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Clutch rebuild

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by HeckticHaze, May 7, 2014.

  1. HeckticHaze

    HeckticHaze Member

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    Quick clutch rebuild questions. On the Seca 750 do you have to drain the oil completely before pulling the side case? I thought I read on the Seca 550 if you had the bike on the kickstand you can leave the oil in it. Was not sure if this was true with the Seca 750. How long should I soak the friction plates before assembly? Do you polish the metal plates that are in between the friction plates or just remove any buildup with a wire brush? When removing the case do you lift upward and out to disengage the the rotational pin that the clutch cable is attached to? Any help would be appreciated.
     
    HeckticHaze, May 7, 2014
    #1
  2. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    put some 1 inch boards under the tires, then you know it will tip over far enough
    i never soaked clutch plates but i'am a heathen
    no polish, ruff them up if anything, a wire brush would be fine
    once you take the clutch arm off the shaft will rotate as you pull the cover off
     
    Polock, May 7, 2014
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  3. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    upon re-assembly rotate the spline cw as far as it will go prior to re-attaching the swing arm. this will give the clutch rod full throw out. hope this helps.
     
    rocs82650, May 7, 2014
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  4. mtnbikecrazy55

    mtnbikecrazy55 Active Member

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    Hit the plain plates with scotchbrite.

    just drop them in a container of oil when you start the disassembly process and you'll be a-okay
     
    mtnbikecrazy55, May 7, 2014
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  5. HeckticHaze

    HeckticHaze Member

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    Guys, thanks for the feedback. If I can get some decent weather one of theses weekends I will tackle this project. I did find Fitz "clutches 101" writeup. Does anyone know if the clutch layout diagram in the Haynes book is correct?
     
    HeckticHaze, May 8, 2014
    #5
  6. HeckticHaze

    HeckticHaze Member

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    Another question, when you install the clutch pressure plate bolts do you use anti-seize compound? I keep reading how easy these bolts can be broken.
     
    HeckticHaze, May 9, 2014
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  7. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The "layout" is simply plain plate, friction plate, plain plate, friction plate, etc.

    The Haynes is largely correct (they simply lifted a factory diagram) except that some parts (24, 25, 27) don't quite look like that. Their coverage is quite good to be honest; I did my piece because the Clymer (the aftermarket 550 book) didn't properly cover the intricacies of reassembly.

    A dab of anti-sieze on the bolt threads wouldn't hurt. The biggest problem is using a torque wrench that's accurate at that low setting so you don't break anything. And be sure to align your dots.
     
    bigfitz52, May 9, 2014
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  8. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    you'd be much better off putting some blue loc-tite on the bolts and use a torque wrench
     
    Polock, May 9, 2014
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