1. Some members were not receiving emails sent from XJbikes.com. For example: "Forgot your password?" function to reset your password would not send email to some members. I believe this has been resolved now. Please use "Contact Us" form (see page footer link) if you still have email issues. SnoSheriff

    Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

Swapped engine wont crank

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by xj_cafe, Sep 9, 2014.

  1. xj_cafe

    xj_cafe New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    New York City
    Hey all, so the story goes... I got hit by a car while riding, thankfully the motor took the brunt of the hit and im only a little sore. However, I got my hands on a replacement motor and went about swapping it out. Fitted the new motor and got it wired up...in any gear the neutral light stays on and allows me to start the bike with the kickstand down and without depressing the clutch. So I took it for a spin to see what this new engine is all about; all was going well running fantastically until the motor dies as if i've hit the kill switch. Only thing I get now is the headlight, high beam, and blinkers working functionally. The neutral light no longer illuminates, the low oil light doesnt come on when I hit the ignition, and it doesnt even crank. but the headlight still dies when you hit the start button. any ideas? bad neutral safety switch?
     
    xj_cafe, Sep 9, 2014
    #1
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    19,647
    Likes Received:
    6,756
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The City of Seven Hills
    My first inclination is to think that there are a few things going on. First I'd like you to use a test light, or ohm meter, to check the neutral switch. Place one lead on the screw that the wire connects to, and the other on the frame or other ground. There should be continuity when the transmission is in neutral, and no continuity when in gear. A stuck switch wolud explain teh light always being on, but it could also be due to a short in the wiring.

    Since there are other issues in the same physical area of teh motorcycle I think that this will require a step-by-step check of the electrical system, starting at the underside of the engine where those three components reside.

    The sudden dying points to a sticky, or faulty, sidestand switch, but the lack of an oil light and neutral light hints at a short somewhere in that part of the wiring harness. Do both a visual check, and an electrical check for continuity in the harness between those switches and the other end of each individual wire.

    Also, which XJ is this, and what year?
     
    k-moe, Sep 9, 2014
    #2
  3. xj_cafe

    xj_cafe New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    New York City
    83' xj750 and the motor is an 81
     
    xj_cafe, Sep 9, 2014
    #3
  4. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    356
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    Make certain the earth ground (on the left side) and battery ground are both making good contact at the frame and engine respectively.

    Gary H.
     
    rocs82650, Sep 10, 2014
    #4
  5. xj_cafe

    xj_cafe New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    New York City
    just another thing to point out, I have three plugs that go from the motor to the bike.. a large one that goes to the module on the left side of the bike, a three prong one and a two prong one. I noticed tt the three prong one is a little melted. What does this plug do/what would happen here with a poor connection?
     
    xj_cafe, Sep 16, 2014
    #5
  6. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    356
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    Regulator/rectifier, rotor and stator respectively. If you have a service manual there is a procedure to test all three. Key note: The battery needs to be fully charged (the test for re-charging is done first.)

    Gary H.
     
    rocs82650, Sep 16, 2014
    #6
  7. Orange-n-Black

    Orange-n-Black Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,210
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Memphis Area
    Do we know that the wiring is the same for the 81-83 models?
     
    Orange-n-Black, Sep 16, 2014
    #7
  8. xj_cafe

    xj_cafe New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    New York City
    My Haynes manual says 80-84 so I reckon so
     
    xj_cafe, Sep 17, 2014
    #8
  9. xj_cafe

    xj_cafe New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    New York City
    after much digging through wiring and connections and blah blah blah...I found out two of the fuses in the fuseblock slipped out of place :confused:
     
    xj_cafe, Sep 24, 2014
    #9
  10. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    19,647
    Likes Received:
    6,756
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The City of Seven Hills
    One more reason to upgrade to blade fuses.
     
    k-moe, Sep 24, 2014
    #10

Share This Page