Turn Signal Flasher...

I've read the threads on LED Turn signals but I just swapped out mine for smaller blub ones and they still don't flash... they come on just no flash.. seems like I'm not drawing enough power to trip the flasher.

Can anyone recommend a new flasher that would work here? I don't see a wattage on the lights or bulbs but they are the catseye, 2 inch type..

 

Lots of aftermarket signals come with low-wattage bulbs, usually 13W or 18W. If conventional 1156's will fit in them, just swap the bulbs.

If you replace the flasher you'll lose the self-cancelling feature unless you do some electrical engineering.

 

I don't care about the self cancel - I have thumbs.

thanks for the advice on the bulbs though... I'll see if this is possible.. if not what flasher would I use?

 

Bussman part number BP552

It is a two prong flasher. You will need the two prongs to match up to (IIRC) the chocolate wire and the blk/wht wire at the relay. The yel/grn wire is the one to the self cancel and doesn't get a prong.

If you use the more expensive three prong relays, you have to add resistors and the like, which you can do with the relay you already have.

So do yourself a favor if you go with changing the flasher relay and save $5 by buying the simple two prong flasher.

And do us all a favor if you replace it, don't throw that old flasher away, someone may need it.

Oh, and do yourself a favor and clean up the contacts and lube the switch with some dielectric grease, it will be much smoother to operate.

 

thank you very much Skaz - Appreciate you taking the time to nail that down.

When I replace it I'll post the old one up here for free.

 

Not a problem

 

old one is up for grabs...

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=46224.html

...please only if you're going to actually use it and need it....

 

Took 2 old OEM flashers apart and discovered they can be fixed pretty easily with a needle nose pliers if 1 or both flashers are not lighting up or just staying ON. Design is really old on '81-83 models and they have contact points like old style bike and car ignitions. Across from the contacts is an aluminum shaft near the coil and a notch is cut into the shaft so you can slightly bend the shaft up or down to adjust the flashing speed....worked great on 2 original 32 yr old flashers- one stuck in the left hand ON position and the other was completely dead with no action....both fine now!... :lol:

 

having the same problems except my front led signals dont flash and my rear ones flash rapid in a hazard pattern. I tried the original flasher, the 3 prong, and the 2 prong flasher all to no avail and all three different flashers have the same result and pattern from the signals. I still am working on figuring it out, any ideas? thanks

 

You will need to install load resistors, or use a no-load electronic flasher.

One option: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/car-install-supplies/g215-eb-universal-motorcyclescooter-electronic-flasher/788/

Since you only have the one signal indicator on your gauge cluster you may also need to splice in a pair of diodes to keep the feedback voltage through the indicator from causing all four signals to flash (or just pull the indicator bulb and do without it).

 

If you're connecting to an aftermarket turn-signal display then you've just lost your stock diode to stop one side from completing the cct at the display light for the other side.

I just did this and added diodes to stop this inline before the display bulb. What concerns me is that you're getting only rear flash - are the front ones lighting up but not flashing ? - if so then yes you may need load resistors along with the 2 prong flasher that k-moe linked... however there's no point testing the flasher before you add the diodes to make each side of the bike a separate circuit.

 

well i dont think i can switch the bulbs out of any of the signals they are very small and integrated into the display. Here are the links for the two sets i bought on ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/Motor...1c410172a9

www.ebay.com/itm/24-LE...5b&vxp=mtr

 

i actually have 2 1 amp diodes that i got from radioshack but i have not a clue as how to install them and into which wire to fix this problem. I dont have a soldering iron either or solder for that matter.

 

Do you have an aftermarket display light set-up for your turn signal / oil / high beam / neutral etc or are you running stock?

If so then go to radioshack and buy 2 x 1A 12v diodes and attach one to each wire going into the light on your display. Once you do this you'll have separated the left side turn signals from the right side so they are now two separate circuits again.

Now you will have the right pull through the flasher unit and can one that works for the LED's you have (probably the one that k-moe linked I would expect.

 

oh okay and im running all stock bulbs in the dash lights so do i need diodes?

 

The stock dash should have diodes already.. silly question... are you sure you plugged in the units to the right wires - one side of the bike should have different color to the other. On the XJ650 they are dark green and dark brown (chocolate). Left on one, right on the other.

 

i can swap them all real quick to make sure but im 99% sure i did i followed the diagram that came with the setup

 

good news i think.. I took out the turn signal bulb as k moe suggested and the rear lights now flash in accordion with each switch of right or left signal. The front signals still are steady beam though but they are also in accordion with which way you switch the signal right or left but stays steady light.

 

Your new / low-power indicators are not drawing enough current for the stock flasher to work. Lots of people suggest replacing the stock flasher, but doing so eliminates self-canceling function, so beware!

fwiw, I believe you can use the stock flasher with LED/low-power indicators if you drop one of these load resistors in, parallel with each of the indicator circuits:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/

Install them as below, but note that the stock bulbs draw about 25watts each for a total of 50w per side.. So, single 50w load resistor on the left and one more on the right, should do the trick.
https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/pdfs/LoadResistorBW-01.pdf

(You could also buy 4x 25w resistors and place them in parallel at each bulb, but the 50w resistors are the same price as the 25w option, and will provide the same net load on the circuit as two 25w resistors.

I've got some 1156 LEDs and these load resistors on order... I'll post back when i get them installed.

edit :: side note :: WIth these load resistors, you shouldnt need to re-wire the dash indicator with diodes, etc.. everything remains stock, execpt the 1156 bulbs, and the addition of the load resistors