Xj550 seca electrical

Absolutely. Use cable lube (auto parts store) don't use wd-40.

Gary H.

 

Ok I'm taking the gas tank off to refinish it, I disconnected the fuel line from the petcock and it just leaks fuel. It my petcock bad or did I do something wrong? I didn't think fuel came out without vacuum, am I wrong?

 

if fuel is flowing with out vacuum it is because you have it in pri position or you need to fix the petcock

 

Yea it was coming out, not as much of a flow when I switched it to the pri position to drain it tho.

Also I'm sure there are threads for this but I'm guessing I need to refinish the inside of my tank if possible because this is what all came out at the end. the container was clean, so all that's in there is from the tank.

Also thinking I should replace (not sure the name of it) the float that reads the gas level, it's all pretty messed up looking.
Out of focus pic sorry, but looks like the float part was repaired at some point with some sort of epoxy?

 

there are many ways to clean a tank.
fish graval and drier.
electrolisis
phospheric acid will neutral all the rust

 

Found another issue. The inside of the tank is not only rusty, but there's some sort of coating that's peeling off and I can only get a bit out. The rest is still stuck on, but peeled off the inside of the tank in a huge thick section. Can't seem to get it off, there's not much room to be messing around with the inside of the tank

Is it possible to get all this off? It's super rusty underneath it. Must've been peeled off for a while inside. Is the tank salvageable or should I start looking for replacements. I think I saw a thread about using tanks from different bikes, not sure if I wanna go that route.

 

I think I would fill that thing with pea gravel or fish tank gravel, cork the holes, wrap some old blankets around it and put it in the dryer on tumble (I think that's the no heat setting..)

EDIT: And then see what it looks like inside.

 

Dry, or with some sort of solution in there?
I think I've seen people use vinegar, and various other mixtures that supposedly gets rid of rust. I'm not too worried about the rust, I know I can even get some store bought stuff specifically for rust removal, but I just want to know that all that thick coating is gone...I can't see gravel taking that stuff off if I can't even PULL it off lol.

I'll give it a shot tho, maybe I'll fill the tank with HOT soapy water first and slosh it around. Drain it, then put the gravel in it and give it a spin.

I was hoping not to run into these issues, I was just going to strip and repaint the tank but now it's ANOTHER project.

 

I did it dry when I did my tank, let it break up all the big nasty stuff so you can just dump that out, then if there's not a lot of surface rust left you can just rinse it out with some gas. Mine was pretty gross inside so I filled it with diet coke (for the phosphoric aid) and let it sit for a day. The rinsed it out a few times and made sure to add an inline filter. So far all the gas i've dumped on myself while I did the float levels was pretty clean looking.

 

Check out this video:

There are a ton of variations on this theme on the 'tube

 

this is why i don't like tank liners. this is going to get worse before it gets better

 

That's what I was afraid of. I haven't tried the "tumbler" method yet but I'm very skeptical about it even doing anything to remove the liner. I can literally pull as hard as I can on that piece you see in the picture and it doesnt come off. Doubtful that some bolts or gravel rolling on it is going to remove it. I'm guessing there's no chemical way to remove this?

 

You can use MEK to remove that stuff. It's super toxic and absolutely no fun to play with but it's "fast", If you don't mind taking some time you can fill it with vinegar and let it sit for a few days apparently vinegar will soften and lift the liner. Or if you don't care about paint you can take it to a radiator shop and have them "tank" it which just means they boil it and it removes everything but the metal.

 

well then leave it there But it seems there might be other flakes in there that tumbling would get out. Before you start into this you should have a close look at the bottom edges of that tank, maybe even use stripper.If you find and spots that might be patched or thin from rust, just start looking for another tank

 

There is one spot that's "patched", looks like a wad a bubble gum or modeling clay was stuck on it. It doesn't leak or anything that I've noticed. Can't really afford a new tank right now so I'm trying to make-do with this one

 

i'd still look into another tank, you never know what you'll find. tumble the one you have with a bunch of nuts and bolts, see how that goes. then that patch, i wouldn't trust one somebody else did. Solder would be the best way to patch it yourself unless you're a TIG welder.

 

Ok so I'm getting pretty beat up about this gas tank. I stripped it to bare metal, got the inside clean as best I could with the tumbling method. Followed directions for painting it very carefully. Sanding, priming, painting, wetsand/polishing etc.

