Aluminum Polishing Newb

Local connection fell through. I can probably find another local shop but thought I'd ask on here about doing it myself. Seems a complete buffer kit is ~$100, can probably do cheaper sourcing a motor and pads. Never done it before, need to polish the usual bits (fork lowers, crankshaft end caps, shift/clutch covers). Easy for a beginner or find someone else?

 

Do it by hand, no need to get a bench-top buffer. Its a little time consuming, there are several write-ups online for how to do it. Essentially, it is a matter of using progressively finer sandpaper (wet) until you get a good shine on it, then switch over to a good quality polishing compound and some microfiber cloths.

 

Agreed.

 

first you need to get any clearcoat that's left on there off. advance auto, aircraft stripper in the paint section. it's nasty stuff !
you guys think by hand? i have a old harbor freight grinder with buffing wheels and i wouldn't even think of hand buffing anymore.
probably like 10 minutes on the wheel = a hour by hand

 

I wouldn't say you have to avoid power tools, just that they aren't required to do it. So he shouldn't have to feel like he has to go out and drop a benji or more to get good results. That said, a bench grinder with polishing wheels/compound is some awesome stuff. I used to spend hours at the buffing wheel back in my metals classes polishing everything I could get my hands on because it was so satisfying. I tried to rewrite that in a way that didn't sound bad, but I don't think I can.

 

Yah I'm not sure I want to do all those by hand. I don't want to spend a ton on tools for one use too, I have plenty of those already! Will see what I can come up with, harbor freight has a buffer for $39.

 

Yeah that still sounds dirty Baldwonder.

 

Buffing is a dirty, nasty job using a motor wheel, but produces great results. Don't forget your osha-approved respirator.

Buffing by hand is a dirty, nasty job, and will eventually produce good/great results, and has the added benefit of building up strong hand muscles and giving you a Godzilla-like handshake which can then be used to impress friends and influence people. Once all the cramps and pre-arthritis symptoms dimish, that is........

 

here's a good read on buffing
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffman.htm
then take a ride to harbor freight.
i always found the indents that the screws go in the worst to do, maybe get a few "bobs"
i shouldn't talk i just paint my stuff except the stainless bolts

 

Hahah, godzilla grip. I thought about paint but it will look awesome polished. Man I wish the "case of beer" guy didn't fall through.

 

the clutch cover is two pieces, the center part comes out. so don't buff the rubber ring and melt it

 

Good looking out, thanks. Was wondering how that "ring" was attached, I haven't pulled the cover yet.

 

I used some sandpaper and the buffer from Harbor Freight. Sandpaper where the aluminum was discolored bad. I did not think much from the buffer wheels that came with the buffer. I bought a kit from Ebay with wheels and compound that did a nice job.

 

Here's a thread on my technique with some examples ...
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/buffing-and-polishing-bohemian-style.17078/

 

Cool, thanks! Sounds like I have some options.

I think I will still try to find someone locally who does as hobby/on the side etc. Based on need for new tools, learning a new skill, mess, etc. and time, I think that will be easier.

 

send them out to get anodized

 

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/polishing-your-aluminum-parts.48149/

 

Hmm, quick search shows this may be a reasonably priced option IF the piece is in good shape and want "dust coat" of color. If the piece needs work or you want clear, looks like they polish it first adding quite a bit of $$$ to the quote.

Unless a reasonably priced option comes up locally, I'll probably give it a shot myself. Too cold to paint motor now anyway so I need something to do. Not going for perfect restoration, but want a nice looking bike I can ride daily in the summer. Thx for the awesome threads, nice results.

 

No money to buy tools? Do it by hand. Simple as that, it sucks, but as Chacal pointed out you will develop tremendous, Remo Williams level finger strength, so focus on using your left hand. That way you will have no trouble actuating your clutch lever.

 

Does not matter if you have a buffer or not your gonna get blisters either way. Just watch out 80s bikes tend to have a lot of porosity. Most of the time if you try to sand it out it gets worse so be careful.

 

If I'm gonna spend hours doing something by hand and there's a justifiably priced powertool to fix that, then I'm in for the power tool! I say justifiably as its always easier to "justify."

I sense my wife will be "justifying" me overnighting in the garage again.

Mainly I had a guy to do all that stuff for a case of beer, but that fell through. Never done it before, wanted to see if I could tackle. If I can find someone to do it for $100 or less, off they will go.

 

Yeah, don't make the mistake that I did and try to "eat it" with aircraft stripper, only to slice it with an x-acto knife. Thankfully someone on here was kind enough to let me know it was a removable gasket...that I then needed to replace.

 

More time to "polish"!

 

I still have an engine to assemble, frame to paint, tires to install, brakes to order, etc. etc. I wonder what would get me banished to the garage for a month

 

Maybe if she catches you "Polishing"

 

maybe i'am wrong but polishing all that stuff doesn't happen over night. like the forks, a lot of it can be done on the bike. Then when you change the seals you shine the heck out of them and move on to something else. i had my Maxim years and was still finding things to shine, that's why i paint now

 

Forks are off and apart, engine is off and apart, tank/covers are at body shop for paint. Frame is bare. Gauges/hand controls are apart and in the basement. Now is the time to polish. Yeah blew the budget on this one but I'll have a nice 650 for much less than buying a used newer bike that still needs work.

 

you jumped in with both feet no time for you to be on here, get out the rags and get hot.
we got to meet up this summer so i can see this beauty

 

jayrodoh, ever been to the bike rally at Geneva-on-the-lake? Brosef, how about you? I think we need to get together a posse of XJ's for it this year.
Polock, turn on your charm and work your magic on them boys.

