Help! Carb/overfuel issue???

+1.

Gary H.

 

Sorry guys!
Fixed now and should be viewable

 

Sounds like you're only firing on two at idle, and maybe three above idle. Do the headers get equally warm at startup?

 

If what k-moe stated is true you'll need to:

1. Make certain the plugs are the correct type and are properly gapped.

2. Ohm out the ht caps.

Hope this helps.

Gary H.

 

My Maxim-X sounded like that when running on three,

 

Thanks guys!

Well i brought a fusebox and new female spade terminals so will fit that tonight/tomorrow. Will also replace the connections to the coils as they are pretty crap. Then test the leads and check the plugs.
Wish me luck!

 

Yeah, it's missing..start with a known good plug on the cold cyl and see if you have combustion. Then go from there.

Start simple, and work your way up

 

Hey guys, have fitted the fusebox and new crimp terminals to the coils.
Starts and runs still so Thats good!

Sadly will need to move the fusebox forward 5mm as i didnt account for the seat touching the crimp connectors. Ten second fix tomorrow

The choke worked when i started today (eg not just on or off)

Not sure what could these are as there are no markings.
Will meter everything tomorrow and see what's what and let you know.

 

Pics before and after

 

Ok so after a night of too much booze ive recovered enough to play a tiny tad.

Re-adjusted new fusebox location as the spade terminals were obstructing the tool holder from sitting flush. Its now perfect!

Fired up the bike and found that the exhaust from l cylinder 3 (centre right side when seated on bike) stays dead cold. All other 3 cylinders are warm so hopefully this is the only problem!!!

Will ohm out plugs and check mr sparkplug tomorrow after work and post results/ask for more advice.

Thanks for reading and helping thus far guys!!!

 

Is the vacuum line to the petcock going to the #3 carb manifold? If so you might want to see if fuel is leaking through from the diaphragm. I have found these leaking and drowning out that cylinder.

 

Do you mean the petcock leaking fuel through the vacuum line?

 

Thanks mn-maxims.
How do i check this?

It didnt appear to leak when i had the tank off from either vacuum or fuel outlet line.

 

Just pull the vacuum line from the intake end and check for fuel. Because of the way the o-ring seals the petcock, the diaphram won't usually leak unless it's under vacuum.

 

Hmmm ok. Thanks k-moe.

Tomorrow night i think ill pull the vac line off and check as you mentioned.

THEN ill cap off the intake point, put the petcock to prime and fire the bike up and see if cylinder 3 runs correctly.

That should give a pretty clear answer right?

 

It should

 

Ok finally got round to checking petcock operation, seems fine.
Pulled n checked plugs, will need to adjust the gap on them i think, but dont think thatd the issue.
Next stop is metering coils and leads. Will try and squeeze that in after work tomorrow.

Also cant correct the ground wire mentioned earlier, because the POS PO snapped the bolt its supposed to locate with. Thats why hes attached it in a different spot and left it hanging. Will need a good "kiwi ingenuity" fix for this one i think... (ps im a a bew zealander living in australia)

 

Update. Was tinkering today.
Cyl 3 cold.
Swapped lead from cyl 2 onto cyl 3, no change.

Swapped cyl 3 plug to cyl 1, cyl 3 runs ok now and cyl 1 is cold.

Looks like part 1 of the problem is the spark plug!

Will aquire a new set and post again as i progress...

 

New plugs gapped and installed. Seems to run on four but dont tbink shes right.
Running too rich perhaps?

Thoughts?

 

Sounds like mine when it's not fully warmed up and I shut the enrichment off.
Does is clear up after riding for a few minutes?
Does it clear up if you bump the idle speed up a tad?
Do you have a Colortune with which to confirm the idle mixture?

 

If it's more than a little too rich, the new plugs themselves will certainly tell you. What do they look like now?

 

No colortune.
Trying to see if anyone in melbourne aus has one i can borrow.

Will need to pull the plugs on the other cylinders but i know number ones carbon fouling pretty good.

 

Ok so no colortune yet, but whenremoved:
plug number 1 is clean but wet with petrol - header is luke warm. Easy to touch
Plugs 2,3,4 are all covered in carbon - headers are all hot, about same temp using my calibrated hand haha.

 

Checked and confirmed theres soark on number one. Now thinking its the idle speed screw needing adjusted a lot lower, and the idle mix on all carbs needing increased. (Theyre all less than one turn from bottom)
Will begin rough adjustments tomorrow and see where this all leads...

