tachometer/speedo cluster

Looking to scrap the OEM gauges, broken pointer on speedo and tachometer just plain doesn't work. What's good? What's out there? Do they have an electronic all in one deal? How does that hook up? Saw one @ BaldGuy page. Nice!!!

 

What year? What bike? Mechanical or electrical gauges wanted? How much are you willing to spend?

Dime City Cycles
Drag Specialties
Dakota Digital
Any cheapie from EBay

 

I see my work here is done.

 

If you're going to toss your old gauge cluster I might be interested I. It for parts ......

Dave fox

 

i know I'm tossing a bunch of parts off of mine...but I will be going with a setup from dime city and a matching tach

 

Looks like the same speedo I used for my setup...

 

and mine in sexy black....

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php ... 9722;image

Tried to post it as a linked picture but it never works for me... I wish the underlying website/forum format here was easier. I love the folks here and content but the format is terrible.. you should copy the DTT format.. so much easier... rant over...

 

Upload your pics to photobucket or a similar photo hosting site, easy-peasy posting links from there.. just like I did with my above pic

 

Did you have any trouble with the idiot lights on that speedo? I had one on a Sportster which gave me fits. I could only ever get the turn signal indicator to work on the left side, although the signals worked on both sides. If I hooked both sides to the light, the signals on both sides would flash together.
Oh, and after 20000 miles the needle would dance all over the place.

 

Problem is it doesn't work from photosites that mask the image syntax.. hey hum.. not trying to derail the OP's post... ignore me..

 

Yeah, there's a lot been said about that on other post.. check out my post on DTT that talks about adding diodes to each side of the turn signals before you connect them to the speedo turn light wire... also the high-beem light is ridiculously bring even when it's not "on". All the lights get some bleed illumination from the back-light but it's obvious when they are off/on - not so much with the blue one.. I'm living with it now but I am going to put a resistor inline - much like the diodes - that should dull it down.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php ... #msg681188

Also you have to install them with some kind of vibration protection, i.e. rubber washers, so the internal coils don't loose their tension - this is what causes the needle bouncing.. This can be tricky to do with the single bracket hole. people have fabricated brackets - I put a bolt together with some spring washers and rubber boots that works for now.

 

I'm still shopping but I think I might go with this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/400633392612

 

That is a interesting one! I've been looking myself. Haven t seen that one yet!
I wonder if we could get the fuel gauge to actually work?!?

 

i've been thinking (dangerous) on the turn signal indicator dash light.
if you can see the back of your signals it wouldn't be hard to put a single led on the back, top, side, that you could see and it would blink with the signal. make it any color you want, be the first one on your block....

 

Gonna revive this! Doesn't adding resistors create quite a bit of heat? Where physically are they located?

 

current causes heat in a resistor - or more accurately the displacement of current. The level of current that we're dealing with here is so low the heat generated is minimal. Obviously you gotta have the right size resistor but once it's wrapped in tape it's not noticeable at all. You can put it wherever you like really. I'd say it's about 1/1000th of the heat coming off the engine.

 

I used a similar speedo(like the one Mad Bohemian showed), then replaced the idiot light bulbs with different colored leds from the auto parts store. They worked fine.

 

I double-checked my Amazon link to the speedo I used, the Acewell 2853, and it would seem it's dead now. So here's the same thing on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acewell-285..._DefaultDomain_15&hash=item45fbbff2c0&vxp=mtr

Note that this is not the cheapest listing, but it has better pictures. It's also available in chrome. I don't yet know if the 750 fuel sender works with it, but when I find out later this year, I'll post back.

 

That depends on what the resistor is hooked to, and what it are being used for. For example, the ceramic resistors that are typicaly used as dummy loads when fitting LED signals will get hot enough to burn your hand, or to melt plastic bodywork.

 

I know this is way late, but I only just now looked back to see this. Hank, the turn signal indicator in our clusters are only wired as absolute indicators, i.e. it flashes whether its the left or the right. When I wired mine up, I ignored that wire entirely and instead fed directly from each turn signal; the green and brown wires if I remember correctly.

 

don't you have to have one-way diodes there, too? Otherwise, wouldn't the current feed back to the the other light?

Dave

 

Enough resistance at the dash bulb will prevent the bleedthrough from being enough to activate the other turn signal (this is what prevents the stock bulbs from activating via bleed-through voltage; the indicator bulb causes enough votage drop that the opposing signal bulb can't light up). Diodes are the more elegant (and electricaly efficient) solution.

 

Where's the shrugging emoticon when you need it?

I honestly don't know, Dave. I just connected it and it worked. As far as I can tell the left and right signal indicators on my unit are totally separate. They just share a single ground is all.

 

yeah I was talking in reference to this specific use case.

Secondly - when I installed this tack with turn-light instrument bulb on my xj the wire to the instrument panel was a single wire from both sides - so moe is right - then original design didn't have diodes due to 1980's bulbs displacing all the current. if you install LED's you need diodes else both sides will flash no matter which way you turn. If it doesn't for you Mr Wonder there must be something gating this or maybe a frame ground in just the right place somewhere.