipment.

Just throwing this out there to contribute to the discussion and give other options. I had my body work done professionally (on my KZ, haven't got to the XJ yet) but painted some other parts myself. I made sure the guy who painted my body set used the urethane 2 part clear coat as well.

Here are some tools and paint I used.

I used the Preval spray system which can be purchased at Home Depot for around 10 bucks.

Here is the instructions I used from a member on another forum I frequent:
PreVal Painting Method This guy painted his whole bike this way and it is one of the best paint jobs I have ever seen.



Below: My home made spray booth. Painter's plastic with PVC tubing frame on top. Frame is assembled using cotter pins for easy disassembly and storage in the attic.




Below: Used Duplicolor black base coat.




Sorry if I got this thread off track. I hope the information is helpful and relevant.

 

what were the conditions when u were painting? like what was the temperature where u were painting? if it was cold paibnt will curl up like that. also was the surface properly cleaned before spraying? any dust or things like that will effect the paint. just some things to think about. also depends what type of paint was on the tank before and what u were putting over it, sometimes that can effect the paint. hope u get it figured out.