Appearantly after using the paint remover/stripper (or maybe from shaking the bolts around I caused it), I must've removed some sealer that was used to cover a few pinhole leaks. Because after it was all repainted and let set for a few days, I put my repainted exhaust back on, put the tank back on, put a bit of gas in I was gonna fire it up but remembered the battery wasn't connected, so I hook it up, walk around to turn the fuel line on, I look down and there's gas drops on the ground. Gas was dripping through the pin holes that I didn't know we're there, and bubbled up the paint all around it in two spots. So I drained the gas out and took the tank back off. Apparently I didn't get ALL of the gas, because after having the tank turned over to sand and repraint and finish those spots, a bit of gas leaked out of the cap and caused a huge messed up spot around the filler.

I'm getting annoyed with this tank, I've been looking for replacements. I've only seen one that's in decent shape and it's over $150+ shipping, which I suppose isn't terrible but I'd rather go cheaper, seeing that I already spent so much time and a bit of money on primer, paint, sand paper, bondo, and other misc stuff to get it refinished.

Is that the average price for a tank?
What other tanks will fit without ridiculous modification?

I think I read somewhere that a honda cb750 tank fits with minor work?

 

For now I'm just gonna slop paint it, I don't really care about looks at this point. Maybe I'll even sticker bomb it. Just until I find a replacement. It holds gas now, I jb welded the pin holes. So for now I don't care as long as I can ride before the seasons over

 

that's the spirit !

 

Ok so I ordered new exhaust head gaskets, and tried to install but on of the flange nuts is toast. Stripped and the threads are mush.

Checked xj4ever and it's only like 3.×× for one nut, but it's like 5.50 to ship it. I can ship like 5lbs in a priority usps box for that price. You can put a nut inside an envelope and ship for like .50 ... so I'm looking for alternatives.

Does anyone know the thread pattern or specific size so I can try to find a nut at a hardware store?

 

Just bring one of the good nuts to the hardware store and they'll match it for you. Ace Hardware, if you have them nearby, is a good source for metric hardware. Much better than the big box stores.

 

BTW, I skimmed this thread but couldn't tell whether you had solved the original problem. A common issue on these bikes is that the plug where the regulator/rectifier connects to the alternator overheats, due to bad connections on one its four terminals. The obvious symptom is a melted/burned connector, but the real cause is oxidation of the terminals in the connector. Eventually the connection goes from bad to none, and you're no-longer getting full, or smooth, power from the alternator. So, a first thing to check would be this connection to see whether the terminals need to be cleaned up or replaced.

A second common issue is that the alternator brushes are just worn out... I don't think that usually gives the symptoms you're seeing, though.

A bad regulator/rectifier can also result in charging issues. I don't get the impression that these fail that often, though.

 

Hey yea it was a real simple problem... the battery -- im a noob -- but yeah the battery wouldn't hold a charge at all. I got a new one and leave it on the charge. Bike still isn't road worthy so it won't be getting charged by riding it.

I wish I could change the title of this thread, my original question was electrical but now it's just turned into my "build" thread

 

6 x 1 for those nuts.

 

Everything is back on the back, I go to fire it up, it starts and runs for a second then dies.

I figured it was because there was no fuel in the system except for that bit in the carbs. So I put petcock on pri, hit the starter and nothing. Put petcock back on on/run whatever, nothing.

I have an in line fuel filter and I can see its dry, there is no fuel getting to it.

If I put it on pri and like shake the bike back and forth while looking at the fuel filter I can see it drip drip into the filter. Not sure what's happening, I opened the drain screws on the carbs and fuel came out.

I have no idea why it won't start. If I stay on the starter for a while and give it some throttle, it will sputter and sometimes start for a second, then die.

Any idea what to check?

EDIT: my petcock was good, I opened it up and checked the gaskets and such when it was off the tank. And the bike started a few days ago before I changed the oil

 

No fuel flowing on Prime kind of means a bad vent in the gas cap or a major blockage in the petcock.

You can verify whether lack of fuel is the issue by spraying starting fluid or propane (from an unlit torch) into the airbox. You should be able to start and run for a few seconds off of these.

On the other hand, it could be flooded or some other fuel or ignition problem, and fuel might not be flowing because the floats, needles, and seats are working as they should and cutting off fuel flow from the tank when the bowls are full.

 

Can't be a blockage unless something somehow got inside it after I mounted it back on. I cleaned it and checked the gaskets. I don't have starting fluid or propane so I guess that's out of the question.

Really starting to get aggravated with this thing, if it's not one thing it's another thing. I'll never get to ride before the seasons over

 

Dumb question...are you using the choke?

Gary H.

 

Yea I have the choke all the way open, it's the only way I've ever been able to start the bike.

I finally got it to start and stay running, I had only put about a gallon of fuel in it. So I got some more and she started up and ran. But still seems like a fuel shortage as she stalls out after 2 or 3 min, if I use the choke about halfway she'll stay running, if I use it all the way she revs over 2k, and if I use less than half she dies. But she stalls regardless about 2 min of running.

