howto check float level of carb

Well I like pics. They are easier to understand worldwide

Was interested to check the float level. Put a piece of an antenna into the drain hole of the carb. Took it from an old radio. That fits pretty good. On that I put a flexible tube. Then you're done.

Open the drain bolt and see what happens. Your float level will be visible. You need to check it for each carb. You even can leave the antenna on the carb. We are thinking about making a nicer solution on a lathe. Guess that's for the harley ones. :lol:

I will make another pic which shows the whole setup live later.

 

Never done this before, might check it out over the weekend.

 

Just went through the manual for the details.

The fuel level should be 5mm below from the carb mixing chamber body edge. You need to check each carb.

Before you start make sure the engine is of well temperature. So let it run for a while. This is to obtain the correct fuel level. And place your bike on a level surface. Make sure the pet cock is "ON" or "RES".

In case the fuel level is incorrect you have a minor problem. You have to remove the carb. You need to check the fuel valves and the float assemblys for damage. If no damage can be found you may correct the fuel level by slightly bend the float arm tang. I hope you don't run into a loop!

 

great descriptive explanation ... thanks.

 

great photos ! Thanks!

 

My length of Vinyl Hose goes right into the Hole and stuffs in there nice.
Although the antenna piece was good thinking!

 

That loop shown in the picture and implied in the diagram will cause problems if it traps an air bubble up at the drain (Trust me, I've done it).

Solution is to get the hose filled and then lower it to take the reading on the side of the carb.

 

Right on Ramon!! Good Illistrations and ideas.

Thanks

 

I must say I am absolutly horrified of carbs.
Worse than a horror flick to me.
But this sounds like a job for me.
I assume the bike is on the center stand for this procedure
My haynes manual should prob show this as well?
Got to find that book one of these days
Thanks for the help ramon

 

Although it's fun to be adventurous, creative, and daring at times, wrenching on the bike is not one of those times......

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You are showing putting a tube into the bowl I thought the hose went on the stub sticking out of the center next to the screw. or does this depend
on what type of carbs you have?

 

There are No "Stubs" on some Float Bowls. Their is a small diameter cylinder that the hose inserts in to ... the fit is fluid tight.

Depends if you are adjusting Mikuni or Hitachi.

 

Does it have to be running? If so does it matter how well (as in no air box boots attached)? I adjusted my height last week with the engine off, my bike will run ok with the boots off and there is no way I will put those boots on unless the cars are staying on the bike (not like I can get them on anyways…).

 

No.
Not running.
Just stationary and level.

If you have a Float Level Ruler ... you can measure the Tang on any one that is correct and bring the others to the same height in one fell swoop.

 

They're actually not that difficult to disassemble and reassemble, once you've done it a time or three. I bought a spare set to practice on before I tore into mine. It's getting them set up again afterwards that can be a real PITA. On my machine, as of late, I've synced, synced again, tweaked mixtures, and something's still not quite right, because the idle's funky... but that's another thread.

 

Right after I posted this I saw another thread and my question was answered about the differant styles

 

I broke down and bought me a book today "The haynes motorcycle fuel systems techbook" It explains what happens from the airbox, all the way to exhast, including full detail of carbs. After taking apart mine and putting them back together, it got me curious.

Link to the book on amazon

 

I hope they corrected the misprint that has befuddled so many using Haynes as a reference for Carb Cleaning Hitachi Carbs.

They misprinted the values of the Main AIR Jet and Pilot AIR Jet, thereby causing many of those who removed them during cleaning to misplace them during reassembly.

When you've just "White-gloved" a set of Carbs and followed the procedure to the letter ... it's hard to imagine why the Bike won't run right ... particularly if you double-check your work and find everything is done according to the book.

Just remember:
The Main AIR Jet is Opposite from the Main FUEL Jet which is LARGER than the Pilot FUEL Jet.
Thus, ...
The Main AIR Jet is Smaller than the Pilot AIR Jet.
Smaller diameter Metering Port.

I'd go look that up in that Book you bought and see if they got it straight, yet!

 

Like Rick said it doesn't have to be running. In fact the carbs don't even have to be on the bike. But if you are checking with the carbs on the bike and the engine is not running then the petcock should be on "PRI". This way fuel will flow through the carbs. With the engine running "ON" or "RES" is fine.

 

Actually I havent found anything about hitachi in the whole book, its all mikuni and a few other brands. But they all work generally the same way, I have learned alot about what carbs are all about.