first time build 82 j550 maxim

You can remove the cams to get the shims out, but that is a much bigger job than I think you want to tackle. More to the point, if you can't get the shims to pop out of the buckets now, you either don't have the valves held open enough, or have shims that are stuck so badly that they may not come out even with the cams out of the way (the latter issue is highly unlikely).

LEts' cover this is three parts.

Can you pop the shims free of their buckets?

Once free you can grab then shim with a magnetic pickup tool


Getting the last bit of plastic out may require you to bring that cylinder to a point just before TDC when the intake valve is still open so you can get some airflow through the chamber when the vacuum is beung used.

Post up a pic of the valve shim you are working on with the valve being held open. That will let me see if you just don't have enough clearance between the heel of the cam and the shim; either because of the tool you are using, or the cam positioning.

 

ok i rechecked the clearances how you described i finaly got the first exhaust shim out and now the clearance is way off of what i had first suspected something must be f***ed up here
exhaust 70mm 10mm 19mm 12mm
intake 15mm 12mm 12mm 6mm
the first 2 shims i got out were
exhaust 260 ? ? ?
intake 270 ? ? ?
these are from left to right while sitting on the bike

it seems like the metal ring around the shim is sticking to the shim as it comes up when i try to pull the shim out

 

They will do that. The shim has to be a close fit or the cam will spit it out when the engine is running.

Rechecking clearances right after removing a shim will not yield an accurate measurement as the shim will not be fully seated in the bucket until the cam has gone through several rotations. You have to measure first, then remove the shim to read what it is, then use the chart to find the shims that you need.

You can use your original measurements to figure what the new shims need to be. My comment about the feeler gauge use was meant to be for you to use the next time you have to check clearances.

Make a chart. Four columns, one for each cylinder. Two sections, one for each type of valve. Each section divided into three lines. Line 1, measured clearance. Line 2, current shim. Line 3, shim needed.

 

ok i finally got the hang of getting the shims out i only checked the ones that were out of spec for fear of breaking off another plastic zip tie into my cylinder "which i still have not got the last piece and can no longer see" i will more then likely grab some wire at home depot or order the tool to change the shims but here is what i have

exhaust between .16mm and .20mm

inlet between .11mm and .15mm

my exhaust is
.11mm - #260
.14mm - the shim was blank
.19mm - in spec
.11mm - 265

my inlet is
.15mm - #270
.12mm - in spec
.11mm - in spec
.6mm - #275

 

I'm happy to hear that you can get the shims out of the buckets now.

You really do need to know what all of the shims are. That will help you the next time you do valve checks since you won't have to look to see what shims are there before ordering replacements.

You can get an inxpensive set of calipers so you can measure the blank shim and figure out what it is.

The remaining bit of zip-ty can pretty well be ignored if it is too small to see. it will either get blown out of the exhaust valve or burned up.

 

Sorry to chime in but when you cracked open to check the valve clearances what kind of shape were your gaskets in? Need 2 new gaskets if this is the first time (or its been a long time) that gaskets have been opened.
I believe it's one for valve cover and one for crank case?
Good luck
-EM

 

gaskets look to be in good shape actually which was a bit of a surprise

any set of calipers will do the job?

i was checking what shins i will need and one of my shims happen to be the blank row on the chart what dose this mean

 

A blank row signifies that the valve clearance is in spec.

Any inexpensive dial or digital caliper that reads to 0.01 mm will do. A micrometer will work also, but tend to be more expensive.

 

is there anywhere i can buy these valve shims? the dealer said the number 70 shim i need has been discontinued and he had one that i need but its in California he told me i could bring in a shim to see if there is any aftermarket ones that would be the same fit

the shim pool must be a no go for me since i messaged hogfiddles and haven't gotten a response in a week

so is there anywhere i can get them online maybe or do you know about the aftermarket ones?

 

Talk to Chacal (Len) he has any shim you'll need and also tons more parts.
-EM

 

Yep, Len is gonna be the man.

