1982 Yamaha XJ750J Project Launch - and Hello from MaximMax

Well, I couldn't stand having no ride any longer, and my Magna hunt wasn't panning out . . . SO:

I picked up this COMPLETE 33 year-old Maxim today, and rode it 60 miles home with no trouble. Hadn't been started in three years, has 27k miles on it, and the add for it read "Needs TLC."

Things I really like so far? It appears to be the "Deluxe" version of this bike, as in tons of chrome (turn signals, fenders, and license plate bracket, too!) and so forth, it also has:

1) Air adjustable front forks-pretty cool.
2) 6-way adjustable pegs AND handlebars.
3) A 4.5 Gallon fuel tank one of my peeves with the Magnas.
4) An "auxiliary" low beam headlight, switched under the kill switch.
5) A center stand AND a kick stand
6) DUAL front discs
7) Shaft Drive
8) An "integrated" chain lock that stores on the left side (keyed to ignition!).
9) The owner's manual AND the tool kit.
10) A cool computerized LED display that mostly works, including a fuel gauge (!)
11) Thumb choke lever underneath clutch on handlebar - nice.

Never had (or rode) a bike with shaft drive before, and I'm really liking the smooth feel of it, BUT the nest of hornets churning out the 85 HP under me makes up for the smoothness with plenty o' vibration for your hands, arms, and shoulders - takes me back to my Katana and GT750 days. Grips are the thinnest I've ever seen, too. No help at all LOL.

I know NOTHING about these bikes other than the parts are a lot cheaper than Magnas, (don't need many of them).

Gonna start with the fluids and the "TLC" tomorrow . . .

Any and all advice regarding this model muchly appreciated BTW, please DO feel free to chime in with whatcha know.

Things I DON'T like about it?

NO BRAKES lol. Fronts you gotta do the old "pump the pedal/lever" like in your first car. Rear drum might have some adjust but probably not . . . can somebody link me to a tutorial on bleeding and changing brake fluid. I kinda need these to work . . .

All that chrome + Florida salty air = plenty o polishing in my future, and corrosion is EVERYWHERE, not horrible, but annoying. (Tempted to swap fenders to the "Midnight Edition" black plastic ones).

Won't keep an idle, wants to die if throttle not kept up. But at least I can SEE the damn carbs LOL, and touch them, without removing half the bike to do so.

Fuel tank looks like someone had thought to debadge it, started, then stopped, leaving a pretty decent tank with "burn" marks on the side, not sure whether to rebadge and paint, or just paint.

"Ticking" sound from right side outboard cylinder, maybe it's normal for this model? Maybe not. Valves/timing chain/s need adjustment?

Overall, a very nice "antique" project for me, a daily rider that will keep me busy for a while.

Oh yeah, how much you ask? $550

Things I need?
New rear tire. Best source/best economical tire?
Fuel sensor not working. May simply not be hooked up . . . Hope springs eternal.
Mufflers on both sides. Headers are fine, but mufflers definitely show their age.

 

Welcome. Your "deluxe" Maxim is actually a standard Maxim 750, which is hard to believe considering how upselling features is the current model for motorcycle sales. The first thing you should do is click on The Information Overload Hour and read it front to back. Do not assume that the prior owner actually kept up on maintainance. Your brake system was probably never rebuilt, and the valves were probably never even checked, let alone adjusted.

Yes the engine vibrates, but once tuned up that will diminish. At one time it was considered one of the smoothest inline fours available, but I do understand your noticing it since you had been riding a V4. There are a few manufacturers of replica Grand Turismo grips (they have a coke bottle shape to them), which are exceedingly comfortable.

 

Looks like you've got a good starting point. K-moe's link to Information Overload hour is the best. It'll get you going with what's what with the XJ family of bikes, ie valve adjustment, carb cleaning, ect. One thing you should be sure to check is the condition of the rear brake shoes. They are known for delaminating, which leads to obvious safety issues. This should be done before any riding, as you said there are issues with the front brakes. Seems like the front system needs work too, cuz with two disks up there, stopping should not be an issue. Perhaps it's just the fluid, but your lines could also be 28 years or so past their life expectancy. Expect to spend a few bucks (a few hundred!) getting everything set up, but if the basics are ok, rest assured, you will be happy with the bike!

 

Shinko's, The last pair i bought was $48 for the front and $65 for the rear. They last for ever, they stick really well. And most of all the bike likes them, and if the bike likes them, the rider will like them. By the way welcome to the CLUB (tongue in cheek)

 

Kenda makes a nice, inexpensive tire as well.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated. Ran Seafoam in the tank, and some in the oil, prior to changing it, and the "ticking" I noticed is gone, I just hear what sounds like timing chains running, and they sound the same on both sides of the engine. This makes me smile, fo shizzle.
Had a chance to start with the work today, the easy stuff of course, battery, fluids, and such.
Here's a question I'm sure has been asked and answered a few times, so maybe a link to the thread?

