problem dont know where to go next

I just finished a complete rebuilding of carbs all the rubber and shaft seals. Valves in spec. Bench synced. Idle mixture screws at 2.5. Put the carbs on bike and did not put on airbox to carb boots on. Started it and had to kill it it idled so high. I can't even propane test it like this cause it is idle ing to high. #1 cylinder feels quite a bit colder that the rest. All the plugs are black and wet(probably have to get new plugs or sandblast maybe). The choke plugers go back down fine. I just don't know where to go from here thanks

 

So put the boots on!

 

agreed, put the boots on, if it still revs high, check your idle screw is turned out, check your linkage is not binding, make sure your throttle cable and choke cable are not reversed and lastly, your butterfly valves are not seated correctly and letting air pass by when they should be shut. This is assuming that you performed a "clunk test" and all the carbs passed...

 

after installing carbs(ran fine with out the boots) my motor redlined on start
these 4 things were problems

throttle cable at carb must sit in its holder
check the adjuster at the throttle grip PO had it adjusted as tight as it would go
if your wheel is turned to right check that throttle cable is not binding up at fork kept throttle from returning
idle speed Knob rear of carbs in to far set about 2200


i do have to say all this talk of carb boots being so critical, it ran fine without them purred , but that is with bike just standing there. I would wait on boots untill you solve the high idle

 

Run the idle screw out until it does not touch the linkage. Then run it in 1.5 turns past the point in just makes contact.

If the carbs are off, prior to install and after I bench sync the carbs, I always back the idle screw out until only the first hole in the throat can be seen when the butterflies are closed.

 

Ok I had the carbs off and decided to check the manifoold gaskets and the #2 looked like the PO just put like a liquid gasket and does not look like it sealed very well. I have 4 new ones on the way. Hopefully that solves the problem. What does it mean to have the throttle cable binding.I cleaned the boot and head where the boot goes really good what else should I do when installing the new gaskets. Should I use antiseize.

 

binding means it is at a bad angle and probaly is misrouted in the frame.
when my bike is on the kick stand wheel turned to right if I open up on the throttle it will stick when i release the throtle because of the bend up at the head stock i will check the routing tomorrow and correct that . without starting the bike you will see that the on carb side of the throttle cable it does not drop all the way back down (return to idle screw) untill you turn the wheel. not my idea of cruse control

 

always use antiseize and loctite the blue stuff not the red.where you use it depends on the fastener
just a little goes a long way, wear gloves. carb manifold bolts antiseize side covers and exhaust bolts antiseize. loctite on screws and bolts that may fall ,off just a drop

 

Free play in throttle cable. You should be able to turn ever so slightly BEFORE the carbs start to open. This is checked with steering full left and right.this is a common problem when you change handle bars

 

Probably wouldn't make the thing rev all the way super high as you described, but also do you have the air filter in, and the restrictor on the top of the air box in place, as well as the seat?

 

idle should be about 1200 sorry for the typo

 

Been there, done that. Scared the bejesus outta me when it fired up!

 

My intake gaskets are coming in today should i install them with any silicone or gasket maker or just normal

 

Personally I wipe some silicone on the inside where the carb will go, makes it easier to slide on and won't hurt. I don't suggest gasket maker or anything that will harden. Mileage may vary, but I find that more of a pain than a profit.