valve shims

I got around to checking my valve clearances today... only took a cpla years... anyway Im (not) happy to report that ONE is within spec! WooHoo!
So now when I change the shims around (assuming I can) do I have to retourqe stuff to check with new shims?

 

No. Swap out the appropriate shims, then spin the crank counterclockwise for a few revolutions so the cams put pressure on the shims, then remeasure to make sure you got them all correctly. Then just replace the cover. Done.

 

Pilot smack is correct, swap them around, rotate a couple times to seat the new shim and remeasure the clearance.

Get the shim removal tool from XJ4Ever and then do the following.
Record your current clearances and pull the shims one at a time and record what size shim is in each location . . . Do the math, or cross reference the table in the manual and you may find that you only need a couple of new shims and can get away with playing swapsies to get everything back in-spec.

If you have some basic skills in Excel you can set up a simple spreadsheet that is convenient for keeping track of clearances and shims. I made one last year and this year it was a quick and easy reference to historical data.

Here's a link to Fitz's awesome write up, if you haven't already found it.

 

based on his sig he has an x so he might have to torque them back down

 

The shim bucket hold down tool is not required for the maxim x. What IS required is removal of the camshafts to get the pads (shims) out since they are UNDER the buckets. Here's a couple of links that may help:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=16298.html

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29661.html

 

i did my suzuki over the winter and i think the shim under is easier.
don't check them when your done, measure twice before you start
just be sure to use a 1/4 inch torque wrench

 

Oops, didn't read that part. Not the first time I've screwed up, won't be the last

 

I'm glad you said not to check them after changing the shims. I recently put the clearances in spec on my maxim x and after getting it all back together the clearances were all out of whack. Even the ones that I put different shims in ended up reading tighter than before. It didn't make sense...and almost drove me nuts thinking about it.
So I figured it would just need ran to settle everything down tight. Besides, I really didn't feel like pulling the camshafts out again. And I was 100%positive I had all the measurements right...I checked them 3 times before pulling the cams.
Never had that kind of issue with the shim over bucket design tho.

 

Thanks for the replies. It is in fact an X so out come the cams. Hopefully i can swap a couple of the shims out and not need 19. And I just didnt wanna have to go get a torque wrench yet lol. Thanks again guys. You are always a big help.

 

Color me stupid . . . Sorry for the erroneous information.
I'll shut up now- only thing I know about an X is from the voice of the Reverand Billy G.:
Heard it on the X