82 xj650 maxim starts, revs up to 3-4k then dies.

I've cleaned the carbs had them torn down at least 6 times. I had to use starter fluid several times to get it to the point where it would stay running long enough to warm up and sync the carbs as well as adjust the air fuel mixture screws. It was running great. Once I let it cool back down I choke it all the way and try to start it back up and same thing it revs up to 3-4k then dies out and won't start without starting fluid. Please help....

 

We need to know more.
Did the bike run (and run well) before you tore the carbs down 6 times?
Did you clean them like this? http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/in-the-church-of-clean.14692/
Did you replace the tired and worn out components when you rebuilt your carbs?
Did you wet set your floats?
Bench synched as a well as running synch?
Did you use a Colortune plug for air/fuel mixture?
Was the bike idling at 1050 RPM's?

 

The bike didn't run at all when I got it. I've replaced the needle valve and seats, pilot & main jets. I thoroughly cleaned the carbs. They weren't gunned up to begin with just some residue. I did not wet set the floats. I made a float gauge and set them to 17mm. Just a running sync. I used a colortune plug the first time I set the air fuel mixture but this was before the running sync and then after I had them synced I did the stubble set, it seemed to make it run better. Also it was idling right around 1050. It also has new intake boots. I should also mention that the coils were cracked and losing spark. I cleaned the cracks and filled them with rtv.

 

Wet setting the floats is the only way to be sure the levels are correct. Bench sync gets you very close to sync. Carb shaft seals and mixture screw orings are important.
Lastly if your coils are cracked and were shorting out you better ohm them out. If they are out of spec get rid of them before they knock your TCI out.
Are your valves in spec? That is important as anything else. If your valves are tight that screws up the sync and it will never run right. If your enrichment circuits are correct and the float levels are right there is no reason that bike won't start on its own. Starting fluid tells me something is way off and not allowing fuel in when you move that choke lever over. You have to check the float bowl enrichment jets and make sure they are clean. Chacal has the proper drill bit for cleaning those jets if need be.

 

I checked the valve clearance and they we're spot on. Which are the float bowl enrichment jets? Are they the tiny brass tube in the float bowl? I will wet set the floats next. Thanks for the responses. I've read so many posts on here about carbs...I've been playing with it on and off since March and am getting frusterated. I've also been considering dynacoils. If I leave the tics eliminator tool in will I have to rejet the carbs? Thanks again.

 

The brass tubes are the passageways for the enrichment feed. The jets are in the bowls.

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-secret-life-of-carburetors.14751/

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/in-the-church-of-clean.14692/

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-information-overload-hour.27544/


Read them. Do all of the things.

 

You see those little brass tubes sticking out of the carb bodies. They go into a well in the float bowls. At the bottom of those wells is where the enrichment jet reside. They plug up with dried gas and brown goo that gas turns into as time goes on. The brown goo gets hard and is tough to dissolve. The little tiny jets are brass and they turn green and corrode shut also. Clean with a small wire and blow carb cleaner through from both ways. One more thing to check on those brass tubes is a small hole at the top by the carb body. Those holes need to be clean also.

 

They are a pain of they are clogged had to cook one with a torch last week it was so bad on Impulser91's Maxim. Just enough heat to bubble carb cleaner then cool and repeat.

 

I use a welding touch tip cleaner set. Heating them up works and sometimes gets the drain screws to let go also. The drain screws need to work so you can wet set the floats anyway so that's a plus. I ordered the drill bit from Chacal to really get the jets clean to the right size. Last two sets of carbs I did worked great.

 

Thanks for all of the responses. I did overlook the starting jets but am now aware of their location. They don't look removable is this right? Where do I go to order the drill bit as well as the throttle or carb shaft seals? You guys are awesome and I definitely appreciate all of your feed back!

 

Look at the top of the screen. XJForever. Or PM Chacal.

 

Actually its www.info@xj4ever.com or start a conversation with chacal, he has everything you need and then some. Super fast shipping and I have never had a problem he couldn't help me with.

Those jets in the fuel bowls are not removable. Once you clean them out with the drill bit then flush lots of carb cleaner through. Then blow out with compressed air a few times to make sure you got all the crud out of there.

Chacal also has Allen head drain screws you can get. The secret is never to leave fuel sit in those carbs if you are not using the bike. If it is going to sit for any length of time drain those carbs. The gas is so shitty these days it goes bad in no time. I have a t handle Allen wrench and a hose to drain my carbs.

 

Don't forget to wear safety glasses when spraying carb cleaner and blowing compressed air in the carbs. This stuff is not eyeball friendly.