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FJ600 Rear Caliper Rebuild Couple of ?'s

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by tmrastatter, Apr 4, 2014.

  1. tmrastatter

    tmrastatter Member

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    Time for a rebuild for my rear calipers and brake hose replacement (dated 11/1984). Do I need to split the caliper halves to get the pistons out? They are not leaking, I just want to get them right. In a normal rebuild, what needs replaced? Just the rubber seals?

    My master cylinder is not leaking and it was working before the bike was basket cased. I really don't want to tear apart the master cylinder as a rebuild kit costs $85. Unless I hear something different, I am going to keep as is. The manual says that the system rarely needs to be disassembled ( I know it's 30 years later).

    Any thoughts would be appreciated
    Thanks
    Tom
     
  2. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    Not sure on whether the caliper needs to be split on the FJ as I'm not familiar with the type, but personally I'd split them anyway because in my experience it tends to make the job of cleaning out the seal grooves a lot easier if the halves are split on most calipers. (there's probably going to be some O-rings between the halves which you should replace too if you split them).

    In a "normal" rebuild... There's no such thing on a 30yr old machine (again, in my experience) but generally rebuild kits come in two types, one just has dust and fluid seals & the other has seals plus pistons. You can't know for sure until the calipers are apart but usually the pistons are re-useable if the caliper isn't seized.

    The master cylinder, well it's your call at the end of the day but seeing as you're rebuilding non-leaking calipers for the peace of mind of knowing they're right, wouldn't you do the same for your M/C's too? I know $85 is pretty steep for a few bits of steel & rubber (probably be able to get a better price online somewhere, ebay?) but then can you put a price on your safety? What it comes down to in my mind is 30yr old rubber & potentially abrasive rusty crud under 1000's of psi versus new rubber & clean smooth parts under the same pressure.
    Just my 2 English pence on the subject anyway :)
     
  3. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You have to do the master cylinder(s) too; that's all there is to it.

    Renew everything else and the M/C becomes the weak link in the system. Master cylinder AND caliper seals were supposed to last FOUR years. Thirty is a tad way beyond any designed-in margin of safety. If the caliper pistons are in good shape, then all that will be needed parts-wise would be seals and new pads. Plus new banjo bolts and crush washers for the lines of course.

    You really want to risk your life to save $85???
     
  4. tmrastatter

    tmrastatter Member

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    No, my life is worth more than that :)
     

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