contnuing problem with led signals?

hey guys i keep running into problems with my new led turn signals. I replaced the flasher with a new electronic 3 prong one and hooked it up as described in a sticky thread explaining the wiring code for it which got the two lights to stay on in the front and in the back they flash crazy fast in a hazard light pattern. I tried hooking up an extra wire to the negative eyehole and mounting it on the ignition bolt on frame to ground but this only made my signal fuse blow every time i would hit the brakes or try the signal lights. I was going to go out in a few minutes and exchange the 3 prong relay for a 2 prong but idk if that would help or not. Anyone have any ideas?

 

what's the name and number on your flsaher

 

el13 from advance auto

 

they close here in an hour where i live i was maybe going to go get the el12 model of it that has 2 prongs instead of the el13 which has 3 as you know

 

you have the right one el13. there's the drawing, X goes to +(on,off with key)
L goes to the TS switch, P goes to the dash light.
now what bike are we working on and i'll see if i have the wire colors

 

thanks alot for the help and i have an 83 xj750 mk

 

and i think i had those way off i had (-) going to x which was the all brown wire, the P on the flasher was for the self canceller green and white wire which i just plugged in the flasher even though i knew it wouldnt work due to prior knowledge from the forums on here, and the L on the flasher i had the brown and white wire plugging into.

 

you can forget the self canceller i don't think it's going to work with leds.
just the X and L should get the lights blinking

 

oh okay ill try that ill be right back going to the garage to check thanks

 

tried that still the same result the front signals no matter which way right or let you switch it they stay lit and the back flash crazy in the hazard formation hmmm..

 

i dont have anything hooked into the P slot on the flasher i left it blank how do i plug the dash light in that position? i thought the canceller went in the P slot?

 

the flasher doesn't know anything about cancellers.
i think you need to identify your wires, take a new wire from the fused side of the fuse box and touch it to the L front wire and see it light. do the same for the
L rear. then the right side. i think that will take care of some problems.
while your doing all that, unplug the TCI box, just in case.
don't need the key on, the wires your finding should go right to the lights

 

oh okay by the fused side do you mean the wires underneath the glass tubes inside? and which L wires do you mean the ones that i have hooked into the signal wires for the front and rear?

 

im still not sure what wire should plug into the P slot on the flasher that might be the problem i see it says dash light wire goes there but im not sure what color that is or where that is located. I only have the three wires from the old connector yellow green, brown, and brown and white.

 

brown goes to the switch, the brown/white goes to the signal 10A fuse, and that's where the yellow/green goes

 

okay im still a bit confused i have been tackling with this all day it seems lol so the brown wire just plugs into the flasher then the brown and white goes to the signal 10amp fuse located where? and the green is just left to dangle?

 

that's all there is to it. the signal fuse is one of those in the fuse box, at one time they were labeled. and yes the green one just dangles.
and it looks like my flasher needs some repairs

 

okay just checked one last time before i quit until tmrw. I found an all yellow wire leading to the signal switch does that wire plug in on the relay anywhere in the three slots? i looked in my fuse box and found the two brown wires going into the glass fuse for the signals. I followed those into the cancelling system then out and around coming out by the relay again. Im just trying to figure out the schematic according to your diagram.

 

As for the switch wire you mentioned is that the all yellow one i found? And looking at your picture you sent of yours it looks like you dont have the all yellow signal or dash light wire plugged in anywhere it looks like you had it exactly as i had it with the brown, brown and white, and yellow and green wires only in there. If it helps my indicator light isnt flashing either when i attempt to turn either on. Thanks

 

unfortunately i check my fuse wires and all my connections i followed my brown and white wire all the way into the signal switch on the bars and back into the relay, cut the green and white wire just like you had it and followed the brown wire all the way into the fuse box to the signal fuse im stumped now ;/

 

Bussman 552 two-prong flasher plugged into the Br/W & B wires and you're all set.

 

Thanks i think ill exchange this 3 prong for the 552 tmrw morning and give that a try. Is it as simple as plug and play though? it seems like a long shot seeing as all the problems ive had with this one. Who knows though ill try anything now lol

 

It should be. If your dash has a single light to indicate turn signals you may need to switch that bulb out to an LED. If you put the flasher in and NONE of the lights flash, this is the fix. If you're still getting the odd flashing/no flashing from the different lights, then we have a different problem.

 

oh okay what size led buld should i get for the dash light if maybe advance auto or somewhere local might carry it? And that is the problem im having the no flashing/odd flashing with rear signals in a hazard style thanks.

 

just bought a two prong flasher exactly as you described 12v 6bulb tskaz and still the problem persists i tried the wires in both slots L and X also. Im not sure why mines being so difficult ugh..

 

it does the same thing whether i put in the original flasher, the 3 prong i exchanged, and now the 2 prong, still the same two front lighted and back ones in a rapid hazard flash.

 

The original signals you took off, were they two-wire or three-wire?
I can't remember if the '83 Midnight Max had running lights or not.

