hi new to yamaha need some carb help

ok I did a benchtop on it and she's still running away I ordered a monometer from a friends tool shop should get it just after new years

 

I wouldn't. When you did the bench synch did you:
1. Set #1 to #2.
2. Set #4 to #3.
3. Set #2 to #3.
4. Adjust the knob at #3 for start up idle.
Is the mix screws set at 2.5 turns out from soft bottom?

Gary H.

 

I set them as the link above discribed http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-bench-synch-your-carbs.6366/

 

So what screws are the mix screws

 

They are tiny screws located in recessed cavities beside the ec (choke) plungers.

Gary H.

 

That may be covered by a brass plug.
If your carbs truly were at Church the mixture screws (spring, washer and o-ring) should have been removed.

 

Good call Stump. I was waiting to see if they are covered. If so, this might be the cause of the run-a-way idle.

Gary H.

 

there uncovered but 2 on the ends are seized up and green

 

there is also thick brass covered that look like that may have been drilled threw to uncover the screws as the hole are not centered

 

Photos please.

 

Those brass plugs that were drilled through need to be pulled out. Use an easy-out to pul them, or a reverse-thread drill bit to catch, and pull the out. Be careful--- either way, the mixture screw is just below the cap... Don't run in deep, or you'll mess up the top if the screws.

You CAN NOT pull the mixture screw out until the brass caps are removed.

You MUST pull the screws out in order to clean the bores and replace the o-rings.

 

I can't even get what's there to move in or out there bound up tight

 

I was able to use a cheap screwdriver. And pop what's left of the brass plugs out. The screws are still in tight.

 

Spray them with penetration oil and file or grind a old standard screwdriver to fit the slot in the head of the screws.

Gary H.

 

going to oil them and let it sit over night tomorrows a new year

 

Carb 1 and 4 I can't get the air mix screws loose

 

Kroil and careful application heat--- I use a micro-torch, and a lot a careful work. I've only ever had one rack that I couldn't remove the screws.... And I have NEVER had a rack, that had caps in, that I couldn't get the screws out. Just take it easy and don't let frustration get in the way.

Make sure you have the RIGHT SIZE screwdriver

Questions-- why do you have a visegrip on that tube?

Where is that tube coming from?

Why don't you just pull the rack out?

 

I'm assuming that tube is connected to an intake manifold and is for the petcock vacuum, in which case it needs to be thrown in the trash and replaced with a proper vacuum line.

 

the tube goes to the fuel pump on the tank I have it clamped off to stop the vacuum leak there iv had the rack out 100 times all ready I done have any Kriol amd I know it well or a torch to heat with I'm doing all this on my front door step

 

Not a fuel pump. It's a vacuum valve on the petock. Fuel is delivered to the varbs via gravity.

I recommend that you keep the carb rack out until you've got the idle screws out, the carbs thoroughly clean (including replacing any suspect rubber parts), the fuel levels set, and the throttle plates bench synchronized.

I'm not sure if these links hae been provided to you yet or not, but you have a project that needs time, patience, and thoroughness. We've all walked this road, and the lucky ones started here:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-information-overload-hour.27544/


Carb cleaning and setup in detail: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/in-the-church-of-clean.14692/

Why you need to be so thorough with the carbs: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-secret-life-of-carburetors.14751/

I hope that the above links help.

 

Sometimes frozen fasteners can be broken loose more easily if you try to tighten then JUST A LITTLE BIT to help break free the seizure, before attempting to loosen them.

 

Sounds like you'd better stop where you're at for a bit. Do some more reading so you actually know what parts are what, how they work, and how to service them, before continuing......lots of links have been given to you---

 

I've been reading and soaking everything up I have a set of manometers coming that should help as well but I need moving wheels asap the sooner the better I need to find a job before stuff gets turned off

 

In that case I recommend that you shelve the project, or sell it and get yourself something that does run. Public transportation is a hassle, but it will get you to interviews (and to work; did that myself for several years). A 30+ year old motorcycle is not going to provide reliable day-to-day transportation until everything has been gone through and fully addressed. I don't want to discourage you from getting your XJ running right, but you're in a tight spot, and fixing it now just might not be the best avenue to get out of it.

 

bah being unemployed with a broken foot I still have a few weeks to play with it and it was running when I got it I popped the carbs off to fix the overflowing and it hasn't run right since and since I have nothing but time till the dr takes this cast off I refuse to just sot here when my bike needs help new where can I find these mix screws I need 2 of them I'm breaking out the left handed tools so I can drill and pull these stuck ones out I'm no shade tree this is just the first bike with more then 2 carbs that's not fuel injected

 

50% ATF, 50% acetone. Soak them and let them sit. Basicly; follow Hogfiddles' advice on getting them to free up. Drilling out the mixture screws is a delicate operation, and one that I would not attempt without a really good drill press (preferably a milling machine) and a fixture.

 

OK plan b any one see a good doner set layin around they want to sell?

 

Understood but slow down. The given advice is from some of the most knowledgeable and skilled members here. Let them soak and do some of the other things that need to get done (there's plenty to do) to make it a solid runner.

Gary H.

