New to this site and to DIY Mechanics

My old filter assembly (cover, bolt, washers, filter, old oil and all) is on its way to her now. She's got nothing to lose, so long as she doesn't damage the threads as she removes the original assembly.

 

Cool, man. Should be ok, assuming its been swimming in oil .

 

Yup. It got briefly drained this April when I made the spin-on conversion video, then promptly moved to a box in the garage.

 

I think you'll find out that it is a 1982 model, YICS engine, side cover badges, bigger tail-light, etc. all looks like a 1982 or '83 model. Wonder if it has a functioning tachometer, the non-yics and yics tacho's are different (mechanical vs. electrical).

Shockney, if it's a 1981 model the serial number and engine number begins with "4H7" and if it's a 1982-83 model the code will be "5N8"....

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/tech-topic-model-id-and-vins.14577/

 

I meant her's.......

 

Ah, right. Sounds like at least something resembling oil has been in there. Fingers crossed.

 

Okay I got the bolt off I used a torch but I'm still going to take l BW's kit. I'm at work right now but when I get home I'll compare the serial numbers on the title it says there's an odometer discrepancy but it does have a 1981 on the title originally the owner told me it was in 83 so I wonder if he gave me the wrong title the vin numbers the same on the title as it is on the frame for the 81 but I'll dig deeper just to make sure

 

Typos happen. If the frame and engine nmbers match then you have a typo on the title. I can't speak for Ohio, but in Kansas that's pretty easy to get fixed.

 

In NY it takes an act of God and congress to get ANYTHING changed on a title. They'd probably have the police verify THAT, too. Here, it's easier/better to ignore the typo.

Check the build date in the vin sticker on the headtube, too.

 

Headtube?

 

front of the frame where the front end bolts through the frame there should be a white sticker there or an engraved nu vin number

link to a xj550 photo head tube
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/attachments/dsc_0637-jpg.18229/

 

Thank you

 

Officially it is an 82 vin matches the number by the oil spout but not the number on the headtube

 

When I got home from work I tried wiring my turn signals on previous owner f***ed up the wiring had I guess. Well long story short my bike won't start now. Could I have trained my battery having it on for 20 to 30 minutes playing with wires?

 

Headtube is the neck on the bike where the fork pivots on. There should be a white sticker from Yamaha on the left side as you sit on the bike with the build date & serial number, the frame number is stamped on the right side. These numbers should be the same as the number stamped into the engine. If you have a numbers matching bike. The most important is the frame and title should be the same, the engine could have been swapped along the way if something happened to it which should be no big deal.

 

+1

Numbers at 3 places:

1. Title
2. Headtube
3. Engine

What numbers don't match? Most important is that the headtube and the title are the same. If those don't match, you've got trouble on your hands. If engine and headtube are different, you just need to be aware of what engine you currently have--along with appropriate changes as needed.

You may have drained it.... Battery needs to be good and strong to fire up. A weak battery will still turn the engine, though, but won't fire up.
Dave

 

Also keep in mind that the numbers on the engine won't be a complete match; it's a subset, a "shorty" VIN. For example, if my VIN were "BaldWonder," then the engine might have "ald-onder" on it.

 

Youre right. But at least the series of numbers on the engine will will match the end of serial # on the tag if its the original engine

 

For just 20-30 minutes... maybe. It might have enough juice to try to start, but not enough to get anywhere close. Someone needs a voltmeter! Get on Harbor Freight's mailing list, stat. They have multimeters as "free gifts" all the time. I don't recall how much you have to spend to validate the free gift, though.

 

True dat. And I'm realizing now that she said the engine matched the title, ergo she must've figured that out already. Oh well.

 

Odd to see it directly on the front of the headpipe, typically they are on the left side ("left" while you are sitting on the bike, facing forward; "right in the above image).

 

Doesn't match headtube at all just the engine the number by the oil spout is an exact match to the title not shortend. I guessing this is a frankenbike

 

Well I still love her anyway. I took my battery to get charged it wouldnt do anything last night so I'm pretty concerned I hope I didn't short something out if I did I for sure don't know enough to wire it up and mess with the ears next behind the light

 

So, you have a problem. You may be able to get registered somewhere, but most states won't register this. Good thing you're not in NY-- you'd never get it registered. Tell them "but the title matches the engine", they'll tell you "so what".