 

If you don't want to spend the dough on a set of calipers or micrometer I would think you could stick a different shim in there with a visible number on it, slowly crank the motor over a few times to seat the shim, and take a new reading.

Yamaha dealerships are worthless when it comes to these bikes. You will probably have better luck with a smaller bike repair shop. I was surprised to find the shop right down the road from me was super friendly, knowledgeable, and has had shims and a few other random things I've needed in stock on the cheap. If that doesn't work then Chacal is definitely your man. He's got what you need, has always provided me with above-and-beyond top-notch service, and ships really fast.

 

That would work, but I would caution that unless you have an excellent idea of what size the unknown shim might be you are playing with fire. A decent (good enough for this purpose) set of digital calipers can be had for around $12.

 

ok guys i went and checked out the shop and got the shims i needed for 5 bucks a pop all the valves are in spec now and the bike is up and running better then before i cant wait to get the carbs synced up i will probably change out the oil and filter later today the

 

Have you cleaned the carbs yet?

 

that was one of the first things i did and i got rid of the surface rust that was in the tank and threw an inline filter in with some new gas lines but i think i might have a small leak in my tank which will now be my next project

 

when i go get the oil for my bike what kind should i pick up is car oil and motorcycle oil the same i need
SAE 20W/40 SE
also dose anyone know how much oil the xj550 maxim holds its in my book but im out as of right now

 

Check the first link in my signature. Car oil is a big no.
The crankcase capacity is cast into the clutch cover next to the oil fill plug. There is an upper limit mark right next to the sight glass so you don't overfill.

 

I use rotella t triple protection 15w40

 

this one heavy duty diesel oil?

 

Yep, good stuff.

 

Sweet i just picked up some at Walmart and as for the leak in my tank luckily i have a second one i just have to derust it its filled and in the dryer as i type but i plan on fixing the leak in the other tank and taking on a paint job i can see where the last guy tried to fix the leak and whatever he put on is just chipping off

 

sorry its taken so long to post an update guys me and my wife had our third child and i have started taking classes for HVAC so i have not had much time to work on my bike let alone even ride it but I'm ready to spend some money and get a few parts to slowly piece her together.

#1 i was adjusting my mirror and accidentally busted my kill switch on the throttle side where can i find this piece? i currently have the switch off and jumped the two leads with a wire and some tape if i leave this connected all the time which would make it in the on position will this kill my battery even with the key out?

#2 I'm looking to replace the tires but i am not sure on size i kind of like the look of a fatter rear tire is this possible on an 82 maxim 550? if not what are the sizes i should be looking at?

#3 when i have the tires off I'm going to paint the rims black is it easy to put the new tires on or can i just take them to my local car tire shop and have them put on there or dose it have to be a motorcycle specific shop?

#4 with the tires off i want to replace the front and back breaks and the break lines what size lines do i need to get? anything i should know about replacing the pads?

#5 i also plan to replace the chain and sprockets how to i determine the chain tension? is this a tool i could rent at an auto zone or dose it need to be purchased?

thanks for any info you can help with i will be searching the forum for any info i can find if there is anything else you can think off i should do while the tires are off please give me a heads up

 

1 xj4ever.com has the mirrors get the one with wider black trim .
when the key is off there is no voltage supplied to the bike. the main fuse 20 amp connects to the key switch. when key is on the voltage is supplied to the other fuses.
ebay will have the engine cut off switch (kill switch) xj4ever.com may have it to and possible a used one.
2 front 100/90-19 rear 130/90-16
3 you may find some shops will not mount tires you did not buy from them yamaha dealer would not mount them local bike shop would not do it . I found a small shop that would mount and balance them.

4 xj4ever.com for the brake lines, front pads will need the mounting hole enlarged to accept the pin. use a drill bit wraped in sand paper

5 chain tension is a measure ment of the deflection i use an old folding wood carpenter ruler it can be set on ground and extended up. i use my calipers to measure both sides of the chain adjusters to make them even