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Bike won't crank

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by vlopez83, Jan 18, 2015.

  1. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    1983 xj750 seca won't crank I just don't know what to do any advice will help thank you
     
    vlopez83, Jan 18, 2015
    #1
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Won't crank as in the engine will not turn over, or as in the engine will not fire? Was it running before this issue occured? We need the whole story in order to begin a diagnosis of the problem.
     
    k-moe, Jan 18, 2015
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  3. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    It use to run but at the time I had carb issues so i clean them and reset them time after time so that caused the battery to drain a lot but it's a new battery and I just recharge it today but when I go to start it nothing nt even a spark or crank I just put in a new relay to
     
    vlopez83, Jan 18, 2015
    #3
  4. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    I'm kinda thinking it's the spark plug caps
     
    vlopez83, Jan 18, 2015
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  5. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    So the starter isn't turning the engine over? Do you hear the starter solenoid click when you press the starter button? Have you checked the main fuse?
     
    k-moe, Jan 18, 2015
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  6. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    I don't hear a click and what does the main fuse look like
     
    vlopez83, Jan 18, 2015
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  7. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The fusebox is under the seat. The main fuse is 30 amp.
     
    k-moe, Jan 18, 2015
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  8. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    Yea the fuse is new and good
     
    vlopez83, Jan 18, 2015
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  9. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    Hell yea man you were right I messed with the fuse and right away it turned on now comes the hard part , tuning the carbs it's going to be tuff because a while back I messed with the idle screws so if u have any advise with the screws it would help a lot thank u man
     
    vlopez83, Jan 19, 2015
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  10. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Lightly set the idle screws, then back them out 2 1/2 turns. That will give you a good baseline to dial in the mixtures before you do a running synch. You really should consider upgrading to a more modern fusebox. The original fuse clips get brittle and will eventually fail (though they can be replaced).

    Some light reading for you: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/the-information-overload-hour.27544/
     
    k-moe, Jan 19, 2015
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  11. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    Hey quick question the bike starts right up but the rpm goes right up on choke but when choke is off it dies idk wat to do any advice
     
    vlopez83, Jan 23, 2015
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  12. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Back the choke off slowly as the RPMs rise. It takes several minutes of riding for the engine to reach operating temperature. Go for a 15 minute ride, back the choke all the way off and see if she'll idle then.
     
    k-moe, Jan 23, 2015
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  13. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    Alright
     
    vlopez83, Jan 23, 2015
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  14. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    the crankers broke, replace the cranker


    i had to do that :)
     
    Polock, Jan 23, 2015
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    jmilliken and k-moe like this.
  15. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    Sorry for wasting your time i decided I'm just going to see it for 500 dollars I just don't have the time and money for it
     
    vlopez83, Jan 24, 2015
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  16. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    No apology needed. Other people will look at this thread and find asnwers to their problem, and you learned something that you can use when you have the time for another project bike.

    Did you get it to idle once it was warmed up?
     
    k-moe, Jan 24, 2015
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  17. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    Yes I did but only for a short time the bike is strong just needs to be synced right
     
    vlopez83, Jan 24, 2015
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  18. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    It's more likely that one or more of the pilot circuits need to be cleaned out. You could be a few hours and $6.00 away from having a ride, or a very sellable motorcycle.
     
    k-moe, Jan 24, 2015
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  19. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    Wow I accually got it tuned pretty good today finally went on a good ride
     
    vlopez83, Jan 24, 2015
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  20. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    H
    hi again I have another question my bike is running great now but the only problem is it won't go into 5th gear the bike tops out at like 60
     
    vlopez83, Feb 6, 2015
    #20
  21. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Even in 4th it should be going faster than 60. Not going into 5th could be down to a bit of the primary chain guide breaking off and jamming between the gears, ror to a problem wirh the mousetrap. you'll need to pull the shift cover off so you can inspect it.

    How many RPMs will it turn in the first four gears? Does it start to feel "soft" above 4K RPM? A healthy engine, with clean carbs and the valves in spec will pull hard all the way to redline (really coming alive above 6k).
     
    k-moe, Feb 6, 2015
    #21
  22. vlopez83

    vlopez83 Member

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    Srry it will do 60 at about 4 thousand rpm but anything higher it starts getting rough
     
    vlopez83, Feb 6, 2015
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  23. Joris

    Joris Member

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    Just maybe your getting rough above 6K is the same as K-moe's coming alive.;)
     
    Joris, Feb 7, 2015
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  24. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I can guarantee that it isn't. There is nothing rough about an XJ engine when it's in good working condition and properly tuned.

    The short list of what could be causing rough running at engine speeds above 4,000 RPM:

    Sticking slides (were the carbs fully disassembled and thoroughly cleaned?)

    Partially blocked emulsion tube(s)

    Tears or holes on one or more slide diaphragm.

    Ignition misfire caused by cracked coil bodies, cracked plug wires, cracked plug boots, corrosion at the boot/wire junction (unscrew the boots to check), faulty resistors, (there are other possibilities, but those are the most common (A faulty TCI is possible, but we won't go there just yet))

    An air leak at any one of the following locations: Throttle shaft seals, carb to block manifolds, vacuum caps, petcock vacuum line, petcock vacuum diaphragm.

    Valves out of adjustment.
     
    k-moe, Feb 7, 2015
    #24

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