Simply, if your title does not match the headtube, you don't have the right title for the bike. The headtube IS the bike. Just like the firing assembly IS the gun.

I wish you luck with this!! I would not put ANY more work, parts, etc... Into your bike til you have a title that matches the bike.

There are options out there, but any of then are a hassle, or will take inordinate amounts of time and patience ( and often don't work anyway), or shady, or downright illegal if you get right down to it.

Dave

 

Just to clarify, regarding VIN and engine numbers, here is where they do/can appear:

1) upper engine case, just above the clutch cover, on a flat "ribbed" pad. This is always the "shorty" VIN, for example 4H7-100123 (it's in the format {MODEL ID CODE - BIKE SERIAL NUMBER})

IF the engine is the original one for the bike, then this shorty VIN number will exactly match:

2) the "shorty" VIN that is STAMPED (not a decal, but actually stamped) into the right side of the steering bearing headpipe (tube, etc.). Even if a printed DECAL with the long full VIN is on the left side of the headpipe, the "shorty" VIN is also stamped on the right side of the headpipe. NOTE: some later model (typically 1983-later) had the FULL 17-position VIN stamped into the right side of the headpipe, and also used the printed DECAL on the left side of the headpipe. As explained in the linked VIN article previously, the shorty VIN (on the engine case) can be easily translated to the long full VIN on the headpipe DECAL, if present (and vice-versa: the long VIN can easily be translated to a shorty VIN).

3) The long full VIN might appear on a variety of printed papers, such as titles, insurance papers, bills of sale, gerbil registration forms, tax returns, dental records, etc. etc. THOSE ARE ALWAYS SUSPECT because:

a) they are easy to forge
b) they are filled out by humans (or printed by a computer which had the data inputted by a human) and humans make errors.


THUS:
- the only numbers of real value are those stamped on the engine case and stamped into the frame. The number printed onto the decal that is affixed, on some models, on the left side of the headpipe is usually correct (it was printed by Yamaha, and they tend to be more conscientious about such things than DMV workers, insurance clerks, and previous owners quickly scribbling out a bill-of-sale while crashing from a 3-day drug-haze).

Although it is possible (I've never seen nor heard of it happening, though) that Yamaha may have mis-stamped or mis-coded an engine, frame headpipe stamping, or frame headpipe decal, the chances are quite nil.

 

I'm assuming (gasp!!) that meant the number on the title/engine doesn't match the number stamped into the headtube in any way, shape, form....
Therefore,as far as NY would be concerned, NY would see it as a title for some other bike, and not the title for THIS bike.....

 

Let's also clarify further: the VIN on the title should be 17 characters long. It sounds like you have a botched title listing the shorty version of the VIN that someone copied off the engine after doing a frame swap.

Is the title in your name fully, or has it merely been signed over to you, and the PO is still listed? Actually, scratch that. It probably doesn't matter.

I would look up the record for the VIN stamped on the head tube to verify it hasn't been reported stolen, etc. Assuming it's clear, and you have a bill of sale, you could register it in VT for a year, then use the registration to claim a title reissue in Ohio.

 

Ok after some hard looking I realized the shortly vin is on the headtubeand the actual vin is on the engine there are parts of each the head tube and the engine that match my VIN number both combined make the entire VIN number so I think I'm ok the last 6 numbers on the head tube match the end of my VIN number and the numbers on my engine match my vin perfect. Also I charge the battery and its fine the rats nest of wires that is behind the light is draining out my battery. I got all the parts 4 my brakes and I'm having trouble getting the piston back in the caliper and now I think I jammed it

 

I know this is likely a hindsight case, but you'll want to lube the rubber ring and the piston with brake fluid prior to assembly, and make sure either the bleeder valve is open or the brake line isn't connected. Using a C-clamp will help get it back into position better than a hammer, since it applies pressure slowly.

