clutch job difficult?

My xj650j slips a bit under heavy load (it's driveable, but if I'm merging on the freeway and get on it in 3rd or 4th gear it's noticeable, basically the revs jump without acceleration, and if I back off the throttle, it sort of grabs hold and jerks while slowing down a touch), and seems to be dragging a bit as well when disengaged (jerks in N->1, lunges a bit if you start it in 1st with the clutch disengaged, but doesn't really try and creep at lights). I see the EBC clutch friction plates at bike bandit, but where do I get springs and how many are there? It seems to me that issues at both ends of the throw are probably spring related, but while I've got it apart I might as well put in new plates too.

And aside from a torque wrench, good gasket paper, and permatech gasket compound (the copper spray stuff?), will I need anything out of the ordinary? Is it worth replacing the cable at the same time (I'm going with "no" since it doesn't require any disassembly and seems clean and free)? Any pics online?

I have the haynes manual but it seems a bit slight on the procedure. I can probably figure it out, but it's always good to be well armed before going in.

 

One of the moderators should be along shortly............hopefully soon because I'm kind of curious about that myself! :lol:

 

Before you jump into a clutch job, make sure its not your oil or a mis adjusted clutch cable.

Certain engine oils and additives cause clutch slipping. Have you changed your engine oil recently?

I put some oil additive in my bike when I first got it and the clutch started slipping. Drained, refilled with regular oil and not its back to normal operation.

Sorry can't help you with the actual clutch replacement procedure though.

 

I have changed my clutch pressure and friction plates. It is reletively simple. The only special tool you will need is a torque wrench. You want to make sure when you put it back together that the pressure on the springs is equal.

 

It was slipping before I changed it (triple-protection rotella t 15W40), and it's still slipping. It is slightly overfilled at the moment, I haven't had a chance to drain the excess. if you run it then shut it off, the window shows a fill at the top line, but after a few minutes of sitting, it goes above the window.

I've tried adjusting the clutch cable as well. When I got the bike, the friction point was basically right at the handgrip, but it was jerking really bad when shifting so I adjusted it to make sure it was fully disengaging, the friction point is now about halfway out or a bit less. I can try running it back in a bit and see if that helps with the slipping.

 

If you are reusing the steels I would check for blueing(overheating) and put them on a flat surface(peice of glass) to check for flatness.

 

i just completed my 750 clutch. it really was easy. i was having the same symptoms that you have. when i pulled it apart, the friction plates looked good, i bet if i measured them they'd be in spec. the springs were corroded, pretty much junk. i think that i could have gotten away with just replacing the springs. but i haven't stuck much money into the bike for awhile, so i figured that i'd spoil the ol' girl. it's still breaking in, but shifts a lot smoother, i can get into neutral now with the engine running. it's all good!

 

I found the springs also on bike bandit, I didn't see them the first time but I probably clicked directly on the plates. I went ahead and ordered the springs and the friction plates.

Is it recommended to replace the pressure plates as well? I guess I'm gambling that they're okay, and if not that I'll have an un-rideable bike until I can order new plates.

 

i used the original pressure plates. i would look at them for pitting, grooves, or uneven wear. if that's the case, replace them. good luck.

 

I had the same problem. I tore my whole clutch down (pictures in my album) to find it was nothing more than my springs. Put a new set of heavy duty springs in, Made my left hand stronger for a few days before they bedded and now all I can say is wow. I even gained some fuel mileage from changing the springs.

 

Another problem with older bikes is the clutch basket. The fingures that hold the clutch plate tabs tend to get wear grooves. Minor grooves can be eliminated with a fill and effort. You must have the basket out in order to clean it up.

 

Sorry, I have fingure dislexia, ir should be a file and effort not a fill and effort.

 

Let's talk Clutch.

It's slipping.
First you check to see that you don't have it adjusted too tight.
Then, you make sure you didn't foul-up things by putting-in a Synthetic Oil with Friction Reducing additives.

You know you need a New Clutch.

Since you can do some Clutch "Tuning" figure-out what your going to need.

Pull the old Clutch.
Get the cover off, undo the fasteners and be organized.
Make notes of the Order ~~> And POSITION <~~ of the Throw-out mechanism parts so they line-up correctly upon reassembly.

Place each part as you take it off ... in order ... on some sections of newspaper too let the newspaper soak-up any oil.
Line-up each piece as it comes off and out. It needs to go back-together exactly the way they are places and lined-up.
Look for alignment marks, indicator lines and stamped-on direction and rotational indicators.

Undo the Bolts and set the Bolts and Springs aside.
Lay-out some newspaper to line-up all the Plates as they are removed.
Pull-of the PRESSURE PLATE.
Begin removing the Clutches parts in order ... one by one.

Once you get all the FRICTION PLATES and DRIVEN PLATES out of the Clutch Basket ... you inspect the inside of the basket and test the surfaces for GALLING. Rough spots, indentations, sharp edges that would prevent the DRIVEN PLATES from moving ...

