Going back to original exhaust

Only my 3rd post to this forum.

Can someone tell me if I remove my aftermarket exhaust 4-1, and replace it with an original 2-1 ( if that is the correct terminology), will my bike run differently?
In other words, will I need to adjust my carbs?
The original jets are still in place, I checked.
The bike is running rich, the valves are in spec.
I have only had this bike for a short while, and have not adjusted the carbs, just cleaned them.
Thanks for the advice.

 

You can't put a 2/1 on. You're bike is a 4 cyl, so you can only from a 4/1 to a 4/2.

Dave.

 

When I changed from stock to 4/1 mine ran lean with stock jets

 

Sorry, you are correct with the 4-2.
Still new to this.
ok, so if it is running rich with an aftermarket exhaust, I can expect it to run slightly richer with stock exhaust?
Can this be easily fixed?

 

It is always easier to get the carbs right with a stock set up. If you have the stock jets, and they haven't been drilled larger, then you should have no problem getting it right with the stock exhaust. That said, it probably will require assuring the valves are correct, cleaning the carbs, and getting the sync and pilots adjusted. I am also assuming that you have the stock air filter and not pods.

 

Yes the valves are correct.
I have cleaned the carbs.
I have the original air filter.
So, after installing the stock exhaust, I need to sync the carbs and adjust the pilot jets.
Sounds simple enough.
Thank you, this is great being able to get the answers you need from this site.
I will be searching the forums for the correct procedures.

 

You left out wet setting the float levels.

 

Yep! That's very critical. At least it was with my bike.

 

Another quick question.
I have the used exhaust system that I ordered from Chris in Florida.
Looks real nice, considering it is 32 years old.
I have my order of new gaskets that I ordered from Len at XJ Forever.
I sanded/ wire wheeled off what rust I could from the joints after I removed the old gaskets. This is mainly on the collector, both ends, but more on the interior side of header end.
I used a wire wheel on a drill to remove all the rust I could. I "lightly" ground off the rust with a Dremel, on the inside of the pipes to remove the rust and scale.
The header pipes look great, very little rust on the ends for the gaskets.
The question I have is: can I use a smear of exhaust cement for inserting the new gaskets? Will this help take up any irregularities and fill the pits in the steel while helping to allow for final adjustments of the system while installing.

 

Permatex and Loctite have high temp silicon type sealers suitable for exhausts. I had the loctite so that's what i used, works well no problems with it on 3 bikes.

 

A $1.89 tube of pure silicone from any hardware store is all you need. It is readily available.

It can take the temps. PURE silicone, not any fancy "high temp" stuff from a parts store. Pure silicone is actually higher temp than that stuff. And far cheaper to boot. 8)

 

Let me be the first to disagree. Check out the tech sheet for the stuff. Silicone sealers that are meeant for housing simply are not suitable for exhausts.

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00000683.pdf

Their copper sealant is even better in hing-heat conditions (700ºF).

https://tds.us.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/A0888AF3E133A169882571870000D837/$File/5920-EN.pdf

Note the 400ºF service limit.

Now check out the specs for a product that is engeneered for use on exhaust systems.

http://www.permatex.com/documents/TDS/automotive/80335.pdf

Note that the Permatex has a 2000ºF service limit.

Loctite's high-temp RTV has a service limit of 600ºF, if you want a more flexible sealant.

http://www.sds.loctite.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797917544449

The right tool for the job does not come from a Home Depot.

 

The source for my info is an OEM engineer.

I'll stand by it until independant (non-moneyed) verification. (That engineer I am sourcing is one independant prick!)

 

I knew I guy like that once, just cause they're stubborn doesn't mean they're right.

make your own decisions!

 

No!

The engineer I refer to has had his hand in some MAJOR domestic automotive engine engineering decisions.

He truly is brilliant, if more than a little ornery.

I'll accept his word first.

 

I like the manufacturers spec sheets myself. Hardly ever does a manufacturer underrate their own product, and I'm prety sure that DAP would slap a new label on their window caulk if they could cross-sell it for automotive applications.

 

we'll take your word for it,

anyways ...yes using a small amount of an appropriate silicone product on your header flanges will help overcome minor irregularities in the fitment. always read and follow the directions for joint prep and set/curing times.
don't want to ruin an otherwise perfect job by being too eager to hear it run.

"just cause they're stubborn doesn't mean they're right. "

 

You could be Hillary Clinton!

 

and you could be Larry de Bug the cockroach
"This is a true story it happened to a friend of a friend of mine."

don't know if you guys got that show outside of canada

 

You're Canadien! I'm shocked!

 

you mean Canadian

 

I did not. 8) :lol:

 

Thanks for the tips and the " entertainment".
I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track in thinking that I could put some permatex or equivalent that would produce a complete seal with the new gaskets and used exhaust, and help with the assembly process.
I do not want leaks.
As I keep reading on this site, "do it right-do it once."
Yes, I will give the appropriate set up time.
I am anxious to hear it run.
Thanks to all of you, what a great resource to help us that are gaining the knowledge we need to get our bikes back into like new performance.
BTW not really a Canadien fan.......but Price is one of my favourites, next to my boy (he's a goalie) who is playing University hockey this year
"I AM CANADIAN"....only certain people know what this means, you know who you are
Next project- upgrade the old fuse block to the new blade type which arrived from Chacal.

 

Had some time and installed the "new" exhaust today.
Wow, what a difference in the sound.
Sweet.
However, now that the bike is so much quieter and sounds so good, I have discovered more noise.
This sounds nasty.
Sounds like a chain in the lower engine.
MAJOR Rattles etc.
Kind of goes away with increased revs.
I hear the valves clicking away, but this sound I hear now, even tho it's been there before, just could not hear it.
I would think it's what I've been reading about with other forums which talk about the chain guide disintegrating and need to split the case to repair.
I know sounds are hard to diagnose over the forum, but some suggestions are appreciated.
Also repaired the pet"rooster" .
Thank you Bigfitz for the posting on repairing this.
Added a new in line filter also.
Thank you Chacal for the awesome service of the parts order, and ridiculously fast delivery!!!!,
Could not have accomplished this install of the exhaust or repair to the petcock without all the help on this site.
If this new noise is what I think it is, this will be disappointing, this will become a winter project.




.

 

The time to pull the sump and look for particles and trash was when the exhaust was off (hindsight . . . )

If you have a chain that is actually banging metal, you really shouldn't ride too much this season.

You could try a cam-chain tensioner re-set (maybe??)

 

Time,
Thanks for the suggestion.
I'll look into this right now