Not the best day... problem with one turn signal, fuel issues (i think)...

Hey all,
I was on here a year ago, got the carbs cleaned up properly and wet set, new fuse box, inspected brakes... It was running fairly well then, though I knew it needed fine tuning including valve shim adjustment, and vacuum syncing. Also new brake lines and a new rear tire once I'm finally ready to do serious riding.

Then came winter, bike was put down properly in friends garage and I left town for awhile. Lost my left mirror... but hey free storage...

And now I'm back at it, more wrenching then riding on this originally $100 (and always climbing) toy.
I think I've got enough information on the valve adjustments from threads on here, though I botched it today by taking measurements not at room temperature.

But there's one new problem and one old one I could use help with. I've tried searches, but sometimes its hard to know what I'm looking for.

My left turn signal works just fine, though very occasionally it fails to turn on. I can hear the relay working, lights flashing front and back and turning off with the switch. The right signal doesn't really work at all. If I really dig in on the switch, sometimes it will turn on, but not flash. I do have a copy of the wiring diagram, but would appreciate any guidance on what to check in what order and how. Or maybe just cleaning on the switch box? I didn't dig in there too much today for fear of messing it up real bad.

And the more serious fuel issue. I took bike out for short ride yesterday. It seems to be running fine and then the engine will kill and not restart. If I switch to prime for a few seconds it will start again, maybe run for a few minutes, then kill again. If I leave it on prime the bike will ride without dying, but then its running at way to high RPMS, hard to dial in the choke, etc. Last year I installed an inline fuel filter and I'm wondering if there could be an issue in the way the fuel line is routed? Or the vacuum line isn't working? How would I check this? There is gas in the tank, but its not full.

Any advice or encouragement would be appreciated. Feeling frustrated with the project at the moment. I will try again tomorrow finishing up the valve measurements at least. Hopefully taking on the turn signals soon and the fuel issue next week if there's time.

Its a 1981 XJ650h

thanks y'all

 

What year/model?

I too am having issues with turn signals. However, I think I have a pinched wire where the wires exit the housing. I can loosen my housing, rotate it, then my signals work. Rotate the housing back, and no signal.

Check your wires going into the housing of the left control assembly.

 

just spray some brake cleaner in where the lever goes into the housing and work the switch a few times. if that fixes it give a little shot of LPS1 in the same place, don't use WD40.
next time it stalls, try opening the gas cap. it has a vent in it, no air in, no gas out.
don't worry about "room temperature" if you were able to work on it, it wasn't too hot.

 

Thanks for some encouragement.

I tried the brake cleaner but no luck. And wiggling the cables/housing. Does seem a bit pinched in there. Will tackle fuel issue next week once I get new valve shims...

 

this is a link to a thread that may help you it has photos
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/82-xj750-maxim-and-manual-turn-signal-cancel.63450/

pull your vac line from the manifold boot
disconnect the fuel line from the tank and add a length to the petcock run it to a jar.
it has been stated here in the forums to suck on the vac line with petcock in normal position and fuel should flow freely into the jar. if you have a vaccum pump you can use that.
I would replace the vacum line at this point and it must be a vaccum line not fuel line, unless you know that it is not old. the line could be pinching.

I assume your gas is a year old , drain it and put in fresh gas.
if opening the gas cap helps out
here is a link to rebuild the gas cap if the vent is clogged from the xjforever home page how to's
http://www.xj4ever.com/gas cap.pdf

i have read a thread on another site stating if you have an air bubble in your fuel line it can stop fuel flow when hot, I do not think this is all that true I have transparent fuel line and have a bubble in it with no problems. It can be bled out.

 

any chance your bulbs are burnt out?

len sells an excellent mirror at http://www.xj4ever.com/ he is listed in the supporting vendors, good price i got the one with for black trim around the mirror. I will be buying another one from him to replace the left side which is rusted in position.

 

Thanks for the tips... those photos will be helpful for cleaning out the switch housing. Bulbs are definitely not burnt out since I can get the right side to come on briefly, but not flash.

Gas is a year old but I added some Sta-bil to the tank and drained carbs before putting it down for the winter.

Might as well replace vac line will only cost a few bucks.

 

Oh by the way, regarding the gas cap. The cost of a new seal from Len is close to $30 + any other overhaul parts (ball valve, etc.). A whole new gas cap shipped from hongkong is $20 on ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gas-Tank-Cap-Cover-Keys-for-YAMAHA-MAXIM-XJ-XS-400-550-650-700-750-1100-/171440301782?fits=Make:Yamaha|Model:XJ650&hash=item27eaa366d6&vxp=mtr)

Thoughts about the ebay cap if it does turn out I need to replace/overhaul? I do want to do it right, but truth is I can't spend too much on this project right now and I really just want to be able to use the bike to get around!

I did look in there the other day... the seal is definitely worn/fraying/brittle.

 

My thoughts on the repro cap is that it will be a gamble. There is really no way to know how it will work out until someone here trys it. I do know that it will likely not be OEM quality, but it may be good enough.

 

Double check the wattage on your bulbs as well. My signals weren't flashing on one side and it turned out ONE bulb was different. Now that I've replaced it with the correct wattage bulb the flashers work flawlessly.
A thanks to k-moe on that as I read his recommendation to someone else.
-EM

 

Imo rebuild the cap and forget about it. Then you'll know it'll properly function.

Gary H.

 

So today I got the new valve shims in, new valve cover gasket. When I fired it up, there was some smoking coming from the front of engine/near exhaust. Is this normal? Some gunk that got in there, extra gasket sealant, etc. burning off?

Bulbs all have same wattage... not quite sure where to go next but I'll give housing a thorough cleaning.

Still seems to be a fuel delivery issue... even with gas cap open. Is it possible that its bad fuel line routing? Seems like with the inline filter it kind of makes the fuel line twist a bit more than it should.

 

oops double post.

 

Another few suggestions I might offer would be to either rebuild your petcock, or you can get an aftermarket petcock as well that is not vaccuum operated and has only ON/OFF.
When you did your carbs did you also read through the church of clean? there are many things that can be overlooked and also if you did your valve clearances AFTER your carbs, your carbs will need to be re-synced.
Best of luck

-EM

 

I did go through the church of clean, broke the rack, the whole nine yards. I actually never did the vacuum sync. I thought you had to do the valves first so that's why I waited.

 

You did the right thing by waiting on the vac sync.

 

Agreed