what's the easiest way to remove carbs?

ok, so i just joined this site a couple weeks ago.. i read all the articles i could find on removing these things after i removed them.

how i did it was to remove the screws in the heads and took the boots and carbs out as one unit. well all except for the boot on the far right, because there is no way in hell to remove that bottom screw on the third boot otherwise. Then all the carbs, with that fourth boot out, came sliding out just as pretty as you please, once i unbolted the airbox and pushed those boots in.

Then i found this site and read all the articles and everybody seems to think that the easiest way by fat is to leave the front boots on, use a hair dryer to heat them up and slide the carbs in/out. almost nobody removes the boots like i did, and i saw plenty of horror stories about those bolts breaking. it was a pita because i had to buy $60 worth of tools to get those boot/head bolts out (5mm allen driver bit???) really).

anyway it's time to put them carbs back in. i had a race car shop clean them up and replace a broken 'throttle enrichment' linkage part (thank you ebay). i would refer to it as a choke myself. so i am wondering if i should really go the route of bolting the boots back on first and try the hair dryer thing. it certainly would save alot of time if it was easier, because using an allen wrench one eighth of a turn at a time really blows.
so i guess i should have titled this thread: "Does the hair dryer trick really work"??? My boots are very stiff btw.
also, my buddy who races cars (600c class), says he always uses a very thin layer of silicon on the boot/head surface. over the o ring and all.

1985 xj 700 maxim

 

I don't know but I do see how the hair dryer thing could work. I just removed the rubber boots from the air box and carbs the pulled back and rotated up and down till they came off the boots. To reinstall I sprayed wd40 on the carbs and the boots on the engine. then pushed the rim in. After I went to the front of the bike and pulled hard on the left side first the the right side.

 

once the tank, seat, covers, etc.... are off, the best way to remove/install the carbs is:

loosen the airbox-to-carb boots clamps and push the boots into the airbox until just the front lip is sticking out

loosen the bolts that anchor the airbox and slide the airbox back (it's only about half an inch)

disconnect the throttle cable and the ENRICHMENT CIRCUIT cable. It is NOT a CHOKE cable. The enrichment circuit does just that--it ADDS extra fuel, it does not choke the air.

loosen the clamps on the carb-to-manifold boots.

move the clutch cable out of the way.

now pull the carb rack out by pulling toward the rear of the bike, and tipping them upward at the same time. Wiggle up and down as needed, but they'll pop out pretty quick.

To reinstall, do everything in reverse. I dip a fingertip in engine oil and then coat the front inner surface of the manifold boots. A little heat from a heat gun to soften the rubber just a bit, a little forward pressure and some wiggles and they pop right in. A little heat will soften the airbox boots too. I push the airbox front again first, then work the center two carb boots on first, then the outer two. I pull the boots out of the box so the groove sides are both out of the box. That allows me to get the boots onto the carbs far enough. Then I put the clamps on, and THEN I push the rear lip back into the airbox. Then I move onto the next carb.

Usually takes 10 minutes or less. At one carb clinic, people saw me install as set of carbs, hook them up, sync them, install the tank, covers, seat, and have the bike ready to ride in under 8 minutes. I had the carbs on and hooked up in 4. Granted, it was totally dumb luck that things were incredibly flexible, but it made a real good show and we all got a good laugh out of it too.

Removing the manifold bolts the way you did is asking for trouble if one of the snaps.

Others will chime in with their little tip and tricks, too.......

Dave F

 

they can if they want. i'm good with what you guys said. i'll put my boots on tomorrow if i have time, well, next chance i get. and maybe even get the carbs all in too. it's just that my boots seem really stiff. thick rubber, but with all the oil or WD, i'll give it a shot. thanks. i not lose any more time thinking about it!

 

With a sawzall!
Guess I'm late for the party?

 

They are supposed to be thick and stiff--- they anchor the carb rack and support most the weight and torque of them. They're just soft enough to push the carbs in with some decent pressure/force.

 

the bolts have been soaking in oil for about two weeks, any need for Loctite or just assemble.?

 

I would definitely install the manifold boots onto the head first & torque to spec ...dont forget the paper gasket between boot & head..........apply a little silicone grease to the inside lip of them ( thin coat )....then align the carb throats to them & they will slip in pretty easily with some muscle power pushing evenly on the carbs .....grab a bar for leverage if needed....be patient they will go on...........as for the airbox to carb boots....hopefully you pushed them into the airbox...so pull them out & onto the carbs......install clamps......take your time.......DO NOT RIP THE BOOTS......

Do not use loctite or WD-40.....

 

A little addition to "Hogfiddles" excellent walk-through:

I pull the rack to the rear grabbing the left or right side. When it pops out of the manifold boots in that side, I put a block of wood between head and freed side of rack - to prevent it from popping back in, when I pull the other side free.

When installing, I press right or left side in in the manifold boots, use a block of wood between the popped-in-side of the rack and the airbox and push the other side in.

Earlier I made a pry-bar arrangement as in the picture but I found it unneccesary when the rack is prevented from popping in/out when you apply pressure to the opposite side.

 

just got the sawzall remark. haha, yeah i used one to get a door off in pick and pull last summer.

but...Finn, i dont know how in the hell you have so much room as to put that 2x4 in there!!! if i have that much room i know i'll get them on. but i do happen to have a 2 by sitting right next to my gay ragee. yesterday i put my freshly painted fender and light back on. i pr0ceeded to put a second small scratch in my fresh paint on my tank before i even put it on also. i have my petcock to deal with it is completely clogged with rust. i am soaking it is mystery oil now. i'll see what that does and maybe make a new post about it's issues. thanks for the great pics!

 

Forcing the carbs into the boots by pushing them straight in is an excercise in frustration. Tip the rear of the carbs down as far as you can, slip the lower edge of all four carb throats into place, and rotate up while pressing forward. This allows the carb boots to stretch around the carb throats, and they will pop into place fairly easily.

 

you know moe, that sounds just way too logical to make any sense.

what u think @ my petcock issues? i got to check them as it's a new day out there.

 

my first thought when I saw the thread title was, dynamite. he he.

CN

 

Search function for the win!

 

the airbox to carb boots have a oval mark that's covered by the clamp, it goes on top

 

Some also have a little tab that fits between the two nubs above each Airbox hole.

 

LIke the ones on the XJ900RK.

 

The EASIEST way is to have someone else do it.

Dave

 

I agree with hogfiddles on that last comment...I had my brother help me, I got a used airbox and kept having to take things off the bike to get it in...including the starter! To the carbs off rotate them up and down, I also have an XJ700 and they pop right off by rotating up and down, to try and pull them straight back you'd need to be Thor...
with my new airbox I'm also having the new experiences of trying to get the boots from both sides into the carbs, pain in the butt compared to pods, but runs a lot better!

 

I used a 1inch ratchet strap attached around the engine side of carbs and then both ends tied to the rear grab bar. Slowly ratchet and they pop right off. Also works to put them back on. Learned this from someone else on here, can't remember who. I've done this several times and it works great for me