stupid question re: syncing carbs and blocking YICS

I think I remember BigFitz saying that the bike should be thoroughly warmed up prior to syncing, like 10 mile ride warmed up. I'm concerned that once the bike is that warm (hot), it'll melt the rubber seals on the YICS blocking device that I got from Len, or make them sticky, making the tool impossible to remove. Should I be concerned? I already destroyed one set of seals just from the YICS passage having crud in it. I've since cleaned it, but those seals seem fragile.

Incidentally, the bike runs well but is sometimes hard to start and the idle is more of a blurble than a purr. I'm hoping a good sync will remedy that.

Thanks in advance!

 

You have to remove it every so often between adjustments and let it cool off.

I usually colortune and sync at the same time, and I remove mine in-between colortuning, so it has a chance to cool off while I'm fiddling with the different plugs.

 

Valves in spec before trying to sync?

I always make sure the YICS passage is clean first; and then I slather the YICS tool seals with motor oil before installing it.

That being said, yes; the seals are a tad fragile in a hot motor.

 

Lubing the tool sounds like a good idea. I was considering greasing it, but motor oil sounds like it would leave less goo behind.

Valves are in spec, carbs are as clean as I can get them without breaking the rack, float levels are wet set. I do have a spare set of carbs that I will be completely rebuilding including throttle shaft seals and fuel line o-rings, just not there yet. In the meantime the bike is running reasonably well, just hoping to get that sewing machine type of idle and maybe easier starting.

Speaking of starting...when the bike is cold it seems like I get one shot at easy starting but if I screw that up and/or it doesn't lite, then it's really hard to start. For example, it usually starts right up (when cold) so long as the choke is completely on. But suppose I forget to choke it. Then it starts ever so briefly but dies immediately. I'll realize Oh Snap, forgot the choke. But choke it now and it's hell to start. I can use starting spray to get it going, or I can go have a sammich and it'll start when I'm done. Is it reasonable to hope that once I get a really good sync and color tune, this'll get better?

 

It sure should.

 

You may not want to hear this but your problem may be caused by the floats not yet perfect. That, and the sync and color tune not yet being done. Use the motor oil on the YICS tool and put a fan in front of the motor. This will help keep the rubber from melting. Once you have it sync'd real close just pull the YICS tool out because I have found that there is no difference once the motor is close to being sync'd and you won't need the YICS tool from that point. Just my 2 cents...

 

No matter what you think these bikes are JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK. Whether it's CVCC or YICS they are both failed designs. I have no idea how they got it pass emissions. There needs to be a way to block that stupid YICS tube once and for all. The jets would have to be increased so that the engine will run right. My 83 Prelude was the same way. Never could get the Honda to run right. It ALWAYS idled way too high. Here again I fail to understand how they got past emissions in the US. Even the person that sell parts for the bike says the carbs are the main problem with these bikes. The team that designed these carbs should be arrested.

 

atlandf or atlandish or whatever .... You don't know what you are doing are talking about. You realy should not be able to say a word on this site. I would put my bike up against any other bike out there. Just because you can't get your bike to run right doesn't mean these bikes are junk. You are just a person that doesn't know what he is doing!!!!!!!!!

 

Only junk bikes I know about have the initials, "HD" in the name! Oops? Did I use my outside voice, again? LOL

Sorry, atlandf, I am going to have to completely disagree with you.

Rosie is 32 years old, Starts, from cold on a half choke, and is ready to rock in 30 to 45 seconds. I have no problem with my beautiful bride taking her all the way to San Anton, and back.

She is a blast to ride, and I ride an '06 FJR!

Also, I am a Honda nerd, and, again, I am going to have to, respectfully, disagree with you.

I have built, and rebuilt the A20A3, A5 and A6, B16A, B17A1, and those plants are awesome!!

Crazy HP, high sustained revs, and 30 MPG?? Yeah, I'm in!

Granted, they were a pain to work on, but man did they run!

I have an '04 Accord, with the K24A4 I-VTEC, and, again, what a blast to drive!!

Fix them right, get a good tune on them, and have fun!

 

Well that was frustrating. I was never able to get 4 to balance with 3. The others I was able to get to mostly balance, sort of, but it's a definite challenge. First, there's the pulsations of the rods to deal with. Someone once suggested that the restrictors that came with the carb-tune weren't restrictive enough and that I should improvise my own using the little red tube from a spray can, but the restrictors that came with it have a seriously small ID, smaller than anything else I could find, so I just tried to deal with the pulsations. But the settings also seemed to wander a bit. like 30 seconds later it would be off from what it had just been. Very frustrating.