 

Found what appears to be a solid rebuilt set on eBay got it for 225 with shipping I need to get back to work I cant take sitting home for hours on end I did the valve adjustments yesterday that sounds much healthier the timing chains in great ship the guy I go the bike from said the head and chain where rebuilt and replaced about 10k miles ago by a Yamaha dealer after he ad one snap on him and almost killed it by punching a hole in a piston he told me it had left a mark but no damage iv gtten a good many bikes from the man so I believe him

 

I used a #1 screw extractor on 2 mixture screws ,used a hand drill go shallow with the pilot hole
take a carful look at a screw you have out to see how much you drill


you could have a machine shop remove them cheaper than a set of carbs

 

so the newly rebuilt carbs showed up and went right on and balanced out like a champ

 

on the manometer i was pulling just over 100 in lbs i feel i might need a valve adjustment or possable rings im not sure what i should be pulling any ways it just seems week also what size colortune should i use?

 

14mm colortune.

Have you had it out for a few good runs at highway speeds? It may just be that you have sticky rings still. The vacuum reading is a bit low, but I wouldn't worry much until you have some miles on it. You might want to do a leakdown test after you've put a few miles on it.

 

Yeah,that may be covered by a brass plug.

 

Yea iv given a few miles on it and had to add a half a turn to the air screws to get it to run cooler in the tropical weather down here but now she's keeping at 2-3k rpm when she warms up and the idle screws backed out off the plate

 

Vacuum leak

 

+1.

Gary H.

 

+3.

You don't need to adjust the fuel/air mix because of tropical, or any other type of weather. You have a vacuum leak. Grab a can of carb cleaner and get to finding the leak. With the bike running selectively spray every rubber part and seal until you find the spot where the RPMs increase.

 

nope no vacuum leaks it was the choke not dropping all the way down to close the enrichment curcit ok now new question 6k rpms to do 70 mph in 5th seems like a lot to me or am i crazy and this motor can take it and than some i'm use to thumpers we red like around 6k rpms give or take

 

At 6k you just getting into the powerband. You're teasing your bike..... That's not nice. Open it up and let 'er scream at 7k, 8k, find 9k..... She'll scare the $#!t out of you, and beg you to give it more. You'll find out that there is so much in there...... You're just not used to hearing that, that's all. It took me along time to get used to NOT hearing the scream like when I got my Intruder 1500.

Think of it more like the scream of a jet-ski----- wind that sucker out!!!!!

Hit 75 in 5th gear, hang on tight... Down shift to 4th and hit it. NOOOOW SHE's gonna be a happy little bike. Grab it, twist it, ooooh yeah-----she'll respond to that quick.... Listen to her scream, begging for more.


YES, MattiThundrr, I'm still talking about the bike (, too)

 

+1 what he ^ said. Many of these bikes have never been past 5k rpms when we get them. Around 4.5k in 4th is for cruising. Everything after that is in 5th. First time you hit 8k you'll be holding on so tight you'll forget to start looking for cops. Warning: It's very addictive!

Gary H.

 

so new back tires going on this weekend the one i got nows a dry roted acciden waiting to happen who ires would you guyssugest for a bugted minded person and how does one go about removing the back tire from this bike? iv never down a shaft before or would it be better to let the bike shop do it?

 

Simple to remove wheel:

Pre-work--

put bike on center stand, and you may want to put the center stand on a board to give additional clearance

Remove license plate, if you don't, you'll find out why I suggest the board for extra clearance

Now-----

1. Remove cotter pin and castle nut and washer on left side of axle

2. Disconnect brake stay at bottom of brake cover

3. Loosen axle pinch bolt on right side

4. Remove brake rod adjuster and spring, rotate cover so you can unhook brake rod.

5. Pull the axle out, don't lose the spacer/washer AND don't lose the the spacer that is INSIDE. It's about 2.5" long, so you shouldn't miss it.

6.sitting next to the bike's right side, grab the rim and wiggle/pull til it pops off the splines

7. Roll it out from under the bike

8. Take rim to shop and have them change tire and balance it.

9. Reinstall in reverse order

10. Go ride

 

I put some Shinkos on my XV a couple of months ago. For cheap, they seem pretty good. Probably half the price of Dunlops or similar.

 

Mostly,you get what you pay for....
Shinkos are cheaper but they don't last as long--- dunlops are more expensive but last longer ( and stick to the road better), etc.....

 

Shinkos here too I really push my 550 through the corners. best price Dunlops were over 2x the price.
What you buy is really dependent on how you ride and your budget.
I look at it as ROI return on investment. new tires every 3 years with shinko and it still costs less than a set of dunlop.
its not like if I sold the bike dunlops would get me more money in the sale.
PO had dunlops and a kerker (now supertrap) exhaust if i replaced the exhaust and tires with the same brand it would cost more than the bike is worth.

if you plan on buying your tires online make sure the local shops will mount them for you.
I was rejected at the 3 shops in my area for internet tires. it was the mom and pop garage that i found that mounted/balanced them for me.

 

All my local shops would mount tires on wheels I brought in. Two are small shops, one is a big dealer. I went with the big dealer... a bit more money than one of the small shops, but they were open on Saturdays, and got them mounted and balanced in about an hour from when I dropped them off. IIRC, it cost me about $65 to mount and balance the pair.

Previous tires were Metzlers. Very nice, but a pair of new Shinkos is still much better than a pair of dried out and cracked Metzlers.

 

mom and pop was $20 per tire but price is determined on where you are

 

Agreed-- PRETTY much any new tire will be better than dried out, cracked, hardened ones...

Some shops will not mount tires that they don't personally sell you---- liability reasons.......