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XJ650 Bar & Control Options

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by NEEDtoRIDE, Jun 25, 2014.

  1. NEEDtoRIDE

    NEEDtoRIDE Member

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    Hey guys,
    Been looking into switching out the stock bars on my XJ650 Max to something flatter (Euro, Daytona style) for awhile now but haven't pulled the trigger on it yet. After a few small problems and attempted fixes my clutch perch has a break in it and should be replaced. So now is the time it seems to ask for some help

    What kind of options do I have control wise? I've read about the problems from the stock master cylinder from the "buckhorn" bars not being level on a flatter setup, and the stock mirrors being pointed poorly. Isn't there a safety sensor involved within the clutch assembly?

    Would it be better to try to source full bars and controls from a Seca?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. Hotcakesman

    Hotcakesman Active Member

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    I put European Drags on mine
    apart from the left mirror sitting a bit higher than
    the right Brake Master Cylinder
    they are perfect and feel great
    changing them took me tops 20 mins

    here is a tip if you are putting new grips on
    use a rubber mallet
    it will save you from twisting and skinning your hands

    also for 25 bux shipped for European Drags
    you can't go wrong
    no spacing issues either

    http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Europe ... handlebars
     
  3. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    -The master cylinder from a 650 Seca or any of the 700s would be appropriate for your bike and will have a "flat" reservoir orientation.

    -Handlebars come in a variety of "bends" the most popular manufacturer is BikeMaster; here's their size/spec chart: http://www.bikemaster.com/handlebars.html

    I'm pretty sure you'll need a "standard" clutch lever perch too, or the LH mirror might be at a funny angle.

    You will want a shorter clutch cable, I believe a 650 Seca cable should probably work quite nicely. When you replace your brake lines, get an appropriately shorter upper. The choke and throttle cables can be creatively re-routed to eat up their extra length.
     
  4. NEEDtoRIDE

    NEEDtoRIDE Member

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    Thanks for the replies and input Hotcakes & Bigfitz. Sorry I just got to this, must have hit the wrong button and missed my reply notifications. The Euro bars look like they would be better for the slightly more aggressive mountain riding I have been getting into lately.

    A few more questions if you guys have some more input:

    -Will the sensor in my original clutch perch be able to be unplugged(?) and put into the new "standard" clutch perch?

    -If I kept the original Maxim master cyclinder, is there a front brake failure issue with the angle or is it solely appearance and mirror problem?

    And thanks Fitz, as it always seems to happen, just replaced brake lines, clutch and throttle cables about 3 months ago to match stock. Riding took precedence over planning again...
     
  5. bostonbacon

    bostonbacon Member

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    I'm debating between Euro bars or drag bars and actually had the same question about the master cylinder... my wild guess was that as long as the fluid in the reservoir can supply the ports correctly it wouldn't matter, but I would appreciate some actual wisdom on that matter too!
     
  6. Hotcakesman

    Hotcakesman Active Member

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    my master cylinder is at a slight angle and still
    functions Eh Ok
    with Euro Drag bars
     
  7. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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    I swapped out the stock bars for drag bars and replaced the master with a Nissin lever mechanism and different cylinder. I basically replaced all the front end controls and displays as well as the headlight...

    The issue with the MC is that at a crazy angle it's possible for the unit to suck in air under certain turning conditions. Many people run them at silly angles without issue but one day it could just literally suck when you need it most. Also it kinda looks ridiculous.

    Another thing you'll need to contend with if you go with Drag bars is there's not a lot of room between the stock throttle switch unit and the top of the tree so if you use the stock MC or one that's from an XJ but flat is the banjo to the brake line comes out directly above the front forks making it very tight - it's possible but the cable ends up being at a non-ideal angle. Note in the photo below the nissin unit is about 1 inch shorter on the bars so the banjo comes out slightly before the top of the fork thus it can have a slightly more downward angle.

    Not sure if you'll have this problem with superbike bars but you won't with clubmans or clipons obviously.

    You'll also need to replace the clutch, choke and throttle cable and I used brand new Motion Pro ones for XJ750 Seca and they fit and work almost perfectly. New speedo and tacho cables too for same but the stock ones are the same length - mine were just worn. Brake line was changed to but it's a custom length so I can't say what stock ones fit but it is 34". You have to adapt the thumb rest on the throttle housing also to fit but it's very simple.

    Other slightly annoying issue with drag bars is the left side switch unit hits the tank - it's an easy fix to just add something to the stopper to make it stop sooner but just be aware as to not dent the tank first time. Rarely do you use full lock anyway - maybe just for maneuvering to park so it's not a problem to slightly reduce it.

    Here's what mine looks like now...it's still a work in progress... click on the images to see them the right way up... sorry this forum does this wacky shit to me...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Edit: fixed the rotation of the images and here's a better shot of the bars..

    [​IMG]
     
    Awh0423 likes this.
  8. NEEDtoRIDE

    NEEDtoRIDE Member

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    Thanks for all the info Ribo! And good looking XJ. Definitely like the look of that logo and yamaha type down the tank, gives me some ideas for future parts
     

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