And also, I still have an exhaust leak from the headers, I replaced the gaskets and they didn't seal worth shit. So I doubled up the gaskets as I've read that with aftermarket exhausts sometimes you need to. And it's still leaking from 2 of the pipes. I have the bolts f***in wrenched down tight as tits to make sure I wouldn't get a leak. And what do you know, a leak.

 

How much fuel did you put in the tank.
Cuz the bottom third is reserve

 

Get copper exhaust gaskets from Len and don't over torque them so as not to snap a header bolt.

Gary H.

 

I had originally put 1gallon in, but then I put another one in and it started running. But now will only run with choke about halfway, at about 1.2k rpm. Didn't have this problem before, once it would warm up I could shut off the choke and it would idle about 1.2k if I remember correctly. It dies as soon as I shut off the choke, unless I keep it going with revs.

 

I didn't torque enough to snap a bolt, but everything is definitely seated correctly. I just don't see how I could have a leak. The little shit gaskets that the PO used were the same as the ones I got, and there was only 1. And it didn't leak before I removed the exhaust to refinish it. But after I replace it, with new gasket it leaks. So I doubled them up and it still leaks. Stuff that I shouldn't be having issues with, are giving me real headaches.

 

If the fuel level is too low, it is not going to start or if it does, it will sputter and die. And, your clear filter might have a bubble, but gas should flow freely if the bowls are emptied.

Put it on prime and do a wet check of the carb fuel level while on the bike to verify you have sufficient fuel for the bike to start and run.

Not sure about the pipes and the exhaust leak, but just make sure any other mounts are loose and the pipes are somewhat floating when you tighten the nuts at the header. Any kind of bind here would not let the pipes seat all the way into the exhaust port.

 

try taking out the inline filter and put it on prime, gas should squirt out. put the filter back on the line but not to the carbs. gas still squirt? good now connect the line without the filter (somehow).
when the line is full of air, the air gets trapped by the filter, it can't go up. so the gas has to get past the air bubble and can't flow fast enough(you run out of gas with a full tank).
once the line is full pinch the lines and put the filter back(small bubbles will work themselves out)

 

loosen the exhaust pipes on the bottom and loosen the collars. now shake and wiggle the pipes as you tighten the collars untill they don't move anymore and only tighten them to 7.4 ft/lbs (not very tight). you'll hate yourself if you snap a stud.
are those pipes marked somehow to identify 1,2,3,4 ?

 

Can we see a pic of the exhaust gasket? You shouldn't need two gaskets to get a seal. And 7.4 ft/lbs is about 1/2 a turn past hand snug. Like polock stated...not very tight at all.

Gary H.

 

They are not marked, but why would the have to be? The exhaust can only go on one way?

 

Ill take a pic when I get home, but I didn't think I needed two, then I read that sometimes two are needed with aftermarket exhausts. So I tried it. I had them snug, then a little tighter, then I was getting leaks so I tightened a bit more. Not worried about snapping a stud cuz theyre not THAT tight. I suppose anything can happen tho, clearly.

The exhaust pipes are matched to correct holes because I didn't seperate them, I removed the exhaust as one unit, Im not even sure of I can seperate these pipes, I think it's a mac 4-1 exhaust.

 

I'll take the exhaust off tomorrow and retry it, although I don't know of anything in the process I could change.

Remove header nuts, remove the mount (only one because it's aftermarket exhaust), replaced gaskets, match up pipes/collars with the studs, hold them close to the head and hand turn the nuts snug then with the wrench, then the mount (by the passenger peg).

Anything I should change in this process?

 

Oh ! Mac 4/1, first take that big heavy muffler off the pipes. put the pipes in the head. get in a position where you can raise and lower the collector end with your foot and feel the pipes in the head, you should be able to tell when the pipe sets square in the head. snug up the nuts and try shaking each pipe left/right. hold the collector that height. if the collector end is sagging down the collars can't pull the pipes square into the head, you have to hold it with your foot.
now do the 7.4 ft/lbs and put the muffler on so it's not pushing the collector up or down.
support the collector as you wiggle the muffler. if you jam the pipes around too much you'll smash the gaskets.

 

I'll take them apart and reinstall this way tomorrow. Thanks.

Also, not sure how I just noticed this today, my front forks/shocks seem really soft. I can hold the front brake and push forward and they drop significantly. I feel like if i were riding it and used the front brake hard it would probably bottom out...They're THAT soft. What should I be checking and or rebuilding on these, are they adjustable in anyway and maybe they're set too soft? Or are they just too old, bike has 19k miles.

 

At 19,000 miles the forks are due for a change of oil at the very least.
By soft, what are you comparing to? Damper rod forks will exibit more dive than a cartridge fork.

