Neutral safety light stays on

I've had the bike running for a couple of weeks, but as of yesterday after changing the oil,filter and plugs, the neutral light stays on and the bike will start in gear. I checked the wiring ( removed the insulation)from the switch to the connectors under the seat. Couldn't find any burns, fray, or grounds and the wires are in excellent shape. I removed the ground wire and the lead at the neutral switch it still stays on and disconnected the relay, with the same effect .Before this happened you could not start in gear. Any ideas?

 

New switch I'd say

 

Maybe but if the switch is disconnected shouldn't the light go out. I've researched other threads sand they suggest it's a grounding issue. and I've checked the wiring (blue) wire to where it connects to a light blue and I assume that the light blue connects to the relay. Haynes schematics are terrible. Oh well time to buy that new Multi.

 

If the switch is dicsonnected the neutral light will go out. Check the safety circuit relay (under the tank, along the main frame rail). I will lay even odds that it is faulty and allowing the neutral light to stay on. There are other faults that will cause that problem, but start at the relay.

 

Thanks, that will be my next step. Now I'm off to buy that Multimeter.

 

A quick (but not entirely definitive) check is to swap the safety relay with the headlight relay. A good saffety relay will cause the headlight to turn on when the ignition is switched on.

 

Thanks k-moe i'll try that

 

I forgot to mehtion that the relay is audible. You should hear it click when you turn the ignition on (when in its normal location). If it isn't doing that then it is either faulty, or you have a wiring problem.

 

Thanks, I tried as you said and swapped the relays and the headlamp turns on. I also listened for the "click" from the relay and it wasn't very audible turning the key on, but I held my hand on the relay and you could click on and off. I finally bought a multimeter and tested the lead and ground going to the neutral switch, which were fine, but nothing from the switch in volts or resistance. So I know for sure it needs replacing. I'm going to read up on testing the relay. With the neutral light always on , I find it will start without the clutch pressed in, in gear. Which I've tested the lead and ground in the headlamp basket and is working fine. I'm kinda wondering if the neutral switch is the type that is always on and needs to be told turn off by the transmission ? Thanks for your replies

 

The XJ neutral switch works by gounding the single lead (light blue IIC) that attaches to it. If it is always on, even with the lead removed, then you have a short in that wire, or someone grounded it on purpose. The switch itself can get gummed up. Removal for cleaning or replacement requires a modified socket since it's a tight squeeze (the frame rail is in the way). Chacal has them, or you can make your own.

 

Thanks k-moe. I do think the PO has changed some of the wiring. I have a black/red going to a white wire bullet connector on the neutral switch. The sb/light blue comes from the relay then connects to a darker blue wire (located just above the TCI) thats travels down the harness to the neutral switch, but was grounded to a small screw on the block, between the frame rail an the switch.
Now if I can believe my Haynes manual it shows one single SB/light blue wire that travels directly to the relay. So how many wires are actually connected to the switch?

 

One light blue wire to the switch, that is attached by the single JIS head screw on the switch body. Sounds like the PO just grounded it to the frame.

 

Yep.I decided to trace that light blue wire all the way to the headlamp. Took apart the main harness and found he'd grounded it at the frame and bypass the safety relay, connected the 2 light blue wires from the diode and neutral light then back to the relay. So I severed the connection at the Y and the neutral light is out now and the bike will only start if the clutch is depressed, so at least that part of the safety switch is working. Now I just need to buy I new neutral switch and sort the rest out then. I bench tested the relay for ohms and volt and thankfully it wasn't damaged by the faulty wiring. Thanks for your help.

 

If oyu ground the lt blue wire does the neutral light come on?

Before buying a new switch check the old one for continuity with ground when in neutral, and no continuity when in gear. If it tests no-good, go ahead and pull it. It may only be gummed up with sludge.

 

may I interject a similar issue on this thread to solve some of my own issues...

got hit by a car while riding, thankfully the motor took the brunt of the hit and im only a little sore. However, I got my hands on a replacement motor and went about swapping it out. fitted the new motor and get it wired up...in any gear the neutral light stays on and allows me to start the bike with the kickstand up and without depressing the clutch. took it for a spin and all was going well running fantastically until the motor dies as if ive hit the kill switch. only thing I get now is the headlight, high beam, and blinkers working functionally. The neutral light no longer illuminates, the low oil light doesnt come on when I hit the ignition, and it doesnt even crank. but the headlight still dies when you hit the start button. any ideas? bad neutral safety switch?

 

Could you please start a new thread so that the two problems don't get muddled. What fixes 12Rant's problem may not fix yours.

 

with pleasure

 

I tested the wire coming from the neutral switch (for some reason it's white) there's no continuity of any kind neutral or in gear. Since you have to drain the oil and it's so difficult to R&R I figure for 20 bucks or so it just simpler to buy a replacement. There's a good chance that it just fouled up, because the problem arose immediately after an oil change and maybe something got lodge between the switch tip and the drum. Also the PO made a number of wiring modifications in the main harness he may have jury rigged the switch as well, hence the white lead instead of the light blue. well I gotta wait till payday before I go any further. Thank you all for your input.

 

Out of curiosity, what oil did you put in it?

 

Castrol GTX 10w40 motorcycle oil. Why would the type or viscosity of oil have any effect on this issue?