Wipe the BOSSES ... the Channels that the DRIVEN PLATES "Teeth" fit into with a piece of Panty Hose.
Anywhere the Panty Hose snags ... needs to be smoothed-out so it won't snag.

If there are a great number of theses places you need to OVERHAUL the BASKET. Remove the Cage and Basket and hand stone, or fine Dremel the Galling away.

[Severe GALLING requires replacing the BASKET]
.................................

Continuing as if Basket Overhaul and/or Replacement isn't necessary
.................................

Inspect the DRIVEN PLATES.
Severely Blued or Obviously warped Drivers are cooked ...

If you need to replace ONE ... don't mess around and just get yourself a WHOLE CLUTCH KIT ~~> Including NEW Springs and Fasteners.
.................................

The Process of assembling the NEW Clutches is basically getting the New FRICTIONS and DRIVERS back into the BASKET in the same order as the Old Ones were in, when you removed them.

On Bike's which have and Index marking lining-up the PRESSURE PLATE and Basket; line-up the PRESSURE PLATE mark with the BASKET MARK and install the Hardware.

Install the Springs and Bolts.
Start the Bolts carefully. Cross-threading a fastener at this point would be a costly error.
Tighten-down the Bolts:
Incrementally -- Starting the Bolts at 2 .. 5 and then 7.2 FtLbs
Alternately -- Tightening one -- skipping the next one -- and so on.

Rick's Old School -- Extra Added Attraction.
Stricty Optional

Look very closely at the New DRIVEN PLATES.
If they're "Dropped" -- (Drop Cut) ... One side of the "Teeth" are going to be rounded ... the other side will have and edge.

For a SWEET acting New Clutch that will behave close to a Hydraulic Clutch ... mark the sides with the edge with a Magic Marker.

Take a ride to an AutoBody Shop with all your marked-up new Drivers and a Ten-dollar bill.

"Will anybody feather-off the edges of these plates with a D-A and some 800?"

Somebody will ...
I promice!

 

ok now, you mentioned the clutch basket, how do I get it off, it merely spins, even when in gear. the center nut is on really tight. how do I stop it from spinning so I can loosen the bolt?? Please reply soon, I cant go any further until I get that one off

 

I have a tool that's made to hold it.

In day's gone buy ... we'd have to improvise a tool that would hold the basket from rotating.

These day's ... it's easier to run-out to your local AutoZone Store and use one of their loaners.

But, it you decide to try keeping-it from rotating with anything else ...
Stick the "whatever" in the fingers of some work gloves so nothing gets scratched or marred.

Whatever the other end is braced up against ... make sure it won't break.

++++

Why are you pulling the cage and basket?
Are they Galled-up?

 

Admitedly, I am new with the bike mechanics. I am trying to get at the starter clutch and I am going at it from both sides, the clutch side and the generator side. my other problem is getting the generator (magneto) off. what size is the threaded hole in the center of the mag?? BTW my bike is an 84 750 maxim.

 

You won't reach the starter clutch from either side, you need to split the casing to gain full access to it.

However, there is a way to change the springs and rollers inside the starter clutch via the holes in the casing behind the altenator/starter.

See the following link......

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1700.html

 

Doing a "Starter Clutch Replacement Shortcut" ... is NOT a job you want to attempt unless:

1. You've got "Double-Black-Diamond" Mechanical Skills and aptitude.

2. Absolutely every correct Tool needed for the feat.

3. After reviewing the process ... understanding that this procedure is intended Primarily for Technicians with advanced skills who are willing to "Save time on a job which allows them to charge the Flat Rate for doing the job ... "By the book" (Complete tear-down -- Case splitting required) and risking having to do the complete tear-down -- anyway.

There are two old sayings to live by:

"If you have to ask how much it costs ... you can't afford it!"

"If you have to ask anything about doing something complicated that you could really mess-up with ONE false move ... don't attempt it!"

 

That is what I am attempting to do, I know that I would have to split the case to get the actual starter clutch out, I can't see the gear being shot, so I am merely replacing the springs, caps and rollers.

 

Sacrifice a bed sheet.

Cut (don't tear-off) a long, long section about 2- inches wide ... and stuff-it-in below where ANYTHING might "Get-Away" on you.

Don't roll any dice.

If you get interrupted ... or, need to let the job "Out of your sight" for a moment ... prepare to find it like you left it with Safety Wire holding parts from slipping or shifting.

If you have the room ...

Sacrifice two or three "Magnetic Hidden Key" holders.
Pull-off the magnets.
String-them-up.
Lay them in-there as a Safety Net.

But, if there ISN'T enough room ... don't risk a magnet "Jumping-up" to grab your tools.

Good luck pulling-off this job.
If you pull this off ... your next chore will be defusing a few bombs for Homeland Security!

I'm pullin' for you, J-D.

Don't forget the Maximum Strength LOCKTITE on the TORX fasteners on the way out!