 

Not that I've been on many bikes, but my dad's custom iron horse, harley, concourse, and friends dirt bikes (they're pretty soft, like easy to push down) but the others were a lot stiffer than this. I know they're all bigger bikes, but still feels a bit too soft. I can really push the front end down.

 

Alright I have another question:

What would cause the bike to stall after riding it for a mile or less?

I got the bike to stay running, turned out I just needed more gas in the tank. It was on run, but I had only about 1 gal in the tank. I added another gallon and it stayed running with the petcock on run/on.

Started her up this afternoon, warmed up, choke off all the way, idles about 1.1-1.2k not sure if that's ideal but it doesn't stall at idle.

Went down the road a bit, took a cut through street to turn around and it died just after the turn. Started it back up and took off, just before turning onto my street she died again. Couldn't get her started so I pushed her until I got about 3 houses away and tried push starting or whatever it's called, dumped in 2nd and it started and I got in my driveway before she died again.

Not sure what the issue could be? I went for a quick ride the other day, just to make sure it would stay running and it was fine. I put 1.5miles on it after I put 2 gallons in, so I'm assuming it's getting enough fuel to keep the petcock on run?

I didn't think of putting it on reserve when it died because I new I had gas.

Could it be that simple? Or a bad alternator? Voltage seemed fine it was a hair under 12 when I parked, and I could get it started even after it died the first time.

 

thats how the choke works it gets the motor started and as it warms up it increases in rpm and you staet to feather it back to off. i go about 130 miles before switching to reserve which is about 2.4 gallons with 1 gallon in the tank you will have to run on reserve. if it seems to run out of gas check the petcock filter make sure it is clean. this was a problem another poster had dirty petcock filter. try setting your bolts to proper torque. instead as tight as tits.
tighten each nut a few turns at a time moving from pipe to pipe until you get them all toqured down. torque equaly not seperatly

1.2k rpm is the spec for idle.

stalling at 1 mile could be the gas vent is plugged link on how to clean and rebuild cap
http://www.xj4ever.com/gas cap.pdf

test your voltage when you get the bike running at 2k rpm should be 14 volts
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/
For all XJ-series models, the maximum available charging output VOLTAGE should be as follows (all values are approximate):
* approximately 500-2000 rpms: 1.8 volts gradually increasing to 14.2 volts
* 2000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts


if you want a factory service manual start a conversation with me , free, it will be on cd,
you need one!

 

Ok it's official I need a new tank. The pin holes that I sealed with jb weld are fine, but apparently there's more than just those few that I found. Because the bottomof the left side has paint bubbling and I peeled one bubble back and its wet with fuel.

And also I think my petcock is bad, (possibly stuck float, not sure how to tell which caused it?) even tho I checked the gaskets when I had it apart. Because the bike has been sitting for 5-6 days and I have fuel/oil mix on the bottom of the carbs, that metal tray thats just below the drain screws, it's like pooled up on there, and also I felt the bottom of the air box seal and it's wet with the same mixture.

I just changed the oil too, so that's super cool. Now I have to do it again. Another $25-30 down the shit shoot before I even ride it.


So if anyone sees a tank for sale please let me know, I only found 1 on ebay and it's junk.

 

Is the petcock stock? If the petcock has failed it's more likely the diaphragm is not sealing allowing fuel to flow when it shouldn't. If you remove the airbox boots and turn the petcock to prime the leaking fuel from the carb throat will tell you which carb valve does not seal.

Gary H.

 

And, you can test the petcock with a Mity-Vac...

1. Disconnect the fuel line from the petcock and run a fuel line from its nipple to a jar or somesuch
2. Disconnect the vacuum line from the petcock and hook up a line from the Mity-Vac
3. When set to On or Reserve, applying a bit of vacuum with the Mity-Vac should start fuel flowing, and releasing the vacuum should stop it pretty quickly. You should not see any fuel getting sucked into the vacuum line.
(4.) You can actually just suck on a test vacuum line by mouth if you don't have a Mity-Vac... but, if you don't have a Mity-Vac, this a good excuse to go buy one... they're not expensive and many auto parts stores stock them... and it will keep you from tasting gasoline if you have a leak on the vacuum side!

 

I'll check the petcock tomorrow, probably end up ordering a rebuild kit, if I can't find a tank soon. Only way to salvage this would be resealing it with por15 or similar, but it was already used before and it currently peeling in large chunks. So I don't really feel like going that route.

Does anyone know of any other make/model tanks that fit? I don't want a maxim tank, not the right look for my bike.

Old honda cb tanks look similar but not sure of the mounting situation they have.

Has anyone used a different tank, I can't find anything other vids on youtube and they don't say what tanks were used.

Thanks in advance everyone