Big problems please help

I was riding my bike and and the engine was running and had full power but the bike wouldn't go all the sudden near the gear shift there's a hose and smoke started to come out and there was no power to the back well I think I either blew my shaft or pardon my French but f***ed up my tranny there was also a weird smell I don't know how to describe it

 

I'd be more inclined to think the shifter is jammed between gears, possibly due to the primary chain guide beginning to break up.

The hose near the gearshift is the crankcase breather.

 

I can change gears tho

 

So I'm trying to understand what exactly your problem is...
Kinda sounds like you're saying that your back wheel won't turn.
Have you checked your rear brake shoes for delamination?
If not, take a look at this:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

 

I can change gears

 

Ok so when you put it in gear and let out the clutch to take off, what happens? Nothing? Like it's in neutral?

 

The wheel can turn just fine there's no power getting to the back wheel the bike will start but when I put it in gear no power I don't move yeah like the bike is in neutral

 

Clutch?

 

How exactly were you riding at the moment? Cruising down the highway, or revving the engine in neutral, or doing burnouts/wheelies, ripping up the road at redline, sitting at a stoplight in gear but with the clutch lever pulled, etc.......

May give a better idea of what to start looking at.....

Are you sure it's actually shifting through gears, or just the shifter moving

Simplest thing to LOOK at is;

put the bike on the center stand
pull the U-joint boot back far enough to see in to the joint
wedge the boot so you have a hand free
rotate the rear wheel and watch to see if the u-joint turns. If it doesn't, then the shaft is broken. If it does turn, the shaft is ok, and something happened inside the tranny.

Morn than likely, you're going to find the shaft is ok, and you broke some gear teeth inside the case.

FWIW....... I'm west of you, just a little south of Utica.

Dave Fox

 

Probably the clutch. The slipping heats it up, the oil cooks, the oil smoke comes out the vent.

 

I can actually shift i was in 5 shifted to 1st then to neutral so I could have her toed and the bike started to feel like it was loosing a little power all day in the first 3 gears so I'd have to throttle down once I got it in to 4th it take to right off

 

Sounds like a slipping clutch or something related to it to me...

 

Could it be the final gear oil I I didn't change it and I don't think the guy who had it before me did to I just opened the cap and it smells kinda almost burnt

 

The gear oil has a funky smell anyways. Changing it is a great idea but I don't think that is going to solve your problem. I'm leaning towards clutch issue.

 

How would I check I have to take of the oil cover should I check it or wait and order the new clutch

 

If you just order parts without inspecting it you'll likely have too many/too few/wrong parts.

Pull the oil fill plug and sniff. If it smells strongly like roasted, aged, dirty ass you cooked the clutch.

Get a service manual. Follow the procedure to inspect the clutch.

Order the parts you need, plus new springs even if they measure good.

 

Only a true expert could be this poetic.

 

Put the bike on the side stand so that the oil does not come gushing out when you remover the cover, and pull the clutch cover off, check the plates.

I'm going to guess that the friction discs are glazed and the plain plates are blued/toasted.

If you feel the bike was "loosing power all day" I would presume it just kept slipping slipping slipping until there wasn't any bite left.

Unfortunately for you, letting it continue to slip all day and torching the plain plates tuned an easy 75$ fix into a much pricer one considering the need to buy new plain plates.

If you pull the clutch cover and disassemble the clutch pack to find what I have described, this is what you will need:

- New friction discs
- New plain plates
- New Clutch springs (may as well)
- NEW clutch pack bolts (5) - affordable and easy to source from your local yamaha dealer, were only 1.25-1.75/ea. iirc and you don't have to pay shipping costs compared to sourcing them online
- New plain plates (if you got really lucky and didn't blue/discolor them, clean them up with a scotch brite pad and reuse them.
- New clutch cover gasket or tube of ultra black RTV. (most times the original paper gasket will tear upon disassembly.

Notes: I like changing over to fresh oil/filter when putting in new clutch plates. NON synthetic or a semi synthetic approved for use with wet clutches is what you need or your brand new clutch will slip just the same. I've had great results with Castrol 4T 20w-50 paired with a Fram CH6003 filter. i would strongly suggest changing to fresh oil in your case considering how much you were roasting the plates.


- When you start the project, submerse your new friction discs in fresh oil, that way they'll be saturated and ready to rock for assembly.

- In lieu of a replacement gasket, i used a thin layer of ultra black RTV to seal the clutch cover, hasn't leaked a drop. - Make SURE that that the mating surfaces are clean and free of any residual gasket material.

- When using RTV, I torqed the cover down to 5 ft. lbs, then retourked to 7.5 ft lbs once the rtv fully cured.

- USE a torque wrench. The cheap HF ones work well enough if you don't have one yourself or know anyone who does. The cost of the wrench will easily be justified when you don't snap off a bolt on your bike while doing other maint, be one of the valve cover bolts, clutch cover bolts, clutch pack bolts, etc.

