1. Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

Barn find pre-start tips?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by wifflebat, Jan 30, 2016.

  1. wifflebat

    wifflebat New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Northern Ireland
    Hi everyone
    I've introduced myself in the Hangout Lounge so thought it was time to progress to some technical stuff!
    Bought what I worked out to be an '83 650K Maxim recently that looks like this:
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3xu86su1zv4by1p/AABuH1liNrOZTrNUohvXhgJka?dl=0
    I have a caravan project that needs to be completed before I can make a proper start (wife's orders - she who must be obeyed) but I can start making lists, right? Surely that doesn't count ;)

    Obviously I can see a lot of wiring in my future but I'd be keen to know what, if anything, I can do to check out the condition and readiness of the engine before start spending time and money on parts etc. I have a bit of an engineering background but the internal combustion engine is not something that I've ever really had a chance to get my teeth into...hence this project (well, I started small with a non-runner dirt bike but this is a bit of a step up!). I've bought the Haynes manual (before I saw the pdf download thread-doh!) and the Basics Tech book but I guess they assume that all the bits are there and the bike is in a state to be run!

    Also, I see that parts aren't a problem via XJ4Ever but do they ship to the UK or does that make it prohibitively expensive?

    Thanks in advance for any advice!
     
  2. cds1984

    cds1984 Active Member

    Messages:
    902
    Likes Received:
    195
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    Hi,
    Do a compression test to see where you are to start with.
    Then... well you just gotta pull it all apart and put it back together all cleaned out and tuned, with all the old rubber bits fixed.
    Dead easy!
    Definitely use the service manual over the haynes manual, although the haynes has some good tips to avoid having to purchase 'special' tools for some jobs.

    XJ4Ever ships everywhere... depending on your exchange rate (ours sucks in AU) is where the pain may be.
    Gotta love the Maxim... very groovy! Good luck!
     
  3. wifflebat

    wifflebat New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Northern Ireland
    Thanks!
    By service manual, do you mean the 'supplementary service manual'? That's all I can see on eBay.
     
  4. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    13,199
    Likes Received:
    3,854
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Great North Woods
    that is just what it says it is a supplement . in my case I have a xj550rh manual and the supplement covers the basic differences of the maxim vs seca specs comsumer info wiring diagram

    haynes 650-750 free down load
    http://www.manualslib.com/manual/837861/Yamaha-Xj750.html
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2016
  5. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    19,613
    Likes Received:
    6,703
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The City of Seven Hills
  6. Steve M.

    Steve M. Member

    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Bedford co va
    Wow, it looks like the same guy cut my frame.I wonder if there is a serial frame cutter on the loose!!!back to your question take out the spark plugs and spray some kind of lubricant( I like PB blaster) it to the cylinders. Open the carbs all the way spin it over a few times and do the compression test then pour about a half a tea spoon of oil into each cylinder and check it again a big difference in pressure will tell you about rings and head gasket condition. For sure drain the oil it's nasty if it's been sitting very long.If the compression numbers look good I would pull the valve cover check valve clearance which I was just doing on mine B4 I took this break I would also take off the side covers and have a look at the clutch and stator and see how much gunk or hopefully the lack of gunk is in the engine.now disclaimer time.I am new to this site but what I just gave is a safe way to start any project that was not running when you found it.And one last thing have fun with it.putting a bike back on the road is almost as much fun as riding it.(if you do it right) 20160116_170014.jpg
     
  7. Steve M.

    Steve M. Member

    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Bedford co va
    And I almost forgot clean the carbs either once really well or as many times as want to half as*** sorry but its a fact no motorcycle will run properly with half clean carburetors ... Two great links on this site "the church of clean" and "something new something naked"will walk you through cleaning from start to finish ... however I would still go through the motor first...if it was me doing it. hope this helps.... Steve
     
  8. wifflebat

    wifflebat New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Northern Ireland
    Thanks all
    Words cannot describe how happy I was on finding this forum...once I'd worked out exactly what bike I'd bought!
    Steve- any tips on a seat to suit our hacked frames? The one I have is 80% duct tape!
    What exactly is PB Blaster. Is there a UK equivalent does anyone know? I've never heard of it. I've stripped a couple of carbs already (dirt bike and a generator) so I have a little experience there which should help.
    Thanks for the links too everyone. The Information Overload Hour thread was the link I saw when I really knew I was onto something here and this project might have legs!
    I'll have to keep my eyes open for a 650K service manual then. Preferably one where the postage isn't more than the manual itself.
     
  9. Steve M.

    Steve M. Member

    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Bedford co va
    My bad. I didn't look at where you are.PB Blaster is a penetrating oil you spray on rusty and stuck bolts.I don't know what you have over there....liquid wrench is another brand.really you could squirt automatic transmission fluid or something like that.the point is that motor is dry in the bores right now. and dry is bad.so lubricate it cuz lube is good.as far as a seat....I'm not sure after I get the frame squared away I probably will make a seat Pan with a cafe look to it above all the amount of knowledge on this site is incredible!While I have some general experience with motorcycles there are people on this site who actually know what they're doing. search the site. you get stuck ask. Some one will try and help they seem to enjoy it! I still can't believe your frame was cut exactly like mine and on another continent to boot 20160116_165739.jpg
     
  10. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,751
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Beaver Falls, PA
  11. wifflebat

    wifflebat New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Northern Ireland
    WD40 or a more oil-based spray I reckon would be the equivalent.
    Interesting link Polock, cheers!
     
  12. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    356
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    +1 to all the above. After you finish reading the Info Hour and recording the compression numbers start with the scheduled maintenance section of the Manual. As stated in the IOH $600 - $800 to make it road worthy (stock). Imo make it start and run right then do the aesthetics. All the help you'll need is at this site. Good luck with the build. You've got this. Varoom, Varoom!

    Gary H.
     
    Stumplifter and wifflebat like this.
  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    19,613
    Likes Received:
    6,703
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The City of Seven Hills
    WD-40 is not a penetrating oil, and nothing simmilar is.

    An inexpensive and excelent penetraing oil can be made from a mix of 50% automatic transmission fluid, and 50% acetone or other light solvent (mineral spirits, kerosene, naptha) if aceone is not avaliable.
     
    wifflebat likes this.
  14. wifflebat

    wifflebat New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Northern Ireland
    Love a good low-cost alternative!
     
  15. wifflebat

    wifflebat New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Northern Ireland
    Me again.
    I've been keeping an eye out for a Yamaha service manual and reckon it could be prudent to invest in a Haynes Electrical Manual too. Obviously with the age of the bike there is no need to get too modern so I was wondering if anyone could advise...1st edition (printed 1979) or 2nd edition (1993)?
    Thanks in advance!
     
  16. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,140
    Likes Received:
    175
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Colorado USA
    The electrical information in the Haynes XJ650/750 manual is sufficient. Good, accurate, wiring diagrams and generally good operating principles and troubleshooting procedures.
     

Share This Page