Automotive ignition?

So the question I pose and after doing some research, Im thinking of not using, is how to wire an automotive type ignition. I used the minimal wiring diagram from this site and followed it perfectly and boom works great, with having, a push button start, and kill switch. Now thought trying to use this ignition so sauce. Here is a picture of the diagram that came with the ignition. I was wondering if someone would know what wire goes where. So far I have the B going to battery, A going to my headlight, taillight etc, and C goes to the Ignition switch. I feel I'm missing something else because when I turn the key over it starts, when i let off the key so it is in run mode, it stop running but the lights stay on. any help would be great. here is what I'm working with.

 

Good luck man, hopefully you get it sorted out. For the time being I wired my bike up using that exact diagram, and I ended up buying an auto ignition too, but I'm paying someone to draw up my diagram to all my specifics. Whenever I get it I will be happy to email it to you, though I hope you get it figured out before then!

 

Yeah I'm sure I will. The minimal wiring diagram is spot on perfect. Whoever made that gets a big thumbs up by me. I'm thinking if this ignition causes me too much of a headache I'll just go back to original design.

 

It sure is! It gave me the confidence I needed to take on a full rewire in a month or so.

 

Are you trying to use the start feature of the ignition switch and not have a start button? If so, then you have it wired incorrectly. You need to feed both the ignition/accessory circuits from the A terminal and you may need tie A and C together to ensure A gets power while in start(I've seen some this way). S goes to the starter solenoid.

M and M2 are not used in this type of setup.

If you are doing this, I'm curious why? I would not ever want to have to restart while rolling by reaching to turn a key.

 

Yeah I'm trying to eliminate the push button start and the reason why I wanted to do this is just to have something different, unique for my bobber. And I will have to give that A&C tie in together to see if that works. That for whatever reason didn't come to mind when I was scratching it over and over last night. Makes sense though. Thanks.

 

Just move the wire from C to A.

You may not need to tie them together, but I have seen some switches that cut power to the A terminal when the switch is in the start position (think radio shuts off in your car when starting). Considering terminal A is labeled Lights and Ignition on the package, I wouldn't think that you have to. You'd have a no spark situation then when starting so you can probably skip this.

In older cars the coil will get ~9 volts in the run position through a resistor or resistance wire. When starting, the C terminal would send 12 volts to the coil while starting. Purely an example as it doesn't apply here, just some notes to help with the logic in the switch.

 

Thank you for your insight. Now if I could only not be at work and at home playing around in the garage. My day would be even better! I will keep you posted one what works.

 

A lot of snow machines have that spring loaded return switch, might be closer to what you need.

 

I have one 750 Seca that a PO wired in a riding lawn mower key switch. I guess new snowmobiles have that type of ignition switch , too.... Mine don't --- turn the key to 'ON', set the enricher, then pull the cord a few times.

Dave

 

I think this is where we would all love to spend our days, that is, when we are not out on our 2 wheel freedom machines.

FU

 

I am still puzzled by the location on the stock xj switch that turns on the tail light. why would you park your bike, lock the steering and turn on the tail light? is that supposed to take the place of 4 way flashers if you break down?

FU

 

No, it's so you kill the battery when least expect it. DAMHIKT

 

Yeah so I cant seem to figure it out. I am just having no luck, so Im pretty sure im just going to go back to the origianl way. win some and loose some i guess

 

I am having a similar issue. I tried moving my start button and kill switch to below the seat. Stock wiring has 2 white/red wires on the kill switch and 4 other wires to the button. The only way i could get the engine to turn over is wiring the 2 white/red wires to the button. But as soon as I let off the button the engine dies. But now, nothing happens at all when I turn the key so I don't know what I screwed up.

 

Yeah i ended up relocating my ignition and kill switch and push button to under my seat as well everything worked fine. Just follow the minimalistic wiring diagram above and everything will work perfect. Just take it each wire at a time and work around it.

 

It's for some Euro spec bikes, the law (used to, don't know if it still applies) requires when you park it on a city street that the front and rear lights remain on. Those bikes also had a small 4W bulb inside the bottom of the headlight housing that gave a "cat eyes" glow around the headlight. If you find an extra red wire and an un-used black wire bullet connector inside your headlight housing, now you know why they are there.....