The bike has a sensor that plugs into the battery and feeds into the computer, or it did 32 years ago. Computer shows no errors EXCEPT the battery indicator remains lit, due to the missing sensor. Not only that, but with today's sealed batteries, there is NO PLACE to connect it anyway.

Is there an easy fix to "trick" the computer into thinking the battery is "just fine" all the time, so the warning lights shuts off? Solder a resistor on the wire, or plug a fuse into it, or something?

Also, the speedometer reads intermittently as well. Simply replacing the cable should fix this, or is it indicative of a bad cluster?

Forgive the dumb questions, but I am new here, after all. Do you folks have a "boneyard" where members buy and sell parts to each other? Can you link me to it, if so? Thanks.

 

Chacal sells a kit for the battery sensor. If you are handy you can do the same thing with bullet connectors, shrink wrap, a ring connector, and a 2.2K ohm resistor. Just hook it up to the sensor lead, and to the positive battery post. YUASA sells the battery sensor if you want to run a flooded battery. I think Chacal sells it too.

A new speedometer cable may cure the intermittant speedometer. Check the "ears" on the speedometer drive where they touch the wheel hub. They can get bent and that would cause the same problem. Finally the speedometer itself may need servicing.

 

Bought the Shinko off Amazon, $71 bucks delivered with prime shipping. Thanks!

 

any time

 

By the way, check the lower frame for any chipped paint, rust, corrosion, since you live in a salty environment.

 

You bet! Picked up some glossy black today, gonna paint the center and side stands, and anywhere else that needs it . . . .

One more thing: Anybody got a bloody idea where to get the proper key blank for this model? I've searched everywhere online, my particular key doesn't exist in this universe, apparently. Key number is B23242, and I'd like the "plastic top" (OEM style) if I can find them . . . which I can't lol. Ideas anyone?

 

Big flashing sign in the upper right hand corner of every page. Click it.
Or start a conversation with Chacal.

Also...use an awl to poke around the lower frame. Just looking won't show you the rust that may be lurking on the inside of the frame tubes, but has not yet surfaced.

 

I bought an 83 few months back 3400 miles went thru the brakes bought all ss lines from len new shinkos all the way around put lower bars on it polished some engine covers forks and did the rest of the maintenance ready to ride now. 83 a little different then 82 normal bars round headlamp and normal gauges. I am hoping to get many years of use out of it

 

IMHO and most of us here would agree that the XJ engines will outlast a Magna all day long.

 

Or just go to Ace Hardware? They have the proper blanks, oddly enough. $6 for two keys . . . but thanks!

 

Wow, you got yourself a nice Maxim there! I have two of them and a Magna that I have yet to get in proper running condition. It’s clean as all get out, but something is up with either the carbs or——well, I just can't figure it out. it’s an ’83 750 and it’s an absolutely beautiful bike, I just need some time and $$ to throw its way.

 

She's beautiful! Those boots on the front forks . . . are they stock for that year?

 

Lucky you. My ACE did not. My old-timey locksmith even had to order them in. I apologise for answering your question.

 

No apology necessary. My only issue is $, or the lack thereof. Therefore, my first, or "go-to" source for any part or service will NEVER be the dealer or "official supplier." Why?

Because EVERYBODY knows that you can get "part or service X" from the dealer for full retail price. There is no need to refer anyone to that source--it's common knowledge. (Assuming the part is yet available).

What I, (most folks?) are looking for is a resource for the part or service that does NOT cost full retail price. Those keys I asked about, are available online for $35, shipping included. I could have simply bought them there (as I did for my last project) but in this case I now have $29 to spend on something else . . .

Now I realize that forums cost money to run and maintain, but some of us simply cannot afford to run to the dealer for every part. I DO intend to patronize your sponsor/s, but not for parts/information/supplies that I can get/make/do myself or find elsewhere for 1/4 the price.

FYI and as a FREE service to all: The blanks that were used to make the keys for my 82 Yamaha Maxim XJ750J (found at ACE Hardware) were "Hy-Ko YH-47." Can't find them at ACE? Follow this link:

http://www.keys4urride.com/yh47-yamaha-p-78.html ($4 each)

You're welcome!

 

Agree - to a point, I have found a local valve shim source that is cheaper and (obviously) quicker. However do not be so quick to poo-poo XJ4Ever - his customer service and speedy delivery are the best in the west. I once (and only once) went to a different supplier on-line - my order was delayed and getting a reply from them was like pulling teeth; XJ4Ever will successfully communicate to you about your order, let you know if you accidentally are ordering the wrong part for your bike AND will sometimes provide printed directions for replacing the part you ordered. He is a great guy providing a great service. I have no qualms with spending a few $$ more to order from XJ4Ever (never found anything that was at 1/4 of his price!)

 

Len will also accept phone calls to help you solve a problem.

FYI: There are four different key blanks for the XJ 750.

 

Be that as it may. The information that I gave above (HY-KO YH-47 key blank) remains valid for the Yamaha Key sequence number beginning with "B." Mine specifically is "B2324X," and that blank worked.