Bike wont start

ok guy i got my non vacuum fuel valve i get everything hooked up and go to start the bike and nothing. I know its getting gas now because its leaking from the fuel rail. Also i use to be able to get it to start on starting fluid now it wont even do that. Any ideas

 

Gone through the carbs thoroughly?

 

Yes the carbs have been gone thru

 

Leaking through the fuel rail? Are the plugs wet?

 

The plugs are not wet and they do not smell like gas. However the spark plugs are black

 

Fully charged battery? Got apark?

 

You should never have fuel leaking from anywhere. Tend to your carbs before you end up with a fire.

In The Church of Clean

 

first thing is to place your fire extingusher aside of your bike it pass pull pin aim spray and sweep.
what do you mean be go to start it and nothing?
could be a loose electrical connector under the gas tank that got knocked loose when you reinstalled the tank, are your clamps on fuel line in the proper place and tight?
what work have you done on the carbs.
check your oil level you may now have a crank case full of gas.....
you could be flooding the motor with excess fuel.
when you first fill the carbs sometimes you have to tap on the bowls to get the floats to work correctly
against the inrush of fuel and air trying to escape.
fsm guide to ignition problems.



also check your voltages to tci
go through all tests

 

did you bring them to the church of clean just read another thread you posted about no fuel flow

did you cap off the vaccum nipple like the other 3?

 

you will have to pull the carbs and carefully look to see why they are leaking, and make all the proper adjustments.

 

Lokitruck,
You should have stayed with your "non vacuum petcock" thread. Thataway members would know what you've done.

Gary H.

 

or provide links to them in your first post of the new thread

 

Ok it turns out the fuel leak was a loose fuel line so now its not leaking. I went to try to start it this morning and it sputtered for a second then cut off. I hooked my truck up to the battery and it just cranked. All of the connections were connected. As for anything else i dont have a volt regulator

 

Your bike does not have one of these!?

I hope that you mean something else, because if the voltage regulator isn't there you'll never get the bike started; and if it's bypassed you will have a whole heap of troubles.

 

I have that. I meant I don't have the tool to measure voltage

 

A digital multimeter (dmm).

Gary H.

 

Or analog. <3 my Simpson 260. I even like my $5 GB electrical; carry it in my toolkit when I'm traveling.


EDIT: Geez, they cost more than $11 now.
http://www.amazon.com/GB-Electrical-GMT-12A-5-Function-Multitester/dp/B00002N5EX

 

picked up a spare dmm at walmart the other day for 20$ it has a temp prob to 1800 degrees.
the 25 $one had a battery condition tester but no temp probe.
simpson meter big black bakalite box? havent seen mine for years

 

Again...I knew you were going to say that!. Nothing fancy but I have both.



Gary H.

 

I see you have both shoes as well Gary!

 

after trying to start the bike for a while, i will let it sit and try to start it the next morning and it will sputter to life for a split second then cut off and then just crank

 

Loki,
Some of the answers you seek have been given. Your bike will not idle nor run until you properly tend to and test specific components. Let's go back...are the valves in spec? Got a compression number for each cylinder? Hang in there, we're here to help, but we need you to do your part in a certain way so together we can get it to idle and keep it running.

Gary H.

 

Valves are in spec yes. Now forgive me. the coils on the driver side is ignition coils and the passenger side is the pick up coils?
Ignition coils are reading 3.4 ohm
Pick up coils are reading 3.3 ohm. Is this right?
Im still unclear on how to check if the tci unit is good

 

You have two coils. Left side is for cylinders 1 and 4; right side is for cylinders 2 and 3. The pickup coils are under the left-side YICS cover.

The only DYI check for the TCI is to swap it with a known-good TCI, or swap a suspect TCI onto a known-running motorcycle.

 

Does anyone sell replacement tci units

 

Sorry again how do i check the pick up coils ohm?

 

i checked the ignition coils from the spark plug boot to the coil and i was getting no reading. I took my number one spark plug out and ground it to something and saw no spark. Is it safe to assume my ignition coils are bad? I tested both the coils number 1 and 4. Numbers 2 and 3 and got zero reading. Is it wierd that both would go bad?

