High speed bog

What does it mean when you are in 5th gear doing 65 and you punch it, the response is a bogging sound and no acceleration. It will accelerate slowly but no punch. I've got an xj550 with pods and 37 pilot/117 main.

 

Honestly?

It means you need an AIRBOX.

Barring that, it means you might still have to mess with the jetting. Then again, when I'm going 65 and want to get moving, I generally gear down to 4th (from 6th) to get the R's up and then jump on it. On a stock bike.

Understand something: Pod-equipped, your bike is never going to have the "rideability" (yes it's a real word) that it did in stock trim. A STOCK 550 will accelerate smartly from a relatively low RPM in 5th or even 6th; you, on the other hand, are going to need to get some revs on the clock before you can expect it to get up and go.

You've taken your engine from street tuned toward "racebike" tuned, and you can't expect the same wide-RPM performance range it once had. You're going to need to adjust your riding style up the RPM range; and keep an eye on the plugs lest you blow it up.

Your new "fun zone" is from 6K until it starts to "break up" (I'm not thinking it's gonna pull 10K anymore; if it does then cool) but below that, you won't have much in the way of "get up and go." It ain't gonna pull steadily from 2500rpm to redline in 5th or 6th any more.

Which is why we try to warn against pods. You're discovering the real-world meaning of "form over function." A stock 550 Seca will run the 1/4 mile in about 12 and a half seconds at around 112mph. Don't pick a race with one.

 

idk where you get that also it says here the wet weight is 451 pounds so thats not 100 pounds lighter than an xj700 not even close maybe -50 pounds lighter

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/ ... 0_sega.htm

"Though modern in design, the Seca's twin-valve double-overhead-cam engine lacks the development of other manufacturers' mid-sized fours. Quarter-mile performance strongly reflects an engine's output, and here the Seca falls behind. Its quarter-mile figures—13.05 @ 98.46—pale against those of the current 550 King, the GPz.
Kawasaki's rocket will blast through the quarter in 12.7 seconds at 103 miles per hour, while offering the same versatile power as the Yamaha."

 

Regardless of what specs you find, removing the airbox does in fact do what Fitz says it does. I don't see your comment as being germane to the issue that the OP has.

 

so what are you saying someone whos 80 years old who has more experience
will have the better reflexes than a teenager?

 

I agree with that I would put the airbox back on

 

back to the question, if your rolling along at whatever speed and give it gas and it's flat or bogs but seems to accelerate as you back off the throttle.
you be lean

 

Gee, kinda like if you were running pods on CV carbs or somethin' huh?

 

Here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Don_Garlits
Do some reading up on what an old guy can do. Garlits was still winning races against much younger men when he was in his 70's.

I can guarantee that Malcom Smith can outride most 17 year olds, and he's almost 80.

Most of what we traditionally believe are the effects of aging are really the effects of leading a sedentary lifestyle (the effects of illnesses like arthritis being the exceptions). I find that it's best to never underestimate a person, no matter what age.

 

How about doing a needle height adjust?
I understand the air box is a best case solution. Functionally it's ptobably the easy answer. But first I want to keep trying solutions. I love the look of the bike w/pods and it it runs strong through RPM from 1200 to wherever I stop it. Should run 10k no prob. I just kinda worry anout the old motor at such high R's. It's just when I'm up in 6th gear that it's flattened.
At 65MPH its at 6K in 6th gear and does not like to repond much from there, just a very slow speed increase to 70mph. Shift down to 5th gear at 65MPH it's a bit better but not snappy as is seems it could be. I can tell the motor can do more but somthing's hindering the situation. I am considering raising the needle. I think I needs washers for needle adjust on an 81 XJ550 ?? are these special washers? How many should I try?

 

Anything on how to adjust needle height? Anyone??

 

mjw1) Aftermarket Mikuni main jet needle TUNING WASHERS, these precision ground 18-8 stainless steel shim washers are used to raise the main jet needle height slightly, in order to allow performance tuning modifications when the stock intake or exhaust system has been modified. Tuning washers fit underneath of the plastic needle cap and move the needle upwards off its vacuum piston seat, thus raising the needle end point within the main jet "emulsion tube". Each washer is .025mm thick, and multiple washers can be used to provide the proper tuning desired. Fits all XJ550, 650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F, and XJ1100 models. NOTE: the outer edge of these washers will need to be trimmed down slightly for use on XJ550 and XJ650 Turbo models.

HCP7142 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel TUNING WASHER, each:

HCP7142SET4 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel TUNING WASHERS, set of 4:

HCP7142SET8 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel TUNING WASHERS, set of 8:

HCP7142SET12 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel TUNING WASHERS, set of 12:



These washers are very thin, and as mentioned, are used for fine-tuning purposes. And remember, less-is-more when you're trying to "dial-in" pods.