- IIRC (meaning check to be sure before taking my word) the clutch cover M5's crank down to 7.5 ft lbs, **SAME AS THE CLUTCH PACK BOLTS** - Many have snapped those failing to recognize the low torque value, meaning new clutch basket time and even more $$

- Personally, I would buy a new clutch cable at this time as well and get the adjustment dialed in perfectly, a well performing clutch is a beautiful thing, and being on the side of a road with a snapped clutch cable flat SUCKS. The one on there currently is probably 30 years old. Replace the thing, why not. I've been personally very pleased with aftermarket parts unlimited cables if you don't want to spend the bucks on a oem one.


I'll try finding fitz's clutch disc replacement tutorial thread, he took the time to document each step along the way with great easy to follow pictures, so I will try tracking that down along with Rick's clutch adjustment how-to thread.

One last thing, although their customer service SUCKS, the cheapest place I've found for EBC friction plates and springs is powersport superstore.

If you list exactly what bike you have (Or better yet add it to your signature like my bikes are seen on mine below vvv) I'll try finding the proper friction discs and springs for you.

Hope this helps and a belated welcome to the site!

Chris

 

Bazingo - Here you go, I should have just dropped this link and saved myself some typing as most or all of what I said is probably covered in his beautifully constructed step-by-step picture tutorial:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

 

Isn't that just regular Rump Roast?

Dave

 

And here is Rick's clutch adjustment how-to thread -

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... cable.html

Hope you get it sorted out and back on the road!

 

Thanks so much I'm gonna tear her apart and see the damage hopefully its not to bad got a ride planned for Saturday

 

I took the clutch apart surprisingly there are 3 friction discs are bad my others disc's look good my plain plates are dark I think it's from the oil they don't really look blue I think there just dark from being in the oil

 

Steel doesn't turn dark from being in oil, they got real hot.
Are they flat?

 

Yeah what I was thinking is the 3 plates that are bad I'll replace the plain plates too

 

Also what type of oil should I use for the final gear oil in the on the rear wheel

 

If 3 are bad their all bad, if the steel ones are flat use them.
Your springs are probably shot too.

 

How would I tell that there still pretty strong

 

Measure them. Or put new ones in and notice how much better your clutch works.
you don't need them for Saturday but plan on it pretty soon.

 

What I was thinking is replace the plates that are bad and then this winter I'd do a full clutch rebuild when I have home more money springs all plates and clutch cable

 

What I was thinking is replace the plates that are bad and then this winter I'd do a full clutch rebuild when I have home more money springs all plates and clutch cable

 

Can you actually buy separate clutch plates? All I've ever seen were kits with all the plates included. Also, a spring kit is inexpensive ($10 on eBay right now) and will help you to keep the new clutch from getting cooked.

 

Yes I just got the new ones and I'll look into it

 

If you're going to have the clutch cover off and the clutch apart, you might as well just rebuild the whole thing.
Just my opinion, but usually a half-ass job will give you half-ass results!

 

I would but money is the only thing stopping me

 

I would but money is the only thing stopping me

 

That's false economy; it will only get more expensive. If you put it back together with some good parts and some failed parts, the new parts are just going to get destroyed.

If you plan to re-use the steels (plain plates) clean them up with Scotchbrite and check them for warpage (lay them on a sheet of glass.)

The friction plates need to be replaced as a set; and although you can probably get away without replacing the springs immediately, you will need to do it soon.

 

If I run it the way I wanted to do u think I could by for a month they other friction plates don't look so bad

 

what bike do you have? let's start there.

 

1982 maxim 650

 

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/EBC ... 104837.htm

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/EBC ... m?CartID=3

 

Thanks I'll wait and buy them

 

How long should I soak the plates for

 

Just put them in fresh oil when you start the job and when you're ready to put them in you'll be set. Some people don't even soak them and have no issues. It's just a why not kinda thing.

 

Final drive oil in uk Hypoid gear oil, not sure what you use or call it your side of the pond?

seem the only question that has'nt been answered.

 

I got the plates rush order I tried to reassemble the clutch and there is something not right about how the cover that holds the plates in doesn't sit right its almost like there's something missing inadvertently because the center screw doesn't sit right it doesn't grab the cable tight enough to pull the the clutch lever back any suggestions

 

Are you referring to the pressure plate not sitting correctly? and I am assuming the "center screw" is the D-shaped pull rod? What I don't understand is what cable you are trying to grab? Just rebuilt my clutch this past weekend, I would recommend reading this post as someone mentioned earlier, (http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html) 2-3 times, disassembling and starting reassembly again. Just follow bigfitz's great step by step instructions. Worked wonders for me.

 

I edited my post to make it easier to understand

 

Do you have the clutch cover installed? If so, my thinking is you will just need to readjust the lever arm. Another great how-to, http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... cable.html

 

imo like ntr said follow the write-up. the plates have to be installed a particular way. the spring bolts cannot be over torque. the throw out rod needs to be turned cw as far as it will go prior to slipping the swing arm back on the spline (both have alignment marks). hope this helps.