 

Do you have a manual? You're trying to test for spark. You need to test the primary (power into the coils) and secondary (power out of the wires and caps) to the spark plugs. The secondary should be tested with and without the caps because a bad resistor (inside the cap) doesn't make the coil bad.

Gary H.

 

Ok so i checked secondary ignition coil wrong. I stuck the multimeter ends in both the 1 and 4 spark plug and got a blip of numbers and the same thing on the 2 and 3 cylinders. So i will unscrew the spark plug boots and check again tomorrow.

 

I do have a manual. I watched a youtube video that lead me in a wrong direction however after searching past threads i now know the correct way to do it and will attemp and keep everyone posted

 

Unless a Youtube video is linked from this site you should ignore it.

 

Reconnect the primary side when testing the secondary, use the ohms scale to test the primary (2.5Ω +/- 10%) and the kilo ohms scale to test the secondary (11KΩ +/- 20%).

Gary H.

 

After taking the spark plug boots off to check the secondarys both are in the lower 120oo range. I think that is good. Right? Well now on to the pick up coils but i am still unclear how to check them.

 

you test the pick up coils by unpluging the left connector of the tci it should read 650ohms for each coil

there are 2 pick up coils you will be testing,
i have a 550 max there are 4 wires in the left connector one is black to a bullet connector ignor it then there should be 2 wires of different color and another black. the black wire is a common wire then a gray wire 650 ohms between them then an orange wire test between black and ogange wire 650 ohms
you will set your meter to 2 k ohms and see .650 for a reading

see this thread
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/she-messed-up-again-boys.69852/

 

I checked the pick up coils and if i did it correctly then i may have found the problem. I pulled the left connector and checked from the black wire to the gray and it read 014 ohms. Then i checked from the black wire to the orange wire and it read 013 ohms. So what does this mean. Is it more likely that i checked wrong?

 

The left connector from the tci unit i mean

 

how many wire you got in that tci connector just checking, and you did unplug to check ohms? just to be sure your black wire was not the one with bullet connector. if you follow the harness it goes down the bike to the shifter area.
its supposed to be 650 ohms tested in the 2k ohms setting on meter, should read .650k ohms
you need new pickup coils if tested 013 and 014.

I would start by following harness down and removing it there may be another bullet connector on it which goes to the neutral switch , you may need to remove shifter side cover. the harness should go into the left side crank cover, just making sure you are testing the correct harness
before you go out and buy the part

 

I checked the ohms off the 4 wire connector. Should I have checked off the 6 wire connector?

 

the connector on the left as you sit on the bike yes it is 6 positions with 4 wires i will go get a photo

 

left connector 6pos 4 wires ignore the black and white wire disconnect to test

 

The easy way is to take the gas tank off and check the primary resistance at the coils. It's also the best way since the spec does not take into account the resistance of the wiring harness.

 

now for more confusion unplug right connector
test primary on ignition coil (spark plug coil)
to test your primary for the ignition coil (spark plug coil)
ohm reading for plug on right between red/white wire and orange. ohm reading gray wire to red/white wire

set meter to lowest ohm setting looking for 2.5 ohms +- 10%
if this test fails you will remove tank and test at connector at coils

 

he wants to test the pickups, but yes when testing primary it is best to get as close as possible to the ignition coil

 

I did check the ignition coils already the primarys and the secondarys and they were to spec. I did pull the wrong connector to check the pick up coils so I need to check that when I get home. I already have the tank off so that's how I checked the ignition coils. If the pick up coil ends up having the right amount or ohms then that would leave me to believe the tci unit is bad?

 

After rechecking my pick up coils off the right connector this time I had a reading of
Orange wire = 660
Gray wire = 673.
I think the pick coils are good. so does that mean the tci unit is bad?

 

If the pick up coils ohm out and your main ignition coils ohm out and you still do not have spark then you should pull the TCI and send it to one of the guys who fixes them. Robert used to but I'm not sure who else is doing that these days

 

Have you confirmed that there is voltage reaching the TCI?

 

Kmoe i have checked everything from the ignition coils on down the line to the tci. Im not sure what you mean though asking if the tci unit is getting voltage is there a way to check?

 

Does anyone on here still fix them?