 

That 552 flasher is a thermal unit, not for LED unless load resistors are used

 

um i believe only one wire going into it then the light bulb inside had a small ground inside, but besides that only one wire came out of the stems when i cut them with wire cutters to slide the housings out.

 

I don't think an LED in the dash will help the problem, but just FYI I think I used a 921 bulb. There are actually quite a few that will work. You just have to find the correct base, the wattage of the bulb doesn't make too much of a difference on these smaller bulbs.

 

hmm im confused ive seen people use the 552 or the three prong and have success. Like i said though all three flashers had the same result so i thought the 552 might work as a last ditch effort before serious wiring issues were looked for.

 

well i dont think i can switch the bulbs out of any of the signals they are very small and integrated into the display. Here are the links for the two sets i bought on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-LED- ... 1c410172a9

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-LED-Motorcyc ... 5b&vxp=mtr

 

good news i think.. I took out the turn signal bulb as k moe suggested and the rear lights now flash in accordion with each switch of right or left signal. The front signals still are steady beam though but they are also in accordion with which way you switch the signal right or left but stays steady light.

 

You will need to either add a load resistor to each of the front signals, or switch to a no-load flasher as I suggested in the other thead. Your LED's aren't drawing enough current for the flasher that you have.

 

okay will the new one i purchased here not work? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/trid ... /5060004-P

 

if not would the old el13 flasher i exchanged at advance auto for the two prong 552 relay work now? Im not sure which one would be a no load the el13? thanks

 

Both of those are electromechanical and will require some load to work. I can't say if either will work with your signals without knowing what the amperage draw is for each lamp, and knowing the minimum draw needed for the relay to work.

This one should work (pins look to be in the correct orientation), and you might be able to find one locally.
http://www.amazon.com/3-Pin-CF-13-Electronic-Flasher-Signal/dp/B008C9YJ6C/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1DEYPEEP4D3GV19K15PV#productDetails

 

el13 is a no-load flasher for LED's.
if the front stays on and the back blinks something it wired wrong on the bike. they are a parallel circuit just like the lights in your house, one switch two lights.
under the seat somewhere should be a connector for the left side(brown) and right side(green). should be 3 wires all the same color, one to the back signal, one to the switch, one to the front signal.
next time you check it out, unplug the tail/brake light, just to be sure.
leave the instrument bulb out and go get that el13 back

 

While the EL13 may work with some LED signals, it is an electro-mechanical relay and does require a load.
Tridon's 3-terminal no-load flasher would be part number LED03.

http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=478&P=104173

He needs to have the right relay first, then we can eliminate the possabilty that the front signals are wired incorrectly. I have had the fronts not flash, and the rears work properly, when switching to LED signals on a brand new bike and not using the correct relay.

 

Okay thanks for all the help I really appreciate it guys I know I'm close to getting all the lights working now. I don't believe the seller put the amperage specs for the signals so I'm not sure I'll be able to go off that when getting the flasher but the el13 should be my best bet I'm guessing. I'll check my wires again if your looking at the bike straight on from the backside In regards to left and right is the dark green wire for the right side and the chocolate one is for the left correct?

 

Well the back is an integrated 3 in one kit brake light, tail light, and signal, maybe since it draws current constantly for the rear running light that the running light already drawing amperage and the signals having that draw when turning on might have an extra boost to flash unlike the standalone front signals with no extra amperage to trip the flasher

 

I do have 4 led signals the led03 by tridon only mentions use with rear led signals?

 

The front signals are very easy to wire anyway the wire comes out of the headlight backing and is already at the correct side to wire then it's just a matter of grounding them like I did. There should only be one wire to hook the front new signals to coming from the headlight wire housing correct? The rear I wired correctly from the given diagram and also because the tail,brake, and signals in the rear function properly.

 

K-moe is spot on. You will Have to add resistance back to each circuit (front)(back) to get them to blink properly. Its necessary cost to convert to LED's
check out this supplier.
www.customdynamics.com/led_motorcycle_lighting_faqs.htm 8)

 

A no-load flasher does not require the use of dummy loads. You can go either route, but using a true no-load flasher will free up amps that can be used for other things. One other reason to not use dummy loads is that thye get freaking hot. If not mounted carefully they will melt plastics.

 

It will work with all four signals. Tridon rates that unit for up to 6 lights (two rear and four side markers). U.S. DOT (as far as I know) still does not allow LED signals on the front of cars, which is why Triton only mentions the rears.

 

Oh okay I see will any flasher relay that is 12v and has a load rating of 0.02-20amps work?

 

Would this one work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-Car-Flash ... fa&vxp=mtr

 

83midnightmaxim, have you seen this thread?

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... rt=30.html

the last post is where I made a schematic to illustrate how it all works. oh! and the self canceling works too!

CN

 

I just checked it out thank you i think the flasher is my problem now though im just trying to figure out if that ebay link above would work with the load requirements needed for the led signals mentioned by k moe.