 

Polok, you're not too far. Maybe a ride is in order this summer. Meet up somewhere.

Bmarzka, I've heard of it but never been. Sounds like a plan.

 

And now I'm noticing your location says "Cleveland." I'm in Oberlin, so count me in!

 

I took the plunge and got everything at Harbor Freight for under $40 with their coupons. Every polished up nicely but what are you guys using for that final polish to remove the fine scratches? I stripped, buffed with brown, and then with white on a loose wheel. They look good but not "mirror" quality.

 

tell the wife you have as much of a good time riding your bike as you do her, you will have plenty of garage time then
then get a vanity plate with wifes name on it for the xj , when wife asks why you say its so you do shout out the wrong name.............
or you could call your wife XJ../.

 

Don't judge by what you see, take a picture. I bet the picture looks like a mirror.

 

Simple solutions are usually the best..........

 

Take wet-n-dry 1000 sand paper with soapy water and take the fine scratches out. If you still see the scratches you may have to use 800 first. Follow that by a quick pass with 1500 grit. And if you want really go all out, give it a pass with 2000. Follow that with the wheel (the stiffer one) with the with compound. You will see the mirror effect at that point. Next you need to think about what wax to use. This will help with the longevity of the shine. Do not use a silicone based wax. It will dull your shine. Use a bee's wax based wax. I use the mothers aluminum polish. I also use the wheel for this initially. I find this does take a very small amount of the shine away. But worth the protection. Once completed, I hit the forks for example, once every six months with mothers polish and a rag (no buffing required) and this maintains the work I initially did on them.

 

I have not seen your pics, but I am sure your polished stuff looks good. I do all my own polishing, not an expert but getting better every time, and it sounds to me like you got it going on with your buffs and your compound. What wheel did you use to buff with the brown compound? Depends on the piece, but when I do it generally I will use a sewn/sisal buff, fairly stiff, and use either brown or grey compound. After that, loose buff with white compound. I will buff one way, and then turn the piece so my next pass is at a right angle to the first pass. I have a buff rake, *very* important to keep buff clean. If you do not have one, a stout wire brush will work in a pinch.
Keep at it...it is dirty and nasty job, but without fail, every time I finish something, its like, wow, I did that. Good luck!

 

I use only the stiff wheel only. Here is a link that has some pictures I posted as well as video.

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/polishing-your-aluminum-parts.48149/

You are supposed not to mix compounds on a wheel. At least not the brown / white or grey / white. But I'm lazy and haven't changed the fluffy wheel with another stiff one. I have even used the wheel after applying mothers aluminum polish. But only after I had wiped and hand buffed a couple of minutes. So really, I'm not using the strict recommended techniques. But the results speak for themselves. And I have see much better results from others. But after the sanding / buffing / waxing, I usually have reached my limit. I never keep beer around the house, so for me the Zen experience is very limited before I tire out.

Just a tip for when you are wet sanding, use a large 5 gallon bucket with soapy water at the bottom. That way you can place the part in there and sand and keep wetting as needed. And you can do it cleanly inside a nice A/C cooled house with the TV instead of a hot humid garage.

 

Thanks for all the tips. XJOE - I did watch your videos before I got into the actual process, they helped very much, thanks for taking the time on those.

I skipped the wet sanding as there were no scratches on the covers. I went back and wet sanded the alternator cover and had another go, the wet sanding seemed to really smooth things out and I achieved the finish I was looking for. Just need to get some polish now to prevent them from tarnishing again too quickly.

For anyone contemplating this I would recommend it. It's really not a difficult project, just a little time consuming and messy. The factory clear coat is extremely stubborn in areas where it is still in good shape.

Here are some polished parts. I need to sand down the clutch cover insert and go again, but I'm pleased overall.

 

Was the "Lite" chemical to lubricate the operator?

Nice looking covers. I need to do this with mine as the original coating is peeling in places and looks like crap.

 

Got my lower fork tubes done. There is definitely some room for fine sanding areas where the factory did a poor job of finishing. Mine will be a daily rider so I wasn't too concerned.

 

looks good . did you buff them with a bench buffer or drill attachment?
i have made the mistake of polishing a pickup cover now I have to keep polishing stuff .
its so shiney.. and I have not buffed it yet

 

I bought a Harbor Freight buffer and all the goodies for under $40 with a coupon. It's a disease man, I keep finding things to polish now.

Some additional pointers I've picked up as I go:

• Face shield is a must. The wheels will throw fibers/strings at you, especially when they are new.
• Hang an old blanket etc. behind the wheel. It can grab things with sharp edges like engine covers.
  
• If you think even for a minute that the buffer will take off any clearcoat that was missed when stripping, think again. Respray and wait 30 minutes to get it all. I know it sucks.
  
• Aircraft Paint Stripper will eat latex gloves. It's a slow but sudden rupture exposing your skin to the stripper.
  
• Brown rouge followed by white works well for aluminum parts. Use a spiral buff for the brown and a loose buff for the white. Follow with your choice of aluminum polish to prevent tarnishing.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the results and it's rewarding to polish things.

 

Medium #1 steel wool kicks clear coats butt.and it doesn't smell bad or try to eat your skin.

 

I must be lazy. I keep striping the clearcoat off and now working on polish but it's dang boring and my attention span is about 7 minutes LOL. Keepin after it though. Moved it to the basement so the cold isn't a excuse anymore.