Any ideas what could account for #4 lagging behind?

Just for the hell of it I did a compression test. My gauge is a harbor freight POS so I think the numbers are just flat wrong, but what I take from this is the comparison between cylinders. 1-62, 2-57, 3-57, 4-60. At least I can see that #4 is not the weakest cylinder.

On the plus side, I didn't have any issues with the yics tool. slathering it in motor oil helped immensely, and the seals on it survived.

 

Rick King, the HF compression tester does not have a schrader valve located right at the plug side of the compression hose. Without the valve as close to the cylinder as possible means you are adding volume to each respective hole which results in artificially low compression numbers. You can eventually build up the pressure doing it this way by just continuing to crank over the engine but you probably don't want to have to keep putting your battery on a charger. I too traveled down this same road you did. The HF tool banged out low 80's across each hole but the engine ran very well. I switched to a different compression gauge which has the schrader valve on the spark plug end of the hose and numbers now showed mid 140's across each hole. Time for a gauge upgrade.

 

Rick; #4 carb is on the "upside" when the bike is on the sidestand; and depending on how it was "stored" (or not) while it sat, the #4 carb could have been subjected to direct sunlight, moisture, etc., that the others might not have.

That being said, when "everything" has been done to a rack of carbs EXCEPT replacing the throttle shaft seals and it continues to have issues, well... what else is left?

Carb #4 is probably in serious need of throttle shaft seals; and quite possibly moreso than the other 3.

 

Fitz, you're right, you're right. It makes sense. I was just hoping to not have to go there.

 

NOTE*** when doing throttle shaft seals on Mikunis, you'll need to file off the "butt" ends of the butterfly screws. They're split peened/swedged to prevent loosening and if you simply unscrew them you can ruin a shaft.

Order new screws; and secure with Loctite.

 

Thanks. I'll need new throttle shaft seals, new butterfly screws, and new fuel rail O-rings, right? Seems like I read about some plastic washers embedded in the linkage somewhere. Want to make sure I have everything before I get started. Were the butterfly screws the ones that required some special screwdriver?

 

Oldbikerdude I owned two Yamaha's in the past and they have not given me all the problems this piece of junk has. I had a Yamaha Exciter the same bikes that Harley used to take the test on. That's how I got my motorcycle license. It had a starter issue. All I needed to do is drift start it or bang the starter. I also had a Yamaha 650 Special. I NEVER did a thing to them. They always started no matter what the weather was. Both of them fired right up. It didn't matter if it was 20 degrees out or 90 degrees out. The XJ's don't like to start when it's cold. I feel bad for the people that have their carbs off over 6 times and the bike still won't start. I look down over the list of stuff the person has put on and still won't run right. Even the parts guy on this site said the carbs are junk and they are the root of all problems with the bike.

 

He most certainly never said anything of the sort.

Did you ever get your Chineese scooter started? Did you figure out how to make the CVT shift?

"altlandf10 months ago

I have a 2007 Bemine scooter with a 150 cc engine that sat quite a long time. How do you start it? What is on the left side of the bike? Is this how you shift the bike? I tried to start the bike by crossing the solenoid but I got nothing."

http://www.youtube.com/user/altlandf/feed

 

You wanna hear something really funny?

My daughter bought a 2008-model Chinese scooter for basic transport. It had "PO issues" to put it mildly. (This dude was seriously bad news; I invented some new deleted expletives.) So she called her dad of course.

Guess what? The silly thing runs fine now, starts on first kick even when cold and/or wet. She's been riding it mercilessly.

Go figure.

Oh, and I PM'ed Rick about Mr. Debby Downer. Enough is enough.

 

Anyone want to take altlandf's bike and straighten it out for him?

Dave

 

To be honest, I enjoy the rants - they make me laugh.

No one takes him seriously, so its just like the d-bag on the playground that mocks the kids that know how to swing, when he doesn't.

This is my fave from the youtube link:
"altlandf replied to a comment from Dee Kay
How? Natalie is way better then Savannah not to mention Savannah doesn't act her age. She is what 40 but she acts like she's in her teens."

I don't even know who those people are, so he has one up on me there :wink: