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Jason's revival thread

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by jason191918, Jun 7, 2013.

  1. xHondaHack

    xHondaHack Active Member Premium Member

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    Sounds like you need to swap out the lights on the left side.

    I've got a couple of spare lights that I kept from one of the parts bikes I dismantled over the past few years. I'm not using the stock style lights on my bike, so I won't be using them. The finish on them is not perfect, but should help get the issue sorted out for you.

    PM me with your address and I'll send them to you.
     
  2. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    I Switched Both Lefts To Right And Vice Versa. Left Still Does Not Work.
     
  3. xHondaHack

    xHondaHack Active Member Premium Member

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    Sounds like you'll have to get a hold of a wiring diagram and start checking everything on those circuits. In the factory manual the wiring diagram is on the last page.

    The offer still stands on the lights I have, if you need them.
     
  4. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    After a Mile Of Having Them Switched, IT Started Working. Back Left Was Originally Burnt Out. Already Bought/ Installed New One. Thanks For The help And Offer!
     
  5. xHondaHack

    xHondaHack Active Member Premium Member

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    Nice! Glad you got it sorted out.

    Now you can get to the fine tuning of the carbs and hopefully get rid of the issues you were having.
     
  6. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    I Actually Did That Too! Pilot Screws Were Leaking. I Also Did A Vacuum Sync. Runs The Best It Ever Has. We'll See What Happens When It Is Cold...
     
  7. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    Hate to say it, but....you...were...right. That hurt to say haha. Everything has been great on this bike except for cold start (below 55ish and idle). "Choke" makes it rev...indication of lean (due to air leak). RPMs hang when shifting...another indication of air leak. Started doing some light sprays with starting fluid...found one of the domes was leaking. Lightly rtv siliconed all 4 domes. Now i get a spike when I lightly spray some on the springs between the carbs. I'm guessing this has to be the shaft seals.

    What is a good source for these?

    Also, anyone know of a good write up for changing these out?

    Thanks in advance...jason
     
  8. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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  9. xHondaHack

    xHondaHack Active Member Premium Member

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  10. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    I do not see anything regarding the shaft seals in there, but very informational. I did hit up chacal, was wondering if there were any other good sources out there. Thanks much.
     
  11. Xjrider92117

    Xjrider92117 Active Member

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  12. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    This is the same one I just posted...are the mikunis similar enough to figure out from this?
     
  13. Xjrider92117

    Xjrider92117 Active Member

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    Oops. Ya I followed that write up. I would replace the fuel rail o rings while there apart.
     
  14. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    Gotcha. Thanks for the info. If I'm not leaking fuel, is there any reason to replace them? Or can air leak through there as well?
     
  15. Bigshankhank

    Bigshankhank Active Member

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    If you have them apart, its worth the couple bucks to replace them and not have to worry. Smear a little silicone grease on them prior to reassembly to make them slide on easier and not shred the new o rings when you press them in.
     
  16. Xjrider92117

    Xjrider92117 Active Member

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    And if you take them apart put them back together the last thing you want is them to start leaking.
     
  17. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    ok, reinstalled the shaft seals last night. Visually, there is a huge difference there. The new ones actually hug the shaft instead of wobble. Turns out 3 of my 4 pilots were plugged as well. Will be installing the carbs tonight. Going to rebench sync after these fixes. Then revacuum sync. Might even try to colortune. Anything else I should be doing?
     
  18. jason191918

    jason191918 Member

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    i did the bench sync. after figuring out that i took the throttle cable slack out via the bench sync, i adjusted the cable at the shaft and was able to get the idle down from 7000 to 1000. then did a bench sync. baby starts and idles like a dream. hot or cold. i love the bike 10 times more now.
     

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