Bad float needles?

So, I got the float settings bang on, but then I'll go away for a while and I'll come back and they're overflowing.

I noticed that 1 or 2 of the floats looks a little crumbly. The needles themselves (rubber tipped kind) look ok, but I guess they could be a little hardened, it's hard to say.

Does this symptom mean I need new float needles and seats? It seems weird that it would be ok for a few minutes, but overflow over an hour span. Seems like a leak to me. Am I on the right track?

 

I would think that you need new needles and seats. It could be that the seal is almost good but there is still a very slow leak that takes quite a while for it to noticeably increase. Have you determined which carbs are overflowing? Are all of them overflowing? You should check that.

 

I recently had a needle with a weak spring acting like that. Looked ok at first and then the carb got flooded overnight.

 

I got the solid brass needles from Chacal and have had no problems with them. I replaced all 4.

 

It appears that #2 and #3 are the culprits, though it's possible they're all doing it. Thanks for the advice guys, looks like new needles and seats is my best bet.

 

All of the carbs are connected so it could look like all of them are leaking. Needles without springs (as mentioned by tabaka45) will not typically have this problem unless the brass wares down. Just a note, with new needles and seats, you will have to adjust the float level. Differences between stock and aftermarket needles and seats can be over 1 mm and throw off your float levels.

 

+1 on replacing all 4 with solid brass needles...if Chacal has them for your 700....

 

Carbs are connected, yes, but each one has its own float, so there is no need to change all seats and needles if one is sure that only two of them actually leak. CHecking individual fuel level through the bowl drain makes it simple to know exactly which one is the problem, right? Of course if one suspects a slow leak it is a good idea to check it once and then 12 or 24 hours later.

 

So, I have made sure to check the floats for problems. No problems found. The float needles don't look bad, but I suspect they have rubber that is stiff or in some way not sealing completely. They fill and they very slowly continue to fill over a few hours.

Plan is still new needles. Quebecois, you're advocating just 2 new needles? I'm pretty sure that only two are having this problem. On the other hand some advise doing all 4 for the sake of completeness. Are people liking the all-brass needles better than the rubber tipped ones? Is there no advantage to the rubber?

 

Replace all if you can (needles and seats). This way you have a clean slate and going forward, all parts are the same (and new) and if other leaking problems occur, you can confidently rule them out as a part of the problem.If you don't, you'll replace the bad one, then a few months down the line, another one can give you a problem... Then it's back to the carbs again...

Still, I can't help but think that your petcock is not doing it's job if fuel is continuing to flow to the potential bad needle(s). Rebuild this if you haven't already.

As for rubber vs. brass, I replaced with rubber because rubber was in there when I opened my carbs up. Success has been seen with both. Whatever you decide, I highly, highly recommend that you buy your replacement parts from Chacal. This is absolutely one of those DON'T SKIMP times where a perfect fit is necessary. There's TONS of cheap "carb rebuild" kits out there on the Internet... They are doo doo.

 

doo doo! LOL. haven't heard that one in a long time. But appropriate in this case. Chacal is the man for the seats and needles.

 

Oh yes, Chacal and I go way back

The petcock has been rebuilt. This testing is sans fuel tank, since I'm trying to get the carbs perfect before putting them back on the bike.

Good point on the replace everything if you can. Sometimes I need to hear someone else say it before I think "no half-measures..."

 

I went with brass, ethanol in the B.S. they sell today is not good over time.

 

I have used several float needle/seat combos off ebay. The last set had float needles that were all stainless steel
without rubber tips ( garbage ) The old float needles were old but undamaged so,I soaked the metal parts
but left the rubber tips out of the carb cleaner. Then laid all the float needles out to dry on a paper towel.
For the seats, I cut one end off a "Q" tip and chucked it into my cordless drill, dipping the other end in polishing
compound. I then polished the seats to a high shine and cleaned them with a clean "Q" tip. I also polished
the rubber tips with the compound, "Q" tip and cordless and cleaned them off. the carbs worked OK after
reassembly. Try this out, it may save you the money you would have spent on new needles and seats.

 

Xj4ever sells both types...good quality parts prompt service...and he stands by his parts.

 

Only if you don't ride much, and don't prep the bike for winter storage. 30 years of using E-10 and I've never had a carb problem because of it.

 

K-moe, can you provide a little more information on how you store the bike? I've heard a lot of different ideas. Thanks.

 

Sta-Bil Marine or similar gas treatment goes in the tank at the prescribed ratio for the last ride of the season. Float bowls get drained upon completion of that ride, and the drainings returned to the tank (waste not, want not).

Though not related to fuel, I also change the oil and filter to prevent acids from forming and etching the bearing journals. Since moving to a place where winter riding is possible, I also take advantage of the warm days and go for at least a 20 minute ride when the opportunity arises. What I do not do is start the engine periodically to "keep it in shape". That has the opposite effect.

Before I learned about Sta-Bil I just made sure to ride once a month no matter what.

 

Thanks for the details. I will use that method this Fall.

 

I forgot. I also use about 2 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in that last tank of fuel to help prevent corrosion from forming.