 

Sounds to me like the idle mixture is plenty rich if you've got three soot-covered plugs. Why is #1 not firing, even though it has spark?

What's the elevation there? I'd guess close to sea level...

 

Shouldn't be that rich if mixture screws are less than one turn out, plugs can get fooled too if mixture is way too lean.

 

Yup, we are at sea level in melbourne. 0-100 meters is typical.

I think number one is firing intermittently or poorly. Not sure.

Im going to start by taking the tank off and noting down the positions of the carb idle mix screws, then wind them all to 2 1/2 turns.
Also going to wind the idle adjust back as i think its too high. Then try fire her up and see what she does.

If all ok then ill reclean the plugs and re-evaluate.

Hopefully i can borrow a colortune, but it looks like in going to have to buy one...

 

I'd suggest you clean the plugs before the next attempt, if not already done.

 

Oh, definately will clean the plugs, but not until ive checked and adjusted the idle adjust and the carb idle mix screws.

I recon the idle is set way too high, and the idle mix way too low.

We will see once ive popped the tank and had a propper look.

 

Okie dokie, so ive tinkered, backed the idle adjust off to zero and adjusted the idle mix screws to 2.5 turns. She ran better for a but, then died.

Adjusted to 1.5 turns idle mix, and she woukdnt fire over, then the battery gave out :-(

Not a sucessful day...

 

Broughy a ctek xs 0.8 chsrger today, $59.00 AUD
Seems quite impressive out of box, as long as she does her job of course!
Stay tuned all!!!

 

Charger works great, bike ran again, but dies as fuel is too ritch at 1.5 turns on idle mix screws.
Looks like im gunna hwve to pull the carbs...

Also what level should the floats be at when installed in the bike, level ground on the centre stand?
It appears too low from whats in my haynes manual...

Help appreciated

 

I'd be surprised 1.5 turn gives too rich of a mixture, it should be the opposite. MIxture screws do regulate both air and gasoline at the same time, so the more they are screwed in, less fuel mixture goes thru the tiny holes in the carb throat, giving a lean mixture.

 

Initial settings would be:

Floats- 17.5mm

Mixture screws - 2.5 turns out from soft-seat

But in not seeing anywhere where you actually done a running sync yet---

 

Well im gunna pull the carbs this weekend and set the float heights.
While in in there ill have a good look around. Perhaps the idle mix is ok but the air isnt?

Ill also check/adjust the carbs with a bench sync.
Then bsck together and see what she does.

Hogfiddles, wheres the 17.5mm measured from/to?
Also thanks guys

 

Next post, heres my rear wgeel which apparently locks up when tightened to 40 ftlb.
Does this look right? Is the thin washer on the lhs supposed to be there?

Thanks again all

 

Float height is measured from the body's mating surface ( do not measure from the top of the ridge).

Did you tighten the left side castle nut before tightening the pinch bolt? Pinch bolt is the last thing to tighten.

Is the long bushing/spacer inside the hub? If not, there is nothing to keep the wheel from pulling in too far

 

At least one thing looks wrong with your rear wheel: on the secn dpicture, it looks like it would be impossible to insert a pin through the hole in the axle. This suggests that your axle is not mounted properly.

 

The bushing needs to be there. You can also put a screwdriver in the hole at the right side end of the shaft.

Gary

 

Thanks guys. Ill investigate after i carb mys5rkf to death.
Nit sure whats going on in the rear wheel or how the mechsnic instslled it. Will ket you know asap

 

So carbs look fine. Everything clean and shiny and working correctly by my eye.
Ive done a bench sync for the carbs, checked float heights by measurement and all ok.
Will do a wet test tomorrow but hopefully all is well in carb land.

 

+1 on the carbs. As you know the rear wheel absolutely can't be incorrectly installed. Imo remove the rear wheel and do over. Any help you'll need is at this site.

Gary H.

 

I learned from my last experience with float height adjustments that even if your floats needles and seats look clean and the floats themselves are all carefully set at same height, it is fairly possible that one float leaks a bit and fuel level creeps up slowly.

So my advice would be: don't wet test only once. Keep your auxiliary fuel supply opened for at least 24 hours and then check your fuel levels again.

 

Ok so i got her all back together, fired her over and no improvment.
Still too rich at 2.5 turns on idle mix. runs better at 3/4 to 1.5 turns but does not want to idle.
Also cylinder 3 is dead cold. Confirmed ive got spark and just getting tired of her now...
Why has nobody made a bolt on efi kit yet lol