Redone Valves, Rough Running

Just got done putting in my new valve shims, and reassembled. I had a hell of a time getting the thing started and after a little starting fluid, she fired up finally but is running pretty rough.
I has more of a chug sound now than it did before and is a lot more deep sounding, but i can't get it to idle, it only runs when the throttle is held open.
I did the finger compression test on all cylinders and every cylinder would push my finger from the sparkplug hole. Did i do something wrong, overlook something maybe?
thanks

 

Now it is time to sync the carbsand adjust the pilot mixture. New plugs would also help.

 

well i synched the butterfly valves, readjusted the float levels, set the mixture screws to 3 turns out and still no go. The bike hardly starts and with the help of a squirt of ether, bad i know, it fires but runs pretty bad.

It will not idle, and when warmed idles for a minute then dies. Sounds choppy and when riding from about 2k - 4k RPM's it has poor throttle response and kind of cuts out, but sitting still in nuetral it has no problem revving. Above 2k -4k it acts alright. I also noticed a ticking sound coming from cylinder 4 area.

The bike ran pretty well before this and the carbs were cleaned 7 times prior, that's no exaggeration. I checked the metering holes or whatever those little holes are in the float bowls and they are fine, and the float needles and diaphrams move easily.

I am considering taking it to the local dealership, i feel i have wasted alot of time on this bike and it has made little improvement. How bad do stealerships rape you? Any other advice?

 

I'd do a compression test to make sure there wasn't a major mistake on the shim job.

If that's ok then I'd look for what got messed up in the fuel system when I had the tank off to do the valves.

 

plug wires in the correct position?

 

Check the TIMING MARKS with Number 1 at Top Dead Center!
I want to hear that you are on the Marks and the Chain is TIGHT!

What are the Clearances 1 ~ 4 on BOTH sides after the Shim Job?

Let's get that out of the way before we dig in to what happened.

Right now ... what we have to Go on is:

"Shims Happened and it's possible to lose timing!

Don't be running that bike until we get to the Bottom of this.
If you're out of TIMING ...
That ain't a good thing!

 

i just took it a couple miles down the highway and noticed that when in gear 5, it wont go above 5k RPMs. It feels like it's chugging and cant go any faster, But on 1 - 4 i has pretty decent acceleration. Plug wires are fine, all the plugs are about a year old and are gapped correctly. If i had a compression tester, i'd test it

 

Park it!

 

mechanic? i'm not ready for a $400 bill

 

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Hey, are shims a stock item in at the dealer?

 

Shims are a Stock Item.

There are plenty of Bike's that all use the same Diameter Shims.
You don't need the Dealer.

 

Regarding the dealer: Rick, but then I'd have to order them, I assume.

 

You can walk-in and pick-em-up at the Dealer.

My last visit was just last week for Shims. I couldn't wait.

3 Shims for $15.00.

I could have got a deal if I needed 4.

I could have got four ... for only 20-Bucks!

 

Possibly got the timing chain marks out of time???

 

nailed it on the head, i came in for a cold one and had a quick question, i got the cam chain tension out and the chain is loose but i just can't quite slide it off the sprocket to adjust the camshafts individually, is there a way to do this without taking the caps off?