 

Glad to hear your numbers are matching. To many times have we heard the title doesnt match the nubmers on the frame. The cops will look at your licence and run the plate and if the DMV says you are the owner the cops will just give you

a ticket or warning. If something does not look right they might investagate and find the numbers are not right and the bike goes to the impound lot. If you don't have the right title all your hard work and parts goes off to auction and you can bid on it but

you will be buying it for parts because the state will not issue a title or licence plates at least here in my state.

In any case your bike looks nice and glad to help any way we can.

MN

 

Didn't have the bleeder open I did lube the parts and I c clamped it in I'll open the bleeder I only got the piston part way in and it won't come out hopefully opening the bleeder and continuing to push with a c clamp will get it placed properly

Vin is fine

 

I think I'm going to need a new caliper. I jammed that piston in good. It got caught on the seal. I'm taking it to a local bike shop to try to get it out I couldn't pump it out with fluid soooooo...

 

Was there some corrosion around the dust seal area?
Ever time I have stuck pistons that area swells up with that white
Fuzz. A new one might be a good thing.

 

I cleaned it really well got in the books bought a rebuild kit and new piston put everything in lubed it with fluid pushers piston down it got stuck halfway so I tried to use a c clamp to even it out. I think it caught on the seal. I'm pretty broke so I don't want to buy a new one but this isnt good. Tried pushing it out with fluid not working so much. So like I said I'll see if a more mechanicly inclined person can help me out

 

That's good, you are learning how not to do things . . . . still a learning experience.

Unfortunate with your budget restraints it kinda sucks.

But cross your fingers, it is possible that everything is still usable. I got lucky last time I rebuilt mine, the piston was starting to cock (using a hand clamp) - gave it a little tap with the hammer on the high side and it popped in nicely.

Good luck!

 

When I rebuild a caliper the thing I like to do is leave the seals out and see how the piston fits the hole. If it slides in and out nicely then I'll put the seals in and gently push the piston in. Keep in mind it needs to go in straight. If it gets crooked then it will jam which sounds like what you have there. Sometimes warming the caliper body up a little will expand the aluminum enough to get it to move. Don't heat it up enough to burn the paint though.

 

I just had a thought, could you use a plumbers strap wrench to get on the piston and turn it? Any hardware store would have one, then the question is is there enough piston sticking out to get ahold of it?

 

1. Put a solid bolt in the brakeline hole
2. open the bleeder a bit
3. Push a grease gun onto the bleeder
4. use the grease gun to push the piston back out
5. Clean and degrease
6.lube the seal, bore, and piston with brakefluid Start over with the piston and c clamp

 

What he said, but before step one, find someone with a grease gun.

 

Yes and yes

 

Ok thanks everyone no way I could do this without advice from yall

 

Alright all is well. The piston bit into the seal so I had to order a new seal but after I get that I'll get the brakeline on and it'll be pretty good to go. The front signals still don't work so I'm not sure what to do there but I need transportation right now. so I'll just stick to day riding and hand signals until I can afford to rewire her. I think It's all coming to a brief close. Like I said before I do have some stuff for sale we can talk about price if anyone is interested I have a windshield some yamaha highway pegs and a luggage rack.

 

Have you done any troubleshooting? Got a multimeter or can you borrow one? If the sockets and connections are clean and correctly located and the bulbs are good you can test from the fuse box, through the relay (brown box under seat), through the connector in the bucket to the switch. Let us know.

Gary H.

 

Is it running while you're checking blinkers? The 650's really like to be a bit above idle speed for the blinkers to blink. And, if the bike is not running, sometimes only one may blink.... Or none.

 

She may not have the right wattage bulbs in there. The bulbs I beleive need to be 27 watts for the blinkers to work right. Somewhere here there is a right up on that and switching to LED lights and adding resistors to make things work right.

 

All true but I've only had one instance (low battery) when the blinkers didn't blink until i started my bike.

Gary H.

 

Then maybe i kept my idle a little lower than yours...

 

+1. Makes sense.

Gary H.

 

Just looked it up it is 27 Watt Bulbs. If you pull them out if they are original with a nickel or non brass base It says the wattage on them.
If they don't blink at idle thats because the alternator is not putting out enough power to run the flasher. Check your voltage at idle and you may have to
bump it up to a little over 1050 to get them to blink.