Brake bleeding question?

I'm about to start to bleed the brakes (all new parts). Do I bleed the Anti-Drive first, then the caliper?

They both get bleed the same way, correct?

Thanks!!

 

Oh my. You are in for a treat. You (and I) have the most difficult brake system to bleed that was ever put on a motorcycle (aside from ABS systems).

I have found that bleeding the anti-dive first is the way to go, and it's easy to bleed. Getting all of the air out of the rest of the system takes a bit more effort.

Method 1 (my preferred method) Use a vacuum pump to bleed the system at the caliper, with the forks turned so the caliper you are working on is higher than the opposite side. You will want to use a few wraps of teflon tape on the bleeders to help seal the threads. Ignore the very tiny bubbles, that is from air leaking past the bleeder threads.

Method 2 (slower, but does work) Attach lengths of clear vinyl hose to each of the caliper bleeders , and immerse each of the hoses into a 1/4 filled bottle of brake fluid (to act as an air-lock), clamp or tie the brake lever to the grip, leave the master cylinder fill plug open and let it sit overnight. Bleed as normal the next day.

Neither method will get all of the air out. The final step involves using a hand sander (or other vibratory device) sans paper, to slowly work the remaining air bubbles up from the caliper, past the distribution block, and out of the master cylinder.

You may want to re-bleed the brakes after the first test ride.


Almost forgot. The clean method for filling the master cylinder is to attach a short length of clear viny tubing to the business end of a 2-cycle oil (or other) measuring syringe. Remove the plunger from the syringe, and use it as a very handy funnel. The vinyl tubing should be big enough that it fits snugly into the master cylinder fill hole.

 

I was actually going to use my mouth as the vacuum device.

I'm cheap.

I have moved the master cylinder to the handle bars as well. Hopefully that will make things slightly easier?!

 

I made a vacuum bleeder from a glass pickle jar and some tubing.
Punch 2 holes in the metal lid, use RTV to glue the clear vinyl hose.
Somebody gave me a 25' length of oxygen machine hose,
this gets connected to the intake of an idling car/truck,
which supplies a steady 10 PSI worth of vacuum.

This will quickly bleed the system thru, but then, you still have to get all the little, hidden bubbles out as K-moe said.

 

It will. Just remember to bench-bleed the master cylinder before connecting it to the upper brake line.

And don't suck on the brakes. Brake fluid is flavored with 100% natural nastiness, with a side of mouth sores.