ignition stuck

I recently did some work on my carbs and when I went to start my bike the tumbler in the ignition would not budge.. Its also important to note that it looked like some sort of hardened dirt or weakened plastic was inside the key tumbler, and it was difficult to get the key in.. I tried to get as much stuff out of there as possible, but it still seemed like there was a little bit in there.. I got the key all the way in but It just wouldn't budge-- I even got out the spare key and tried that but nada.. Is there any way I can by-pass the ignition without taking anything apart? I'm super anxious to try my bike out but this ignition thing is killing me.. Any help would be appreciated!!

 

can you blow it out with air?

 

I sprayed some PB Blaster in the tumbler hole and it worked itself loose after about 2 minutes of fiddling with it..

 

Whoever invented PB blaster deserve"s to be a millionaire I love that stuff

 

yea but it stinks

 

Yea the PB Blaster worked like a charm, but now the ignition is loosey-goosey under the cluster and the bike cuts out when I'm driving down the road.. It still runs, but when I hit a bump the bike will die like if I were to turn the key off.. If I mess with it while I'm driving I can find the sweet spot and it will run better for a little while, then I'll hit a bump and it starts to cut out again.. I fiddle with the ignition and it will either get worse or get better, like there is a loose wire or connection behind the ignition... Any ideas?

 

I'm assuming you're wiggling the key if so obviously a new ignition switch is what you need.but a little wiring and a toggle switch.....I Can feel the purists cringe. No don't do that get the ignition switch and fix it right.

 

Before you do that check the switch connector for loose or corrosion. Sorry schould have told you that first.

 

Ok, I'll have to take it apart to see what's going on behind there... I wish I could see some pictures of one taken off a bike so I know what I'm getting into.. I'll report back as soon as I figure something out...

 

Are you wiggling the key or the whole switch?

 

The whole switch, the key fits snug in the ignition but the entire ignition assembly moves around easily now.. It seems like it has come loose behind the ignition, and that what's causing the problem...

 

I found this pic on eBay of an ignition and it looks like it has been puttied before.... I suspect that's what's going on with mine... Has anybody ever had success doing this? This guy wants $20 for the ignition and seat/helmet locks..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/351645...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D981349769109&chn=ps&lpid=82

 

It's probably the connection is loose or corroded. take it apart clean it and use some electrical grease so it doesn't happen again.

 

BTW that eBay switch looks broken to me

 

I wouldn't buy anything that was already broke and patched togather.
If your going to buy something for your bike at least check with Len first. He Great deals, and is great to deal with.
As steve said take it apart see whats going on and go from there.

 

just to let you know with 3 wire switches one wire is 12 volts from main fuse the other wire runs the tail lights and the third wire feeds the rest of the fuses.
so you can cut the wires off the switch get a toggle switch 20 to 30 amp 12 volts to one connector other 2 wires to the other connector and you have a temporary switch.
you could even use a house light switch

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Double-Pole-Toggle-Switch-GSW-14/100149490
with above switch 12 volts goes across middle 2 connectors and 1 wire to each of the end connectors

it just makes it easier to steal your bike

 

You can also run a switch like that hidden... Like behind a side cover and make your bike harder to steal

 

and pull the main fuse when you leave the bike alone

 

Or take the battery with you... that will slow em down. Ok that might be overkill

 

or pull the switch set up from the harness connector its lighter

 

Of course if you remove either wheel...... I'm going to stop now

 

And this comes after I assured someone selling a bike there was no sarcasm on this site..

 

You can.

Clean and lube the ignition switch

 

does any one know if will the wire and pcb and internal switch connector of a xj 550/ xj 650 switch fit into the xj 700 switch body?

 

I started taking my cluster apart and noticed that the base of the ignition was broken and I could see an exposed screw.. I image that's what was in the cylinder when I first noticed the crap coming from the keyhole. I would like to replace the ignition with a new one if possible, if not, I would consider a used one or the hidden switch idea.. For right now I've rigged it up with a piece of leather between the cluster and ignition-- I'm getting ready to give it a road test in a little bit..

 

Just back from the road test!!

My bike runs WAAAAAYY BETTER than I've ever had it running!! The leather wedged between the ignition and cluster fit so perfect, although I know that this is only a temporary fix... I also have a spare piece cut to keep with me in case it vibrates out-- At least I cat take the bike to class until I find a replacement ignition. As I said I'd like to find a New one but partzilla.com says they're obsolete.. Google pulled up an aftermarket one that's compatible with lots of other bike EXCEPT mine lol...

XJ550H, I'll see if I can't get a Yamaha parts dealer on the phone to check compatibility

 

start a conversation with chacal i'll bet he has one.
chacal can rebuild it for you too.